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My Slow 71 GMC Build

NV_K5 said:
From your description we have the same springs and from your pics we have the same shackles in the rear. I have a similar shimming and angle problem but can't do without the corrected pinion. So I'm seriously thinking about that pan hard option. Any suggestions or dimensions?
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Not sure what dimensions you need, but I can take measurements before I tear it apart. The best solution is to cut and rotate the housing/ends. That'll put the pinion at the correct angle without turning the caster out of whack. I don't need my panhard rod assembly. Maybe we can work something out. Shoot me a PM and we'll talk.
 
Well, it was the opener of duck season. I had to do my part and buy federal and state duck stamps. Once I did that, I figured that I might as well hunt too.

That being said, I didn't get much done this week. I cleaned up a ton, and you can't really tell.

Today was like Christmas. I bought a Craftsman Pro 5hp 60gal compressor, shop vac, DA sander, and a sand blaster. The got home and realized that I didn't have 220 in the garage.:dunno: I know that some of you guys don't like Craftsman, but the price was right. Then to top it off, my LMC Truck parts arrived. They appear to fit fairly well.

I CAN"T GET THE DRIVER"S FLOOR OUT OF THE TRUCK! I think that it is pinched between the A pillar and kick panel. I worked for hours and could not get it. I'll try more later. I am wondering if I bit off more than I can chew (you were right Greg). I'll get it done, but I think that it'll be slower than originally thought. This is truly a learning experience.

Once I got the passenger side rocker off, it didn't look too bad. There was just some surface rust that cleaned up well.

IMG_2534.jpg


Because I was told that painting/primer over spray paint is not a good idea, I explored new ways to get it off. Then I found this!:eek1: That will take some time to fix.

IMG_2535.jpg


I was pleased to find that with about 5 minutes of fixing, the windshield frame is actually going to be okay. I'll clean it really well, address it, and seal it.

IMG_2536.jpg


Here is a picture of the new rocker set in place.

IMG_2537.jpg
 
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Damn, that is a good day! Nice work and good progress. I can't wait to ACTUALLY get started with mine. Good fit on the rockers too, hopefully I don't have too many fit-issues.

Keep it up:thumb:
 
The floor is one of about 4 things that are "sandwiched" in that 4-bolts area in the A-pillar.

You've got the floor itself, the inside kickpanel, the cab support and the inner rocker all laying in there, so pulling just one of them out is going to be tough.

Do you have a lot of rust at the crease where the inner kickpanel meets the floor? Unless there is a ton of metal missing in that area, you might just try to avoid tearing it all the way out and rebuilding it from scratch.....it's a LOT of work.

Take a more careful look at the damage underneath in the cab support and where it bolts to the a-pillar...see how much material is really missing.

Once you cut it all out, you're committed and the "Might As Wells" can take hold.


:usaflag:
 
Greg,
The inner kick panel is not connected to the floor at all. Its completely rusted all the way through. I am committed now! I really do want to fix it right. This is the worst part of the whole truck, which is why I started here. One the other side, I just need to weld in the rocker. Then I'll sand blast the cab and start the finish work.

The body support is in excellent condition right now. I may cut off the lower A pillar and then remove/repair the floor and inner kick panel, then return the lower A pillar. I'll look again when I get home from work, then decide how to proceed.
 
Well, I did it. Not sure that I did it right or that it'll go back together. But I got the floor and kick panel out. I had to cut the bottom of the A pillar out. I did my best cut and I'll just weld it back in.

IMG_2538.jpg


IMG_2539.jpg
 
Good job....looks like you got down to good metal.

The inside kick panel is the first piece to go back in, followed by the floor patch (also tucks into that same area. Your cab support looks good enough to re-use... maybe just hit those rusty inside areas with some POR-15, Rustbullet or etching primer to stop the rust that's already there.


:usaflag:
 
I made some good progress tonight. I finished getting the rest of the floor cut out. The back half was much easier than the front half. I got some of the new metal set in place for test fit purposes.

They actually fit fairly well. The floor pan was too long. I cut it down and installed the back half. It is nearly a perfect fit. The front on the other hand...sucks out loud. It'll need some tuning dents and shaping. I have a feeling that when I start welding things in place, I'll be tweaking to get everything lined up correctly.

Here is the floor pan set in place. I had not cut it yet.

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Here you can see how the front of the floor pan does not line up to anything. It'll be interesting.

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Here is the rocker set in place. Everything seems to line up fairly well.

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Here is the inner kick panel set in place with the front floor pan. The kick panel lines up well, but the floor pan is all dicked up.

IMG_2545.jpg



Now all I need to do is find a small MIG so I can start welding everything in place. Guess this is my excuse to buy one. PM me of you've got a good used one.
 
Looks like you're making good progress:waytogo:

I can't wait to get going on mine like that. Take a look on ebay for welders (if you haven't already). I bought a new Lincoln WeldPak 125 for 300 shipped *to Hawaii*. Though if I were doing it now I'd go with the 140 so that it would come with the gas setup(didn't know that until after the fact:doah:). Anyways, it seems like there are some good deals on there sometimes, just watch the shipping.
 
Luke,

That gap on the floor sheetmetal is pretty typical of what you'll deal with for patch panels. They are better than building from scratch, but they are FAR from perfect.

Do you own a hammer and dolly set? Even a simple ball peen hammer and vise might help on that one. You just need to mark where the bend "should" be, then start bumping the metal to move than flange to meet the factory seam that runs horizontally across the footwell.

The other trick (if you haven't already figured it out) is to fit up the panel before cutting the original metal underneath, then use a .040" cutoff wheel in your grinder and carefully ride along the edge of the new part. The new part will act like a saw guide and will allow you to remove the original metal below....and of course the two parts you end up with will fit PERFECTLY together. The thickness of the cutoff wheel will give you just enough gap for the MIG welder to work well too. You don't want to the panels to touch each other for a butt-weld; a small gap will give you better penetration and a stronger weld.

Looking good. :waytogo: You're making pretty fast progress!


:usaflag:
 
Z71paramedic, I will check ebay. I was hoping to find one up here in Alaska, since its very industrial up here. We'll see what happens. This is way more fun than I thought it's be.

Greg, I was trying to figure out to overlap and cut like you said, but couldn't do it well with the front floor pan. That is how I cut the kick panel, which only looks crooked in the photo.

I do have a block and hammer set. I figured that I be using them here very soon.

Now I am going to clean up the inside of the rockers and body supports next. I'll get them sealed and then start with putting pieces back in for good. It may take some time, but I'll get more photos soon.
 
Well, I got side tracked for a few days helping my dad SAS his F-150. Last week, I picked up a sandblaster, compressor, and MIG.

I've got a few pics of the driver's side floor nearly welded back in. Greg, your trick of using the old floor as a guide to cut the new floor is working great.

This is the back half of the floor partially welded in the truck.

IMG_2547.jpg


Here is the start of the front half. I made way more progress than this photo, but didn't take any more pictures.

IMG_2549.jpg


Again, I made more progress on this area too, just didn't take more pictures


IMG_2548.jpg
 
Well, its almost done...the rockers anyway. I am less than happy with LMC Truck's sheet metal. I have a few issues. The floor pan was too long. I cut it down and it was no big deal. Then the rockers didn't fit. Used a "tuning" hammer to make them work. Then the radius of the rocker does not match the radius of the lower cab corner. Here is the funny part, both are LMC Truck products. You would think that if they are not the same as factory, they would at least match each other.

Here is the cab corner and the rocker mounted. They're not perfect, but they may be acceptable.

IMG_2552-1.jpg


Then, the lower can corner does not even come close to the contour of the origional cab. I'll have to cut a strip out to make it work. I may just contact Year One.

IMG_2551-1.jpg


Here it is showing a door and fender. The lines are not that bad. What do you guys think?


Now I am going to finish sand blasting this thing. I"ll rubber undercoat the bottom and rhino line the floor. Anyone know if Dynamat with stick to Herculiner? Then its primer and paint.

I call Ballistic Fab to ask about the parts I ordered a month ago. They said that they'd be mailed today. So hopefully I'll have some suspension stuff to show you guys.
 
I think we're missing the 3rd photo??? :dunno:

Repro sheetmetal is stinky, but it's still faster than building patches from scratch. I guess that's the only consolation.


:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
I think we're missing the 3rd photo??? :dunno:

Repro sheetmetal is stinky, but it's still faster than building patches from scratch. I guess that's the only consolation.


:usaflag:
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Right you are. Here it is. I guess I'd much rather use bad repo metal than make it my self. It will most likely look better this way.

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