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My Slow 71 GMC Build

Sorry, no progress. Rory, my new daughter is taking all of my time. What time she does not take is being used to study for a SES checkride.

I need to pick up those little clamps that hold sheet metal together to butt weld. I have no idea what they're called. I cut and spliced the rear cab corner. I need to keep it lined up and clamped when I weld it.

Here are some old photos I found. I bought this doubler from Pirate a few years back. Any guesses as to what type of doubler it is? Maybe ORD Gen I?

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Rear bumper that holds 6 gallons @ 150psi.

GMC_4.jpg
 
Another. This was the day that I spray painted it white. I looks way better in this picture than it did in person, trust me! The white hid dents, scraps, rust, etc. Notice the overspray on the top of the window.

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Well, its been slow. I've been working a ton. That being said, I've decided to go a new direction with the truck.

I did finish the sheet metal repair. I used Zink Chormate to cover the bare metal. I will confess that I used a glazing putty to finish off the exterior. My welding/grinding is not that good. I think the floor came out good enough. I've covering it with a Rhino type liner.

I'm thinking long travel, go-fast machine. I read until my eyes bled. I've got a rear 4 link setup that I'm happy with. Anti-squat around 76%. It took hours to measure my frame well enough to start. I went nuts with a pencil and ruler. Once I was happy, I turned to the 4 Link Calculator. Now I need to start building.

Did anyone else have to read the Pirate 4x4 Coil over Bible 4 times??? I understand it now, but it took a while. I think that I'm shooting for a frequency of 1.45 front and 1.39 rear.

I picked up a very low mileage LQ9 and 4L80e. I need to read more, but plan to use a marine controller for the LQ9 and a stand alone for the 4L80e. Again, I need to research more

I found a blue 71 or 72 Chevy in the Desert section, but can't find the build to it. Anyone have go- fast build pictures of these trucks?

I'd like some feedback, good or bad? I know that I haven't done much at this point. I plan to start building rear links this weekend.

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A desert truck in Alaska? :dunno:

Seems counterintuitive, but then again I've never been there..... it seems like a well-rounded 4X4 would be fun in more places, but if you want to spend all your time in the dunes or flat out on the dirt roads that's another way to go.

I don't spend much time reading the desert truck stuff, but it's clear that they worry a lot more about designing for massive wheel droop (both sides) and minimizing driveshaft plunge and pinion angle change. One-wheel articulation is not nearly as important for those guys, and high-dollar triple bypass shocks are the key to the whole thing. Lots of tuning, valving, etc to get the bump/rebound correct. You'll probably want to ditch that heavy 14BFF rear for a lighter setup too. Unsprung weight is a lot more important for that category of truck.

Are you planning to go 2WD with a-arms up front? Watch out for caster change during droop/bump up front. That will make the truck a real handful at speed in the bumps.

Desert truck stuff can get stupid-expensive in a hurry, but if you've been doing a lot of reading on it, I'm sure you already know that part. :D


:usaflag:
 
A desert truck in Alaska? :dunno:

Seems counterintuitive, but then again I've never been there..... it seems like a well-rounded 4X4 would be fun in more places, but if you want to spend all your time in the dunes or flat out on the dirt roads that's another way to go.

I don't spend much time reading the desert truck stuff, but it's clear that they worry a lot more about designing for massive wheel droop (both sides) and minimizing driveshaft plunge and pinion angle change. One-wheel articulation is not nearly as important for those guys, and high-dollar triple bypass shocks are the key to the whole thing. Lots of tuning, valving, etc to get the bump/rebound correct. You'll probably want to ditch that heavy 14BFF rear for a lighter setup too. Unsprung weight is a lot more important for that category of truck.

Are you planning to go 2WD with a-arms up front? Watch out for caster change during droop/bump up front. That will make the truck a real handful at speed in the bumps.

Desert truck stuff can get stupid-expensive in a hurry, but if you've been doing a lot of reading on it, I'm sure you already know that part. :D


:usaflag:


Your right. There is tons of mud here...I HATE mud. You'd think that there'd be more rocks here. Not so much. We do, however, have tons of logging roads, fire roads, and sand.

I was thinking of a rock-racer type suspension. I don't think that full-blown Baja is how I'll go. It will DEFINITELY be 4wd. I still plan on using the Ford HP 60.

I did see that everything is super expensive though. I'll just throw more money at it. Time is what I'm short on; hence the "slow" build.

Since you've never been here, if you find yourself up here somehow, let know. I show you Alaska the proper way. Ever been in a float plane?
 
Is a float plane the one with the pontoons for landing and taking off from water?

Sounds like a fun offer, I'll have to remember that if I ever get the chance to head out your direction! :deal:


:usaflag:
 
That looks pretty sweet, I bet you can see a lot from that POV.

I was at Fairbanks once a couple years ago. Also went to Denali, saw some Grizzlies, went hiking. It's beautiful up there.
 
Not much new. The LQ9 I was going to pick up fell through. Still looking for one. The cab is ready for primer. A buddy of mine has a paint booth he's going to let me use.

I don't know whether or not to prime/paint first, then Herculiner the floor and bottom; or do it the other way around.

I started cleaning the frame and removing the rivets and bracket that I no longer need. If anyone needs front/rear shock brackets, e-brake brackets, bump stops...maybe more; you pay shipping and they are yours.

I am still waiting on brackets from Ballistic before I start linking the rear. I did get an e-mail that they are shipped. Once that is done, I'll finish removing the rest of the brackets. I will sell my ORD shackle flips. I'll be sure to post pics when I get there.

Its -5 F outside here, so this all is getting done in the garage. The sandblaster is WAY TOO messy to use inside. For now I am using a wire wheel on the frame. It is a long process doing it this way. Its gong to be a PITA to get inside the frame rails and under brackets. The primer is blotchy because its not dry yet.

Though I wanted to box my frame like Greg did, I am not sure that is going to be the necessary. I may just use plate and box the frame. We'll see.

I know that there is not much tech yet. I don't want to rush this and half-ass anything. I appreciate the feedback from you guys. Keep it coming...good or bad.

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looks good...


one thing i've always tried to do, being a former bodyman, is to have the sandblaster do as little work as possible... especially on my current rig where i HAD to sandblast inside...

i hit the he!! out of everything i can get to with a DA and some 50, 60 grit,, rolocs, wirewheels, etc, then i spot blast all the nooks and crannies with the blaster....

maybe you can take this approach and just get it outside for a quickie blast at the end...

keep up the good work!
 
Luke,

Any reason why you aren't shooting those prepped spots with the CK5-approved primer known as Ryoken Green??? :dunno:

I don't know if living in AK makes it tougher to get, I know it's only allowed to ship via ground service in the lower 48, so maybe there's just no easy way to get rattlecans where you are??


:usaflag:
 
Looking good Luke,

I know all about blasting in a garage, what a mess. Even though I used 6 mil on the walls and floor, the stuff got absolutely every where.

Keep it going man:waytogo:

-Mike
 
Luke, Looks good. Your about the same point where I got discouraged on a Willy's pickup and I ended up selling the whole thing because I was feeling like it would never warm up outside and I'd never be able to re-assemble the thing. I regret that.

Don't rush and don't stress about putting it together "in time".

Don't take as long as Greg either :)
 
Don't take as long as Greg either :)


Most people that take as long as me have already become discouraged, and sold their projects off piece by piece..... :whistle:

I don't know what the record is for the longest jackstand build that actually got completed, but I have a feeling that I'm getting up into the top 10 longest build threads by now.


ps. Don't be like me. Build it and drive it.

:usaflag:
 
thats my biggest problem, bit off more than I could chew at the time, not so much mechanicly as budget wise, and havent been able to have any fun with it becuas eof that.


BTW awesome build, I love that bodystyle, and the gmc isnt near as common as the chevs are.
 
Any reason why you aren't shooting those prepped spots with the CK5-approved primer known as Ryoken Green??? :dunno:


:usaflag:



That is Zink Chromate (aka Ryoken Green?). I had two color options - grey and green. I took the green. :dunno: Just looks different that what you guys were using. I'll just go wait in the corner until I find the right stuff.:whistle:

Thanks for the positive feedback. I'm going to go crazy with a grinder and wire wheel on the frame. I'm amazed at how much dust that kicks up. I've decided you take your ideas. I'm going to suck it up, roll it outside, and use the sandblaster on the spots I can't get with a wheel.

Now I am at the point where I need to start throwing some real money at this thing. Giant Motorsports make a WIY lower link kit that I am going to use as a starting point.

http://giantmotorsports.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=37&Itemid=57

I can't buy the steel to make one of them myself for the price of both from Giant.

Ruff Stuff makes a lower link bracket that is freakin perfect for me.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/trailing-bracket-p-329.html

WFO Concepts makes a nice 14 bolt truss also. This does not even start to cover coilovers, springs, wheel, tires, engine/trans/atlas, and all the rest.

I really wanted to build my own parts, but the cost of steel up here is insane! I'll keep working and get some more pics sooner than later.
 
Weird on the zinc chromate....sure looks grey to me. Maybe the can's mislabeled?? :dunno:

Anyway, it's the right stuff so carry on!

Those RuffStuff brackets have a very familiar look to them. With what I know now about how long it takes to build from scratch, it might have been easier and cheaper to just buy those and spend a little time making them fit. Cool stuff.


:usaflag:
 
I got the back half of the frame coated. POR 15 baby!!! That stuff is awesome. Less than one half of one quart did all that. I purposely didn't coat several parts, as they'll be removed. I need to do some touch-up. Now I am ready to start welding brackets on.

I'm going to pull the motor this weekend and finish the front. First person to show up with $500 takes it, turn key. I'll change my price in the for sale section.

The second picture is a Ballistic Fab 22.5 degree bracket. It fits perfectly between the frame rails exactly where I need to mount my upper links. I don't think that I'll get that lucky again. I am going to plate the frame from that bracket forward.

Now, should I...
POR 15 the firewall and underside of the cab or Herculiner it?

How 'bout the interior?

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Cool build. Going fast really is the most fun you'll have, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. :)
 

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