The pump was quieter with the bypass regulator. I just need a larger return line to use it.
CK5
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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
The pump was quieter with the bypass regulator. I just need a larger return line to use it.
texas4x4rebel
1/2 ton status
fyi find a way to mount that fuel pump on some rubber isolators like msd uses for there ign boxes. that noise would drive me nuts even over the exaust.
Thats the loudest fuel pump I've heard what kinda pump is it. My walbro 255 isnt even that loud.
now that engine is just dirty sexy
I suppose with quality wires it won't be a problem, but the reason most plug wire clips keep them separated is so the wires don't arc back and forth between each other. I have had problems on back up generators where the wires were zip tied together.
Martin
Martin
A Little gift to myself
So I splurged a little and bought a new set of valve covers for 2 reasons:
1. I need the cast aluminum flange so that my valve covers will actually seal
2. These are just dirty blingin sexy
Also I arranged the plug wires better:
BTW the old valve covers are for sale
So I splurged a little and bought a new set of valve covers for 2 reasons:
1. I need the cast aluminum flange so that my valve covers will actually seal
2. These are just dirty blingin sexy
Also I arranged the plug wires better:
BTW the old valve covers are for sale
NICE!! Looking good.
I came so close to getting those exact same covers.
Thanks guys,
Once I get my H-Pipe in and the carb tuned right I will be taking this thing to the Dyno to really see what it can do. I am estimating about 300hp at the rear wheels with the 35s. If anyone has any advice on tuning Demon or Holley carbs give my sepparate thead in the garage a look over: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274344
Once I get my H-Pipe in and the carb tuned right I will be taking this thing to the Dyno to really see what it can do. I am estimating about 300hp at the rear wheels with the 35s. If anyone has any advice on tuning Demon or Holley carbs give my sepparate thead in the garage a look over: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274344
phreddei166
1/2 ton status
What is the adapter between carb and intake ? Demon's a square bolt pattern carb . What intake do you have ? Maybe has to do with tuning problem ?
Its not an adapter, its a 2" spacer. Its a 4 bore holed spacer with the swirly things inside. Its supposed to help improve air velocity into the intake. I don't need it but I just left it on when I swapped the intake over to this engine. I don't think its the root of my crackling problem, I am thinking that its just the mufflers. Especially since Pypes puts X-pipes in every exhaust kit they have so there must be a reason. So My H-pipe in theory should eliminate it.
Have you tried to find a vacuum leak by checking with a propane source?
Just be sure not to light it, and make sure it don't get sucked in through the top of the carb. point the propane torch around any potential leak, and listen to rpm.
Just be sure not to light it, and make sure it don't get sucked in through the top of the carb. point the propane torch around any potential leak, and listen to rpm.
Not sure I'd like to blow propane all over a running engine... Also the fan would blow it away before you could notice any difference.
Don't vacuum leaks only affect the idle? Once the throttle plates are open the vacuum drops anyway, unless the leak is significant enough to lean the mixture.
Did some truck things
I did some truck like things today and had a blast:
So a basic shortbed with soft springs doesn't make the best tow rig, but it handles my boat no problem.
I did some truck like things today and had a blast:
So a basic shortbed with soft springs doesn't make the best tow rig, but it handles my boat no problem.
Recon!
Maniac
How dare you use a truck for it's actual intended use! 
Well a little update on the truck and the new engine:
I have just rounded the 3000 mile mark on the new engine and its running better than ever! I believe I have found the root cause of the hesitation and occasional idle surge I've had since new. I figured out that the throttle shaft in the base plate has some play in it causing air to leak past as I change throttle input. This gives me a severe lean condition that I had been overcompensating for with the biggest possible squirter/cam/pump setup. And of course Jegs doesnt sell the correct baseplate for my carb.
But still with or without the throttle shaft leak, the thing still hauls ass and sounds really good while doing it!
On a side note, I broke my rear lock right. Good thing its still under warentee. All the holes for the locking pins broke and the gear teath shreaded. There was a lot of metal in that oil...The funny thing is that now I've been driving with the spider gears back in, the thing is so much more street friendly as in I can actually turn into a parking spot in one motion now!
Also I just put my carpet back into the truck. Its nothing fancy its just a rectangular piece of bulk carpeting cut to fit. But I definately forgot how much it insulates from the cold and from road noise. Definately a lot more comfortable to drive now.
But I do have another alternator problem... It just stops charging randomly unless you stip all the load off of it and sometimes it comes back other times you have tap on it with a hammer to have it keep working until you get where you're going. I'm gonna have to figure that one out. Thats the last summit racing brand alternator I buy.
One more, I did also just intall a new power steering pump and I must say that my steering has never felt lighter! Even with the stock steering setup with 35"s while parked I can now turn lock to lock with one finger.
I have just rounded the 3000 mile mark on the new engine and its running better than ever! I believe I have found the root cause of the hesitation and occasional idle surge I've had since new. I figured out that the throttle shaft in the base plate has some play in it causing air to leak past as I change throttle input. This gives me a severe lean condition that I had been overcompensating for with the biggest possible squirter/cam/pump setup. And of course Jegs doesnt sell the correct baseplate for my carb.
But still with or without the throttle shaft leak, the thing still hauls ass and sounds really good while doing it!
On a side note, I broke my rear lock right. Good thing its still under warentee. All the holes for the locking pins broke and the gear teath shreaded. There was a lot of metal in that oil...
The funny thing is that now I've been driving with the spider gears back in, the thing is so much more street friendly as in I can actually turn into a parking spot in one motion now! Also I just put my carpet back into the truck. Its nothing fancy its just a rectangular piece of bulk carpeting cut to fit. But I definately forgot how much it insulates from the cold and from road noise. Definately a lot more comfortable to drive now.
But I do have another alternator problem... It just stops charging randomly unless you stip all the load off of it and sometimes it comes back other times you have tap on it with a hammer to have it keep working until you get where you're going. I'm gonna have to figure that one out. Thats the last summit racing brand alternator I buy.
One more, I did also just intall a new power steering pump and I must say that my steering has never felt lighter! Even with the stock steering setup with 35"s while parked I can now turn lock to lock with one finger.
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
Nice~! 
Just so everyone knows, never buy a summit racing alternator. I went out and bought a lifetime warrenteed advanced auto delco/remy alternator for $94. The thing charges like no other and has more charging capability at 100amps than the summit unit at 94 amps. Even if my idle is low I dont lose the charge until it comes back up to rpm.
