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My Suzuki samurai "situation"

cybrfire

cybrfire

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If the carb assembly was 6 lbs. when we took it off it was only 3.5 when it went back on.

I mean really, how many systems can influence choke operation! GOOD LORD!

There was some hot exhaust gases, Engine coolant connections, electrical and a mile of vaccum lines. All to flip one little flapper over.

I have never heard it run as smooth as it did when all the junk was pulled. Got to get the manual choke on yet but other than that successful Hitachi carb rebuild.
 
OffRoad said:
i have a zoo. can you post more detailed information please? is there a website about this?

thank you.
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sorry, no website. We just made it up as we went along and bolted it back on the manifold for testing it out. Basically we rebuilt the carb and as we put it back together, we noticed alot of the garbage that is bolted to the carb is strictly for choke operation. I'd rather have a manual choke. Seems all the automatic stuff was nonoperational any way.

This is also a 1986 model year which has some different things about it.
 
There some guys who build the Webers and get great reviews. Never heard much good about the stock carbs...this sounds like why.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
There some guys who build the Webers and get great reviews. Never heard much good about the stock carbs...this sounds like why.
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Thought about the weber carb for a while but decided to kit it for cheap for now and put on propane when the 1.6 goes in.
 
Woo...big block time!

Skip the 1.6 and do the 2.0L swap. Who needs 2x the stock power when you can have 4!:D
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Woo...big block time!

Skip the 1.6 and do the 2.0L swap. Who needs 2x the stock power when you can have 4!:D
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1.6 is sitting in the kick behind the shop. Availablilty brother!
 
My bud just completed a 1.6L swap. it runs great. He got a rolled Suzuki Sidekick with 93,000 miles for $650 bucks. Him and I rebuilt the transfer case with a low gear set. Sent off the wireing harness to a shop that does the conversion and bought their engine/trans swap bracket kit. He's a machinist also so he fabbed up some cool stuff him self for the conversion. Put it a new hi volume aluminum rad. It has a 3.5 lift and 30 in BFG's. I build a cage for it. all in all he's got maybe $4200 in it. Just needs a couple of lockers and a winch bumper and its done. Not many chevy's built for that cheap.
 
I bought mine pretty much built for $3500 I think it was.??...

Anyway,

Spring over which is about 4". Has a winch, winch bumper, sliders 31" trxus. Plastic racing buckets, cb radio, cd player, Some KC daylighters and some other small odds and ends. Traded a friend my soft top for his fast back top.

I haven't done much too it so far. I really just wanted to drive it. It just started running terribly so it got parked for a while. Only way to keep it running was to floor board it all the time.

Next mods will be some adequate gearing. looking for 5.12's for it. Then she'll be done for a while.

At some point I'll drop the 1.6 in it and hope to have made the arrangements for Propane at the same time. There is a place here in town that can fill the tanks for me. I plan to have 2 or 3 tanks and some kind of system where when they find a tank buy their fill station they just go ahead and fill it so no matter what I have a tank full in town and a spare at the house.
 
"Situation is the new deal."

:haha:


It really is amazing how much of that stuff was strictly for choke operation though. Exhaust heat, coolant heat, engine vacuum, etc. etc. Talk about making something overcomplicated.

I do believe the carb rebuild helped considerably as well. The main upper/lower gasket as well as the accelerator pump seal was screwed.
 
mikey_d05 said:
"Situation is the new deal."

:haha:


It really is amazing how much of that stuff was strictly for choke operation though. Exhaust heat, coolant heat, engine vacuum, etc. etc. Talk about making something overcomplicated.

I do believe the carb rebuild helped considerably as well. The main upper/lower gasket as well as the accelerator pump seal was screwed.
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Makes me wonder how much of the other stuff attached to the carb is doing nothing. Or, doing nothing right.
 
Did we ever try unplugging the electronics? On the inside it looked like a normal carb to me, so I have no idea what the 18 wires running into it are actually doing.

It's a mechanical fuel pump correct?
 
mikey_d05 said:
Did we ever try unplugging the electronics? On the inside it looked like a normal carb to me, so I have no idea what the 18 wires running into it are actually doing.

It's a mechanical fuel pump correct?
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That was my thinking as well. It's a mechanical pump. I don't believe there is any computer control to the distributor either. There is an O2 sensor. Only thing I can think of is the "dumb" computer adjusts mixture according to o2 sensor. I don't recall seeing a mixture adjustment on the carb.
 
That's right, the one screw was just idle speed. Are we sure that wasn't a mixture screw and it just messed with idle speed? There was another screw on the throttle cable situation that nobody ever messed with.

The dizzy is vacuum advance, so no worries there. I also don't recall seeing an O2 sensor. :confused:
 
mikey_d05 said:
That's right, the one screw was just idle speed. Are we sure that wasn't a mixture screw and it just messed with idle speed? There was another screw on the throttle cable situation that nobody ever messed with.

The dizzy is vacuum advance, so no worries there. I also don't recall seeing an O2 sensor. :confused:
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i played with the one screw while the carb was off to verify it was an idle bump.

definitely an O2 sensor. I remember see it when I put the new plugs in some time ago.

So, question is, if the electronics were disconnected what would happen to the mixture? How do the electronics change the ratio? If disconnected do they stay where they were when disconnected?

Course, maybe the O2 sensor could be replaced or whatever and have the mixture more accurate.....
 
Would the O2 sensor circuit default to a certain reading if the sensor were unplugged?

Also, the best I can remember, there were at least 10 wires running into the carb. How many does it take to adjust mixture? :eek1:
 
You guys are having a great convo here but you do know that the guys over on www.Zukiworld.com and www.Zuwharrie.com could tell you all about it in 5 minutes?

Oh yeah, considered regearing the transfer case instead of the axles? Seems like a lot of folks go that route since the Sami has high range reduction.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
You guys are having a great convo here but you do know that the guys over on www.Zukiworld.com and www.Zuwharrie.com could tell you all about it in 5 minutes?

Oh yeah, considered regearing the transfer case instead of the axles? Seems like a lot of folks go that route since the Sami has high range reduction.
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I'd agree with that. Kinda fun to figure it out on your own sometimes too.

I think to really regear correctly you kinda need to spread it out and take stresses off more of the drivetrain. Axle gears are cheap and quick to set up so I'll start there and keep driving it in the mean time. Less down time for me means less spent on fuel driving the 454 dually!!!
 
Well...I don't have a Sami so I might not have it correct...


...but I think the Sami thirds are stronger than the Track/Kick aluminum thirds. I've noticed more Sami guys will regear their t-case than the diffs.

With the 31's and the high range reduction you might consider 4.62's. They'd be easier to find as that's the ratio the auto equipped Kick/Tracker guys are getting rid of to run 5.12's for their big tires.
 
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