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My new x-members *PICTS*

xtrmjoe

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 3, 2004
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Location
Boonville, CA
http://coloradok5.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/2537/sort/1/cat/500/page/1
http://coloradok5.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/2538/sort/1/size/medium/cat/500/page/1
http://coloradok5.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/2539/sort/1/size/medium/cat/500/page/1
I clocled the t-case 4" and ditched the stock trans x-member. I had some issues in the past with t-case to trans bolts stripping out so I made a second x-member for the rear of the t-case. I dont have any body lift and did not want to cut the floor so I mounted the case about 2" lower than the frame rails and about .5" from the floor. I will be able to use a flat skid plate along the new x members except in one spot where the t-case hangs about .25" to low. Plus lowering the case gave me a much better rear driveline angle which is good because I have a lot of travel back there sky mfg flip, 56"'s, and revolvers.
 
Sweet! I like seein xmember pics. When I get back home thats one of my projects. Looks good.
 
hmmm, interesting. But what about when you rock that second crossmember or hit it with a log? Snap goes the tailshaft housing I think.
 
thats what i was thinking, looks good in theory but i think in practice it will get jacked up, i think a good idea would be to run a plate between the two x-members
 
I'd lose the rear mount and run plate across the gap. You shouldn't need a second mount unless you expect your tcase to take a hit. For simple hits the mount should absorb the blow, but a big one and its actually going to cause damage.
 
I have a poly trans mount on the front x-member for the transmission, and there is another transmission mount from some gm car directly under the tailshaft. Just finished it and plan to run a skid plate from the rear x-member all the way to the oil pan. The reason I went with 4x2 tube is because it is dam strong and my rig is under 4,000 when I take it out, no doors, top, tailgate, interior, dash, etc. I dont think I could put enough force on either of those to bend them with out bending the frame and snaping the rig in half. But only time will tell. I know a piece metal as a skid plate will stiffen it up a lot as well.
It snapped to many times before so that is why I decided to fab this up! The factory engeering just did not look that sturdy with the entire t-case hanging off the back of the trans being held by four bolts. And yes I ran the bar from the pass side to the eng. It did not take the hits well before. No matter what it was bad to begin with I am just trying to make it better.
How on earth do the guys running doublers with dual x-members not snap there ****? I know this 4x2 is stronger thatn some of the tube x-members I have seen.
Any Ideas on how thick of a skid plate to run?
Thanks for the imput keep it comming I am open to new Ideas on how to fix this ****ty problem.
 
85mudblazin said:
or you can do something like this
flat belly skid

That;s my set up that is in the link.:D

I too have thought of the t-case hanging off the rear with only the adapter bolts holding it. But nevr did anything about it. Maybe instead of bolting it down n the rear, you can just leave the botom part and have it act like a cradole for it to sit on?Just a thought.

And altho your exahust is much cleaner than mine, we had the same idea.:cool1:
 
How did you fit that skid with the case clocked?
Do you have body lift or did you have to cut the floor?
Did you clock it all the way up?
How is your rear driveline angle, hard to see from picts?

Have to admit as soon as I saw your picts I was impressed with the perfectly flat skid. How thick is the skid? How thick do you reccomend?
 
How did you fit that skid with the case clocked?Yup, clocked the case the same way you did.

Do you have body lift or did you have to cut the floor? Both, I have a 2" body lift and a had to cut the floor. You may not want it that high since the bolts that hold your passenger side seat will need to get cut out. If your seats are mounted to the cage then you don't have a problem. Some have said they were able to massage the floor with a hammer but i wasn't able to do that.

Did you clock it all the way up? Yes I clocked it all the way up and then raised the entire rear of the drivetrain up about another 1.5". That is how I got the completely flat belly.

How is your rear driveline angle, hard to see from picts? It's pretty harsh but it hasn't bound up or caused any problems yet. I don't do much street or high speed driving at all, just offroading.

Have to admit as soon as I saw your picts I was impressed with the perfectly flat skid.Thanks!!

How thick is the skid?The skid I have is 1/4inch diamond plate with the diamonds facing up.

How thick do you reccomend? You could probably get away with 3/16. This is just what the local yard had available in REMS.
 
Been thinking about what some of you have said about the tailshaft breaking on contact. I still disagree because on a hard enough impact I think that the mount would tear first. It is a small little mount from some gm car, and is rubber not poly. I dont think is actually strong enough to break the t-case but just strong enough to hold it in place and give it a little more support which is all I was looking for.
 
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