sounds like a plan to me...and the 305HO will live on, YES!
I couldnt just not have a 305 anymore, I mean what would i do about my username?
If the crank is bad, then it is time for a 383.
My thoughts exactly
CK5
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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
I couldnt just not have a 305 anymore, I mean what would i do about my username?
My thoughts exactly
Update
Ok there is quite a bit that is going on here to my truck. Pics will be coming up soon of the new updates.
First off I plan on bringing the 91 350 I bought to a machine shop tomorrow morning to have them inspect the block and crank. Hopefully I can get a good quote on the machine work. If its cheap enough then I am going to procede with building the 350 for 400+hp. If its too much then I am buying the Yearone crate engine seen here:
and here:
To support this near double the power boost, I am converting a 14bsf to 6lugs so I can keep my wheels. I also have a lock right in the mail for it. As well I plan on putting the lock right in my rear 10bolt into my front 10bolt when I replace a busted axel ujoint. I also plan to finally weld in my frame steering box brace to repair the cracks that have developed there despite the use of the bolt on frame brace.
Also I just installed a new stereo system that kicks ass! Kenwood head unit with 4.5" and 6.5" pairs of Polk audio speakers.
As far as the body goes:
I am headed out to Charlton, MA to pickup a perfect condition stepside bed. No more bed rust! I plan to fully coat every nook nad cranny on it.
In addition, I just picked up a perfect factory passengerside front fender to replace thecheap chinese one that is falling appart. Also I plan on eventually getting a cowl intuction hood just because they are badass...
All this body work will be done by me. I just picked up some body work supplies and a real slick Eastwood paint gun that I plan on testing on that fender. If it comes out good then I will paint up the bed, hood when I get it, and interior of the truck. I just hope that the paint I get is a match. Acording to Eastwood's paint chip chart, my paint looks to be a 98% match to Pure White so we'll see.
Stay tuned for pictures and lots more write ups
Ok there is quite a bit that is going on here to my truck. Pics will be coming up soon of the new updates.
First off I plan on bringing the 91 350 I bought to a machine shop tomorrow morning to have them inspect the block and crank. Hopefully I can get a good quote on the machine work. If its cheap enough then I am going to procede with building the 350 for 400+hp. If its too much then I am buying the Yearone crate engine seen here:
and here:
To support this near double the power boost, I am converting a 14bsf to 6lugs so I can keep my wheels. I also have a lock right in the mail for it. As well I plan on putting the lock right in my rear 10bolt into my front 10bolt when I replace a busted axel ujoint. I also plan to finally weld in my frame steering box brace to repair the cracks that have developed there despite the use of the bolt on frame brace.
Also I just installed a new stereo system that kicks ass! Kenwood head unit with 4.5" and 6.5" pairs of Polk audio speakers.
As far as the body goes:
I am headed out to Charlton, MA to pickup a perfect condition stepside bed. No more bed rust! I plan to fully coat every nook nad cranny on it.
In addition, I just picked up a perfect factory passengerside front fender to replace thecheap chinese one that is falling appart. Also I plan on eventually getting a cowl intuction hood just because they are badass...
All this body work will be done by me. I just picked up some body work supplies and a real slick Eastwood paint gun that I plan on testing on that fender. If it comes out good then I will paint up the bed, hood when I get it, and interior of the truck. I just hope that the paint I get is a match. Acording to Eastwood's paint chip chart, my paint looks to be a 98% match to Pure White so we'll see.
Stay tuned for pictures and lots more write ups
Last edited by a moderator:
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Have you thought about a 6.0L? They can't be touched by 2nd gens especially downlow... variable timing which means it'll advance/retard timing automatically depending on the rpm....
In stock form they are over 300 ft lbs at 1000rpm.... a little work and they are just plain beasts.
You can get one with under 40k on it complete for around 1500. They are rated at 325-345hp but have shown that they are rated conservativly on the dyno(the H.O./vortec max is 345hp due to higher compression which means you'll have to run premium).
I think RyanB took a Lq4(325hp version) and put headers on it and got 380hp and nearly 440ft lbs of tq. That's just headers... imagine what a cam and minor head work could do.
When it's all said and done you can have a 430hp 460+ ft lbs motor for 3500 or so. The key is the low end grunt though... like I said, no gen II can touch those things down low.
In stock form they are over 300 ft lbs at 1000rpm.... a little work and they are just plain beasts.
You can get one with under 40k on it complete for around 1500. They are rated at 325-345hp but have shown that they are rated conservativly on the dyno(the H.O./vortec max is 345hp due to higher compression which means you'll have to run premium).
I think RyanB took a Lq4(325hp version) and put headers on it and got 380hp and nearly 440ft lbs of tq. That's just headers... imagine what a cam and minor head work could do.
When it's all said and done you can have a 430hp 460+ ft lbs motor for 3500 or so. The key is the low end grunt though... like I said, no gen II can touch those things down low.
I've gone back and forth on it. I think it would end up costing too much in computer tuning and conversion parts including a complete over haul of my fuel system. A gen I bolts right in.
But it would be sooo bad ass...
If I dont do one in this truck, then I am putting a 5.3L in my s10 at some point.
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Umm... GenII = LT1/LT4.
Every other SBC is GenI, GenIII, or GenIV. Our trucks have GenI engines.
GenIII's (6.0L = LQ4/LQ9) don't have variable valve timing, only the GenIV's (6.0L = LY6/L76).
Sorry to butt in... as you were.
Every other SBC is GenI, GenIII, or GenIV. Our trucks have GenI engines.
GenIII's (6.0L = LQ4/LQ9) don't have variable valve timing, only the GenIV's (6.0L = LY6/L76).
Sorry to butt in... as you were.
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Ok pictures of all the new shiny and not so shiny stuff...
Paint gun and paint:
Here's why I need the new bed:
The New bed:
Like how I transported it?
The factory fender off of a Blazer:
The 14bsf:
The Engine:
Check out the crank and bearings, pretty messedup...
Paint gun and paint:
Here's why I need the new bed:
The New bed:
Like how I transported it?
The factory fender off of a Blazer:
The 14bsf:
The Engine:
Check out the crank and bearings, pretty messedup...
You apparently haven't seen bad bearings?
Martin
Martin
Thats a clean step side you picked up.
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Nice bed.... where did you get it? I'm liking the tailpipes even though they'll probably get munched on the trail.
ya I'm definately not keeping the tailpipes. The whole bed pan there was done very poorly. That will be the first thing I do is lop that thing off.
Slapperbar
Retired Navy NDT Examiner
At least the swap from GMC to Chevy on the bed will be really easy.
14bolt SF
Update:
The engine has sorta taken a back seat, or more or less just pushed over a little so I can concentrate on my 14bsf 6 lug conversion. I have been collecting the parts for this over the years and now I finally nutted up and bought the axel. I will definately need it too when I put some 400hp or so to it.
The axel I bought is a 86 14bsf out of a K20. I got factory drum backing plates and drums from an early 90's C2500. The axel shafts had to be ordered since the ones I grabbed were a 1/2" too short.
Sooo close. Unfortunately there are no exact length 6 lug axel shafts for this conversion so either they are too short and won't work or stick out about a 1/2" over the factory 8 lug shafts. So thats where I am at now, my new axel shafts are a 1/2" too long and now I need to space the backing plates with some machined spacers that I have on order. So now the waiting is due to the spacers/bolts on special order along with the 1/2" wheel studs and lug nuts, and the fact that I still can't get this last wheel bearing out...
Pictures:
Ya its pretty messed up. I don't have a dremel or anything small enough to get in there... I'll figure it out eventually... Oh ya btw I broke a slide hammer in the process so far.
The axel as it sits now
The new shafts (only one shown)
That gap is just too much unfortunately...
The part that is fustrating is that is was supposed to be a quick project and it has dragged out for almost 3 weeks now. But I have all new brakes, new pinion seal, crush sleave, and pinion bearings. Also it seems that my driveshaft bolts up to the yoke. I tested it on an old u joint and its a positive match so now conversion joints needed.
Update:
The engine has sorta taken a back seat, or more or less just pushed over a little so I can concentrate on my 14bsf 6 lug conversion. I have been collecting the parts for this over the years and now I finally nutted up and bought the axel. I will definately need it too when I put some 400hp or so to it.
The axel I bought is a 86 14bsf out of a K20. I got factory drum backing plates and drums from an early 90's C2500. The axel shafts had to be ordered since the ones I grabbed were a 1/2" too short.
Sooo close. Unfortunately there are no exact length 6 lug axel shafts for this conversion so either they are too short and won't work or stick out about a 1/2" over the factory 8 lug shafts. So thats where I am at now, my new axel shafts are a 1/2" too long and now I need to space the backing plates with some machined spacers that I have on order. So now the waiting is due to the spacers/bolts on special order along with the 1/2" wheel studs and lug nuts, and the fact that I still can't get this last wheel bearing out...Pictures:
Ya its pretty messed up. I don't have a dremel or anything small enough to get in there... I'll figure it out eventually... Oh ya btw I broke a slide hammer in the process so far.
The axel as it sits now
The new shafts (only one shown)
That gap is just too much unfortunately...
The part that is fustrating is that is was supposed to be a quick project and it has dragged out for almost 3 weeks now. But I have all new brakes, new pinion seal, crush sleave, and pinion bearings. Also it seems that my driveshaft bolts up to the yoke. I tested it on an old u joint and its a positive match so now conversion joints needed.
mmm fresh paint...
1 coating a quick wire wheeling
2 coats rust bullet
1 coating a quick wire wheeling
2 coats rust bullet
I love that clean shiney look!
I wish I took more time with mine.
I wish I took more time with mine.Dr. Morgenstern
Registered Member
Just put a 6lug 14SF in my 97 Tahoe. Nice peace of mind isn't it?
update
Update!
Axel is complete! Should be going in on sunday. It is damn sexy too
So the finishing harware I got is longer bolts and machined spacers for the backing plates. Unfortunately the outer diameter of the spacers was just too big so they didn't sit flat. I used my bench grinder and ground a small notch in them, now they all sit perfectly flat. Plus the brake lines I got are from InLine Tube. Amazing quality only they dont make a set of lines for a 14bsf so the lines I have are for a 14bff which took some slight tweeking to get in place.
As it sits now the wheel studs are pressed in, axel shafts are in, backing plates torqued, lockright is all setup, and cover sealed.
pictures:
The wheel studs I am using are ARP high strength 1/2" to match the front.
Update!
Axel is complete! Should be going in on sunday. It is damn sexy too
So the finishing harware I got is longer bolts and machined spacers for the backing plates. Unfortunately the outer diameter of the spacers was just too big so they didn't sit flat. I used my bench grinder and ground a small notch in them, now they all sit perfectly flat. Plus the brake lines I got are from InLine Tube. Amazing quality only they dont make a set of lines for a 14bsf so the lines I have are for a 14bff which took some slight tweeking to get in place.
As it sits now the wheel studs are pressed in, axel shafts are in, backing plates torqued, lockright is all setup, and cover sealed.
pictures:
The wheel studs I am using are ARP high strength 1/2" to match the front.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
looks badass. awesome job
!!!!
!!!!
NEK5
3/4 ton status
loooks perty kid!
update
Update:
Ok so I had a guy call from Craigslist on friday to buy my old bed, he said he'd come down sunday with money in hand. So I thought oh **** I better get that bed off. Took me all friday night to get the bolts out since I used carige bolts in the plywood. Over the years the wood got soft and now every single bolt spun and since the bolt heads were flush the only solution I could come up with was to weld nuts on top of the bolts. It work but reuined my fancy stainless carige bolts. So saturday night I finally got the bed off. Sunday rolls around and the guy never shows...
So I spend all this time to take the bed off and I never hear from him. Oh well at least now I can do some stuff I needed to on my rear frame. And I found some other things that were wrong too. I found a couple cracks at the passengerside shock mount, found my rear cab body mounts nearly totaly collapsed, found some nasty scale under the cab above the gas tank which I dropped to replace the sender.
bed removed:
With the bed off it was much easier to finish boxing the rear 6" or so of the frame on the passenger side so strengthen for my tow hooks:
Here is the cracks welded back up. Apparently I was welding too hot and burned right through the fame in that little hole you see there.
I guess I need some new tailpipes...
Gas tank with new sender:
Adn the crusty parts of the cab and collapsed body mounts:
Some more crusty stuff:
oh and some quick rust bullet on the bare steel:
So from here, I plan on replacing the rear body mounts, removing as much scale as possible and then rust bulleting the **** out of the underside of the cab. If I have to then I will replace some metal which means most likely... If I have enough rust bullit then paint the gas tank with it because I like silver gas tanks. On the cab and frame, I plan on just top coating the silver with some satin rustolium or my Eastwood Zinc-Phoshate which is a bad ass paint. Then, swap the new rear axel in, slap the gas tank back in, then prep and paint the new bed (easier said then done...), then put it back on. Then take the locker out of my rear 10bolt and put it in the front with a new axel shaft that needs replacing. Oh and then paint my new front fender... oh ya and replace my A-pillars... oh ya and weld in the steering box brace...
wow i have a lot on my plate...
EDIT: oh ya nd finish building the 355 I have at the machine shop now...
Update:
Ok so I had a guy call from Craigslist on friday to buy my old bed, he said he'd come down sunday with money in hand. So I thought oh **** I better get that bed off. Took me all friday night to get the bolts out since I used carige bolts in the plywood. Over the years the wood got soft and now every single bolt spun and since the bolt heads were flush the only solution I could come up with was to weld nuts on top of the bolts. It work but reuined my fancy stainless carige bolts. So saturday night I finally got the bed off. Sunday rolls around and the guy never shows...
bed removed:
With the bed off it was much easier to finish boxing the rear 6" or so of the frame on the passenger side so strengthen for my tow hooks:
Here is the cracks welded back up. Apparently I was welding too hot and burned right through the fame in that little hole you see there.
I guess I need some new tailpipes...
Gas tank with new sender:
Adn the crusty parts of the cab and collapsed body mounts:
Some more crusty stuff:
oh and some quick rust bullet on the bare steel:
So from here, I plan on replacing the rear body mounts, removing as much scale as possible and then rust bulleting the **** out of the underside of the cab. If I have to then I will replace some metal which means most likely... If I have enough rust bullit then paint the gas tank with it because I like silver gas tanks. On the cab and frame, I plan on just top coating the silver with some satin rustolium or my Eastwood Zinc-Phoshate which is a bad ass paint. Then, swap the new rear axel in, slap the gas tank back in, then prep and paint the new bed (easier said then done...), then put it back on. Then take the locker out of my rear 10bolt and put it in the front with a new axel shaft that needs replacing. Oh and then paint my new front fender... oh ya and replace my A-pillars... oh ya and weld in the steering box brace...
wow i have a lot on my plate...
EDIT: oh ya nd finish building the 355 I have at the machine shop now...
