Yup 6.0 Gen IV LY6 or L96 is the current plan in my head. I do sometimes think about a 200k mile 5.3 with a Chinese turbo because that's the cool thing to do now.
CK5
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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
New oil pan is installed. Just need to install the crossmember and remember to fill it with oil otherwise the LS swap will happen sooner rather than later 
Yeah that doesn't look good. It could go for a while or it could be on the way out, you never know. But getting the crank turned and putting new bearings in might not be something you want to invest in at this point when you have a big block cross member.
I like your style of saying f it and run it till it blows up.
Good news everyone!
The new oil pan with it's baffling and bolt on pump pick up works flawlessly! I took it all the way to redline around a corner and oil pressure just keeps climbing to 75+ psi. At idle warm I'm still at about 25-30 psi. This is also with the 20w50 VR1 oil. Which strangely is now easier to find than conventional 10w40. I guess manufacturers are phasing out that blend?
Oh well I'll stick with 20w50 VR1 until it starts getting cold then I'll switch to 10w30 VR1.
The new oil pan with it's baffling and bolt on pump pick up works flawlessly! I took it all the way to redline around a corner and oil pressure just keeps climbing to 75+ psi. At idle warm I'm still at about 25-30 psi. This is also with the 20w50 VR1 oil. Which strangely is now easier to find than conventional 10w40. I guess manufacturers are phasing out that blend?
Oh well I'll stick with 20w50 VR1 until it starts getting cold then I'll switch to 10w30 VR1.
Glad you have oil pressure back. Hopefully it stays together!
So I changed the spark plugs the other day and I've noticed that it seems down on power and detonates at lower rpm higher load situations. I went with @folkenheath suggestion and installed NGK 6962 or BKR6E gapped at .045". The AC Delco #"5" I took out were definitely worn and had some build up on them. I figured fresh plugs wouldn't be a step backwards in performance. Maybe these plugs are too hot? Is my gap too big? Were the old ones worn out enough that I could run more advance? Is that a thing?
What is your timing set at? Do you have an MSD box?
What doesn't make sense is you went to a colder plug and now you are getting detonation? Delco has colder plugs with a lower number, NGK has colder plugs with a higher number.
Detonation is definitely not good if that's true. Is it pinging or is the unburnt fuel in the exhaust exploding because of fouled plugs with too large of gap? I would check your timing, I'd set it at 34 with the vacuum can disconnected at 4000 RPM. Then check the timing at other RPMs to see if you need to change the curve, make sure it isn't going higher at higher RPM.
What is your cam duration? Depending on your overlap it can foul plugs easier and a hotter plug may prevent that but may also limit timing and power at max torque, etc.
I'd check timing first, then check plugs and maybe reduce gap(especially if you don't have an ignition box), and if necessary I would change plugs, but only after checking the other two first.
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I don't have a box.
My timing is at 38*
I believe I set the advance with a light spring and a medium spring.
Cam duration is 219/227 @.050, 112 LSA.
It makes about 14-15" Hg at idle.
I need to verify my timing and likely swap to both medium springs on the advance.
Although many small blocks run good at 38 (I had the 388 locked solid at 38 for years), if you are getting pinging I would back it off to 34 until you get it running right again. It will still almost 50 at cruise that way. I think its a little tricker with your manual trans as you can run it at higher loads at lower RPM if you choose to, which is probably when it would be most likely to ping.
If you don't have an MSD box you might want to back the gap down to around .035" to help prevent fouling.
If you don't have an MSD box you might want to back the gap down to around .035" to help prevent fouling.
Well I finally got some time to mess with the ignition on the truck today. First thing I did was regap the plugs to .035". Then I pulled the cap and rotor to verify the advance springs. Turns out I have 2 medium springs. Here is the break down of what the springs mean for Pertronix:
I left the springs alone but verified everything is in good working order with no binding and free movement of the weights and rotor.
I test drove it like that with only the plug gap changed and it barely made a difference. Still detonating.
I came back home and had to wait until the baby was awake to put the timing light on it. When I finally did, 40° of total. Yikes definitely why I'm detonating. I turned it back to 36° and the engine is so much happier. No more pinging and it pulls really hard up top now. And down low I've got back all my low end I got when I first did the manifold swap. So I'm not sure how the timing changed itself but I'm also wondering if my fouled plugs covered it up for a while
I left the springs alone but verified everything is in good working order with no binding and free movement of the weights and rotor.
I test drove it like that with only the plug gap changed and it barely made a difference. Still detonating.
I came back home and had to wait until the baby was awake to put the timing light on it. When I finally did, 40° of total. Yikes definitely why I'm detonating. I turned it back to 36° and the engine is so much happier. No more pinging and it pulls really hard up top now. And down low I've got back all my low end I got when I first did the manifold swap. So I'm not sure how the timing changed itself but I'm also wondering if my fouled plugs covered it up for a while
Glad you got it working right again
Update on the Stepside:
Nothing major happening but the universal JEGs radiator that I had in there for many years (close to 10 now maybe?) has started to leak a little at the bottom corner where the tubes meet the sides. I figure this is a good opportunity to upgrade the whole system with dual fans that actually fit with a proper shroud. So I bought a package from Champion. The craftsmanship of their radiator is definitely better than the JEGs one that I have and the shroud is a nice piece. The JEGs radiator is a 2 row core and the Champion is a 3. Even with my "good enough" current fan on the 2 row radiator my only time keeping it cool was on the dunes doing extended full throttle high load low speed hill climbs. No such thing as over kill for a cooling system though.
My plan is to use the FAST ECU to control one fan just like it does currently and then have a manual switch on the other.
I'm also changing to a 195° thermostat. I currently have a 180° and the FAST seems to run smoother at the higher temp. Plus I'll have better heat in the cab.
Nothing major happening but the universal JEGs radiator that I had in there for many years (close to 10 now maybe?) has started to leak a little at the bottom corner where the tubes meet the sides. I figure this is a good opportunity to upgrade the whole system with dual fans that actually fit with a proper shroud. So I bought a package from Champion. The craftsmanship of their radiator is definitely better than the JEGs one that I have and the shroud is a nice piece. The JEGs radiator is a 2 row core and the Champion is a 3. Even with my "good enough" current fan on the 2 row radiator my only time keeping it cool was on the dunes doing extended full throttle high load low speed hill climbs. No such thing as over kill for a cooling system though.
My plan is to use the FAST ECU to control one fan just like it does currently and then have a manual switch on the other.
I'm also changing to a 195° thermostat. I currently have a 180° and the FAST seems to run smoother at the higher temp. Plus I'll have better heat in the cab.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Why do want to run one fan on a manual switch? Can the fast not handle the Voltage drop or amp load of both fans? Or it's just preference?
Second fan is on a relay?
Or what about one of those little controller for the second fan?
Second fan is on a relay?
Or what about one of those little controller for the second fan?
I'm not really sure, but it's supposed to be a direct fit replacement and use the factory rubber isolators.
The FAST EZ EFI 1.0 does 1 fan. I can have it trigger both relays at the same time and have it run both fans but I worry about the inrush current for my charging system. My current large single fan wired to high speed will dip the voltage and engine stumbles when it kicks on. The voltage recovers once the fan is up to speed though I think I've really pushed a v belt alternator as far as it can go. One dual fan at a time should be much easier to handle.
I'm not familiar with your charging setup however summit sells a replacement 140 amp alternator for V-belts around $100 IIRC. I run the alternator on my truck and a friends truck with twin fans triggered by EFI without any noticeable rpm dip or stumble for that matter. Then again both are big block trucks so they need the extra air movement.
I have a 94amp alternator for a mid 80s K30 big block. As far as I knew that was the largest stock one that could be had in a vbelt. I know the aftermarket has bigger options but I like having a lifetime local parts store warranty. It has come in handy multiple times.
Here's what my current radiator and fan setup looks like. The fan is from a late 80s Cougar/Third with a high and low speed, though I only have it wired to run on high.
Nice new setup!
If you are willing to swap the pulley with an impact gun you can still get that warranty and solve your voltage drop issue. The newer CS130 alternators are smaller housing but some have the same exact mounting pattern so they bolt right on with just a different bolt (the little bolt that threads into the alternator is metric). The long bolt that goes into the head is still the same. You can find 140A alternators from early/mid 90s vehicles just make sure it has the right bolt width and the 180 degree spread. I don't have a problem when both fans turn on at once. I did make a new charge cable from the alternator to battery, I think it was 6 gauge. Mine is a serpentine but it just swap the pulley and you are good.
One warning, don't get one with an internal plastic fan. The first one I had had a plastic internal fan and it exploded into pieces from RPM and then the alternator overheated and burned up, luckily I noticed the voltage drop and was able to get back to before it died (It happened on the dunes) the first trip out with the big block). When I took it off it was like a rattle when you shook it it and smelled like electrical fire. I replaced it with one from Napa and that one has been on there for about 10 years now.
Here is some more detailed info...
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/article/delco-cs130-alternators/
