supersize75k5 said:truck looks clean, needs some paint on that frame though
Ya thought I could get that in before the winter, but I guess I didn't
. So I'll do it in the spring. 
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
Ya thought I could get that in before the winter, but I guess I didn't
. So I'll do it in the spring. 
Chrisblazzer89
1/2 ton status
Now those new rims and tires make your truck look BADA$$!!!!!Chevy305 said:
But you do need paint on that frame so when you do it in the winter call me I'll help you out
why not just run a 2" body lift all around? do you need that 1/4 inch more?
truck looks awesome.
truck looks awesome.
gmc4cw said:
Well maybe...
I hate tires rubbing, and I'm not hacking my new fenders. Besides I guess you could say I hacked my old fenders
. But not that a 1/4in will make that much of a difference. I'm still not happy with how the body mounts are set up, but being that it is 15 degrees outside and I have school tomorrow, I can't do anything about it now. I think fixing the body mounts would be a great spring break project. So then at that point I plan on cutting the 3" blocks holding the bed to level it off with the cab, and getting rid of those hockey pucks and replacing them with ORD's 1" body lift kit.
But anyway the body mounts are still set up better than they were before. (F*CKIN' hockey pucks)
why go all the way down to a 1"? just get a 2" kit and don't worry about cutting blocks down. for less then $100 you should get a complete kit with all the blocks and bolts.
Were can I get a 2" body lift kit?gmc4cw said:
anywhere. flip open a four wheeling magazine. search the web. here are a few places I have dealt with.
www.stylinconcepts.com I have bought lots of stuff from these guys
www.truckperformance.com I have bought some stuff from these guys also including the body lift that is on my 2000 sierra
www.4wheelparts.com everybody complains about these guys but I bought a lift kit from them and had no problems.
any local speed shop can also get you one. The body lift that is on my 83 came from Pokes performance. I would send you the 2" that is on the truck I am parting but not all the blocks are good. some have cracks.
Or get a machine shop to make you ones out of aluminum. you can make them any height you want. still keep it 2-1/4" all they have to do is cut some chunks of round stock, drill holes in them and machine the ends down to whatever length you want. the plastic ones will be cheaper and come with the bolts.
www.stylinconcepts.com I have bought lots of stuff from these guys
www.truckperformance.com I have bought some stuff from these guys also including the body lift that is on my 2000 sierra
www.4wheelparts.com everybody complains about these guys but I bought a lift kit from them and had no problems.
any local speed shop can also get you one. The body lift that is on my 83 came from Pokes performance. I would send you the 2" that is on the truck I am parting but not all the blocks are good. some have cracks.
Or get a machine shop to make you ones out of aluminum. you can make them any height you want. still keep it 2-1/4" all they have to do is cut some chunks of round stock, drill holes in them and machine the ends down to whatever length you want. the plastic ones will be cheaper and come with the bolts.
Thanks! This place has a 2" body lift for $84.63! 
http://www.truckperformance.com/product.page/Lift+Kits/Lift+Kits+-+Body/0/0/0/PFA512/CHEVROLET/1985/C%7EK+10+Pickup
http://www.truckperformance.com/product.page/Lift+Kits/Lift+Kits+-+Body/0/0/0/PFA512/CHEVROLET/1985/C%7EK+10+Pickup
supersize75k5 said:truck looks clean, needs some paint on that frame though
Well speaking of painting the frame, I just got a package in the mail yesterday from Eastwood. I got their whole 3 stage chassis restoration kit. It has rust converter, rust encapsolator, and chassis black paint.
here's a link: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16383&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=16383
I thought I'd go a different route than the usual POR 15 or Rustbullet.
I plan on removing the bed, coating the frame and fixing the body mount situation all in one fell swoop. It will probably happen over my spring break.
Now that I have had the truck with the paint on it, I have noticed a few imperfections in it, but nothing you could see if you weren't really looking closely.
But anyway I still LOVE how the truck came out, and the body is SO SmOoTh! I love to just run my hand over it.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
one more option...
what I personally would do, get another frame, as clean as you can find, clean it, paint it, detail it, new bolts, go though the brake lines, fuel lines, add some steering support. get it ready first.. then yank your truack apart
clean the drive train, paint it, replace water pump, fuel pump, alternator and starter, new radiator, clean and paint intake, get exaust done..have it jet coated. go clean up and replace all bushings, paint the springs, clean up your wiring if ya want, new body mounts
just a little extra time
what I personally would do, get another frame, as clean as you can find, clean it, paint it, detail it, new bolts, go though the brake lines, fuel lines, add some steering support. get it ready first.. then yank your truack apart
clean the drive train, paint it, replace water pump, fuel pump, alternator and starter, new radiator, clean and paint intake, get exaust done..have it jet coated. go clean up and replace all bushings, paint the springs, clean up your wiring if ya want, new body mounts
just a little extra time
supersize75k5 said:one more option...
just a little extra time
and a little extra $$$$$
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
oh yea, thats the part that always sneaks up on your dreams
Back 1/2 of Frame restoration!
Ok So a little update of what I've been doing on my April vacation!
The plan is/was to remove the bed, replace the plywood in the bed, undercoat the bed, undercoat the frame, cut down the body lift blocks to make the bed and cab line up, fix the screwy body lift, replace the steering stabilizer, and rear brake line that got pinched. The original plan was to start on monday of my vacation and work at nice and easy pace on it till it was finished, but mother nature had other plans.
After the crappy weather cleared up by Thursday I was able to start in on the truck and remove the bed. After removing the bed I power washed the entire back 1/2 of the frame, axel, suspention, and the bed. When I tipped the bed up the plywood basically fell out. I guess I need to replace that! I also want to Herculine the bed, but I'm not going to have time for that so I will do it at another time. Oh well...
Time for some pics!!
Here is the frame after being power washed:
The bed is off!
That plywood has had it!
Here is the power washerI borrowed:
The bed tipped up after the plywood fell out:
For those who think the roll bar is out dated you'll be happy:
The roll bar was actually holding water inside it! After I drained the nasty ass water out look at what came out next:
Ok now that I got it all apart and washed I started on the first stage of the chassis coating that I got from Eastwood. The link is in the quote further up for more info about it.
For the first stage is the 2 part rust converter. The rust converter is some serious stuff that smell pretty bad and I highly suggest wearing gloves for all 3 stages especially the first stage. To apply the rust converter you have to mix the two parts together at a 4:1 ratio, it can be brushed or sprayed once mixed. I choose to brush for simplicity. I only needed to apply the rust converter to the worst parts on the frame being the old spare tire holder and where I had a crack in the frame above the passenger side shock mount that my neighbor welded up for me a while back it just wasn't coated propperly to begine with. The rust converter mixed into a purple-ish color but after it has had time to set it appears as a clear glaze. Very tough stuff! Check out the pictures:
The pictures don't really give you a good clue as to how serious this stuff is! I don't think it will be coming off any time soon!
Ok so now after I got the worst parts coated with the rust converter, I could move onto stage 2 of the kit: Rust Encapsolator. I love the rust encapsolator! It goes on so easily and has great coverage. I did 2 medium coats to the fame and bed with the stuff and ended up using nearly all of the 3 cans supplied with the kit. So if you want to do an entire frame with this kit I suggest getting 2 kits. The finish it gives is a flat black finish I think it looked very good with the flat black, but there is still the 3rd stage which is satin black which comes later. But anyway check out the pics of the 2nd stage:
This is a first for me, the truck actually fits in the garage without the bed! And it was nicer working in a controlled environment with things like lighting and privacy because I worked on the truck until about 3:00am...
Oh and that space heater sucked balls it did Nothing at all!
Here is the frame partially complete with first coat of stage 2 at around midnight:
Continued...
Chevy305 said:
Well speaking of painting the frame, I just got a package in the mail yesterday from Eastwood. I got their whole 3 stage chassis restoration kit. It has rust converter, rust encapsolator, and chassis black paint.
here's a link: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16383&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=16383
I thought I'd go a different route than the usual POR 15 or Rustbullet.
I plan on removing the bed, coating the frame and fixing the body mount situation all in one fell swoop. It will probably happen over my spring break.
Ok So a little update of what I've been doing on my April vacation!
The plan is/was to remove the bed, replace the plywood in the bed, undercoat the bed, undercoat the frame, cut down the body lift blocks to make the bed and cab line up, fix the screwy body lift, replace the steering stabilizer, and rear brake line that got pinched. The original plan was to start on monday of my vacation and work at nice and easy pace on it till it was finished, but mother nature had other plans.
After the crappy weather cleared up by Thursday I was able to start in on the truck and remove the bed. After removing the bed I power washed the entire back 1/2 of the frame, axel, suspention, and the bed. When I tipped the bed up the plywood basically fell out
. I guess I need to replace that! I also want to Herculine the bed, but I'm not going to have time for that so I will do it at another time. Oh well... Time for some pics!!
Here is the frame after being power washed:
The bed is off!
That plywood has had it!
Here is the power washerI borrowed:
The bed tipped up after the plywood fell out:
For those who think the roll bar is out dated you'll be happy:
The roll bar was actually holding water inside it! After I drained the nasty ass water out look at what came out next:
Ok now that I got it all apart and washed I started on the first stage of the chassis coating that I got from Eastwood. The link is in the quote further up for more info about it.
For the first stage is the 2 part rust converter. The rust converter is some serious stuff that smell pretty bad and I highly suggest wearing gloves for all 3 stages especially the first stage. To apply the rust converter you have to mix the two parts together at a 4:1 ratio, it can be brushed or sprayed once mixed. I choose to brush for simplicity. I only needed to apply the rust converter to the worst parts on the frame being the old spare tire holder and where I had a crack in the frame above the passenger side shock mount that my neighbor welded up for me a while back it just wasn't coated propperly to begine with. The rust converter mixed into a purple-ish color but after it has had time to set it appears as a clear glaze. Very tough stuff! Check out the pictures:
The pictures don't really give you a good clue as to how serious this stuff is! I don't think it will be coming off any time soon!
Ok so now after I got the worst parts coated with the rust converter, I could move onto stage 2 of the kit: Rust Encapsolator. I love the rust encapsolator! It goes on so easily and has great coverage. I did 2 medium coats to the fame and bed with the stuff and ended up using nearly all of the 3 cans supplied with the kit. So if you want to do an entire frame with this kit I suggest getting 2 kits. The finish it gives is a flat black finish I think it looked very good with the flat black, but there is still the 3rd stage which is satin black which comes later. But anyway check out the pics of the 2nd stage:
This is a first for me, the truck actually fits in the garage without the bed! And it was nicer working in a controlled environment with things like lighting and privacy because I worked on the truck until about 3:00am...
Oh and that space heater sucked balls it did Nothing at all!
Here is the frame partially complete with first coat of stage 2 at around midnight:
Continued...
Back 1/2 of fame restoration continued...
Continued...
Close up after the first coat:
Here is my side step coated in the rust encapsolator:
I took these pictures in the morning:
here is the spare tire thingy:
Ok now from here I moved onto stage 3 of the kit: Chassis Black. The chassis black that I ordered was satin because I didn't want a full gloss frame. Chassis black seals all the previous layers together and gives it all UV protection and it has a slight texture to it. Several light coats are the best way to go with the Chassis black. Enough of my jibber jabber here are the pics:
This is about where I finished friday. But there is more to come!!
To come:
- Cut down lift blocks
- New plywood for the bed
- fix screwy body mounts
- replace brake line
- remount bed
P.S.
I removed the shock boots to paint around them and found a lot of crap hidded inside the shock boot. So later I will cut the boots off...
Continued...
Close up after the first coat:
Here is my side step coated in the rust encapsolator:
I took these pictures in the morning:
here is the spare tire thingy:
Ok now from here I moved onto stage 3 of the kit: Chassis Black. The chassis black that I ordered was satin because I didn't want a full gloss frame. Chassis black seals all the previous layers together and gives it all UV protection and it has a slight texture to it. Several light coats are the best way to go with the Chassis black. Enough of my jibber jabber here are the pics:
This is about where I finished friday. But there is more to come!!
To come:
- Cut down lift blocks
- New plywood for the bed
- fix screwy body mounts
- replace brake line
- remount bed
P.S.
I removed the shock boots to paint around them and found a lot of crap hidded inside the shock boot. So later I will cut the boots off...
tomford
1/2 ton status
Wow you've been busy, looks awsome!
Tom
Tom
MuddinManny
Banned
Glenn,
First, you are awesome dude! That is one fantastic job! I wish I had those skills to do what you did!
Now, can I ask you to explain what you mean about "cutting lift blocks down"? I sincerely hope you are not thinking of cutting the lift blocks on the axle. Man, if so, don't do it. Get new blocks. Too much room for a mistake that could spell disaster. JMHO.
If it's about the lift blocks for the bed, I hope you've invested in some regular lift block and the hockey pucks went to the penalty box.
Lookin' good! With a truck that nice, will you still take it in the MUD?
Manny
First, you are awesome dude! That is one fantastic job! I wish I had those skills to do what you did!
Now, can I ask you to explain what you mean about "cutting lift blocks down"? I sincerely hope you are not thinking of cutting the lift blocks on the axle. Man, if so, don't do it. Get new blocks. Too much room for a mistake that could spell disaster. JMHO.
If it's about the lift blocks for the bed, I hope you've invested in some regular lift block and the hockey pucks went to the penalty box.
Lookin' good! With a truck that nice, will you still take it in the MUD?
Manny
MuddinManny said:
Don't you worry! I really want to go wheelin again actually but I got to replace the u-joint on my front drive shaft first. I already have the part I just need the time to do it. Maybe next weekend?
And Manny you have the skills to do this! Believe me I saw what you did with your D60.
To clearify, the lift blocks I refer to are the body lift blocks. Originally they were 3" kit but since my mechanical clutch didn't allow me to go the full 3" I had to improvise the get the truck back on the road so new hockey pucks went in along with a 3/8 inch solid steel spacer under the body and I had to put the 3" body lift blocks under the bed so it made the bed a little more than an inch higher than the cab... So now that I have some time to fix the fubars I thought i'd take advantage.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
very nice work very very nice
as for the shock boots leave em off, they like to trap crap
as for the shock boots leave em off, they like to trap crap
so did you get a complete 2" body lift kit? Plastic body lift pucks suck to cut. they look like more crap then a standard one and its hard to get the cut perfectly straight.
If you buy a kit it will come with all the bolts too.
If you buy a kit it will come with all the bolts too.
