I have the new shocks already... I just need to man up and get it done
Are you still interested in my current Bilsteins?
CK5
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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
I have the new shocks already... I just need to man up and get it done
Are you still interested in my current Bilsteins?
WOW!
That table of contents with indexes to the various topics is a great idea....
How would you feel about doing one for my build thread next?!!!
-G
That table of contents with indexes to the various topics is a great idea....
How would you feel about doing one for my build thread next?!!!
-G
Nice! Makes it easy to look up stages!
WOW!
That table of contents with indexes to the various topics is a great idea....
How would you feel about doing one for my build thread next?!!!
-G
I was bored at work... But I don't think I'm ever that bored...
I have the new shocks already... I just need to man up and get it done
Are you still interested in my current Bilsteins?
Sure. Seems silly to have nice shocks on the rear, and no shocks on the front.
Martin
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good work on the table Glen! I sure can't stop wondering if bilstiens are the right choice for me. I worry that they will give too firm of a ride on a dd. I want something more caddy oriented and also cheaper wouldn't hurt.
You're thinking about this all wrong. The Bilsteins helped my ride a lot. I had cheap shocks on there before and the ride was harsh. I also have the same series Bilsteins on my Tahoe and they helped remove some harshness from cranked torsion bars. You get what you pay for.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Interesting! I just don't know!
Just say no to manifolds! 
Seriously though, I use copper or aluminum header gaskets (or slip joint or v-band would work) and don't have any issues with header leaks. I also use hooker headers (or better ones) with welded flanges, the slip fit stamped flanges or horrible). I have had the same header gaskets on my 388 since 1996, and I have even removed and reinstalled them a few times for other stuff and just put them right back on. With the right headers and the right gaskets, they won't be problematic at all.
Seriously though, I use copper or aluminum header gaskets (or slip joint or v-band would work) and don't have any issues with header leaks. I also use hooker headers (or better ones) with welded flanges, the slip fit stamped flanges or horrible). I have had the same header gaskets on my 388 since 1996, and I have even removed and reinstalled them a few times for other stuff and just put them right back on. With the right headers and the right gaskets, they won't be problematic at all.
Just say no to manifolds!
Seriously though, I use copper or aluminum header gaskets (or slip joint or v-band would work) and don't have any issues with header leaks. I also use hooker headers (or better ones) with welded flanges, the slip fit stamped flanges or horrible). I have had the same header gaskets on my 388 since 1996, and I have even removed and reinstalled them a few times for other stuff and just put them right back on. With the right headers and the right gaskets, they won't be problematic at all.
I hear ya. But I'm not sure how much longer this Gen I sbc will stay there in favor of some thing Gen III/IV. That's why I didn't spring for new headers for this. (I still need to weld up the collector on the passenger side.) The Headman Elites aren't a bad header, but they have some room for improvement. I used the aluminum gaskets and ARP stainless bolts and have been getting good results so far.
But speaking of Gen IV small blocks, the headers I put on my Camaro are a very high quality. I re-used the factory manifold gaskets and bolts and not a single leak. The only thing I had problems with was the slip fit collectors. The clamps were ineffective so I pulled them and just welded the collectors solid.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
What are you thinking for the ls swap? Honestly, I think a stock Gen IV 6.2 would be perfect for this truck.
Gen IV for sure. You get better heads, bigger throttle body, and variable valve timing (unsure if I'd keep it though). The 6.0Ls are a little cheaper and more common than the 6.2Ls so we'll see what deals I can come up with when I'm ready.
You can put CNC'd LS3 heads on a 6.0 for $604 each right now, and they are better than the factory LS3 heads by about 10%. You cannot even come close to them for the price. Although you would need a new intake and 8 rocker arms if you started with a cathedral port engine. The only thing you would be missing at that point is the VVT and for a lot cheaper, I guess you would be missing about 1/16" of bore too, and the aluminum block.
And this isn't his daily driver, so why would he leave it stock?
And this isn't his daily driver, so why would he leave it stock?
You can put CNC'd LS3 heads on a 6.0 for $604 each right now, and they are better than the factory LS3 heads by about 10%. You cannot even come close to them for the price. Although you would need a new intake and 8 rocker arms if you started with a cathedral port engine. The only thing you would be missing at that point is the VVT and for a lot cheaper, I guess you would be missing about 1/16" of bore too, and the aluminum block.
And this isn't his daily driver, so why would he leave it stock?
I love everything about the LS3 in my Camaro. If I could get a used LS3 for a decent deal I would, but people are awfully proud of them. They have so much potential too. There are Camaro guys making 500RWHP with minor head work, cam, and headers. So those CNC LS3 heads definitely hold merit.
I know I'll pay more for a Gen IV but that way I get the whole package. If I chose to upgrade the heads on a 6.0L to the LS3 CNC heads, finding a used intake isn't that hard on the Camaro/Corvette forums. The 90mm throttle body should swap over, and the rocker arms I'd be doing the trunion upgrade regardless so aftermarket might not be a bad idea.
More tweaks made today
I re-torqued the cab mounts and they were all loose. I guess all the bouncing around the Dunes loosened them up. As a part of the body mounts, I pulled the core support mounts and replaced them. As well I also dropped the body lift down 3/4" on the driverside and 5/8" on the passenger side. This has finally gotten my door to fender gaps consistent top to bottom!!
I'll add pics later
I re-torqued the cab mounts and they were all loose. I guess all the bouncing around the Dunes loosened them up. As a part of the body mounts, I pulled the core support mounts and replaced them. As well I also dropped the body lift down 3/4" on the driverside and 5/8" on the passenger side. This has finally gotten my door to fender gaps consistent top to bottom!!
I'll add pics later
I really wish I could get some head work done on my 6.0 for cheap.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good job Glen! Are your mounts poly or rubber?
Driverside:
Passenger side:
I had to combine 2 smaller shims to get the right height to get the fender gap right.
So at this point I'm pretty sure either my frame is tweaked or is sagged hence the reason for different sized shims on the mounts. So currently I have a 1.5" lift under the cab and 3/4" and 5/8" under the core support.
Passenger side:
I had to combine 2 smaller shims to get the right height to get the fender gap right.
So at this point I'm pretty sure either my frame is tweaked or is sagged hence the reason for different sized shims on the mounts. So currently I have a 1.5" lift under the cab and 3/4" and 5/8" under the core support.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
How crazy.
Do it yourself, it's not that hard, a carbide burr for aluminum in the die grinder and a little research and you are set. I ported a pair for my brother a little. You can turn the exhaust port into a D port by opening the top side radius up a little, use a header gasket and keep it smaller than that on the top side, don't touch tbe bottom side. Then you can remove that big lump in the intake runner that covers the rocker bolt threads (have to use teflon thread sealer in the rockers then, aftermarket heads are already like that, and so were the CNC LS3 heads). Then do a bowl blend in the valve area and smooth the port flow into the heads. Do not touch the short side radius of the exhaust port, or the bottom of the intake port. And don't reshape the intake port, just smooth it and open it up. I only used two bits in the 6.0 heads, a long bit and a short bit.
Be careful to not touch any of the valve seat areas, and hand lap the valves when you are done. If you can't get a nice even lap all the way around every valve then you will need a valve job, or worse, to fix it.
Here is an article, I did not go as far as this guy did in the bowl area, don't have that much time, and I don't have a flow bench, and I don't have tools to do a valve job.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ghtp-1302-tech-port-it-yourself-ls-cylinder-heads/
