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My TBI computer chip programing thread/adventure.

Well, i messed around with it for about an hour and a hlaf burning 7 chips. Never really got any better then my last "best chip" from the last session. Leaning out the o2s made closed loop idle better but raised the blms! I tried compensating for that and it just made things worse. Also, it made open loop seem to idle worse. So i said eff it! Plugged the "best chip" program back into it and im "satisfied". After today im not convinced that anything I can do will make it any better then that. One thing about today though is that it sure was nice having tunerpro doing everything for me! No more closiing tp to open winaldl and back again! All i had to do was plug in the aldl cable, hit the arrows button and log. Then, when i burned a new chip, unplag aldl cable, plug in burn2 and hit the cable button! Lather rinse repeat! THat was awesome. Anyway, i did logg each chip burn and took a few video. Even bashed my head on the garage door in one of them... So, Loggs and videos here in a few.

Edit: Here is some of the loggs. Im saving these with the titles formated as date and time. So today is 9-15 followed by the time the file was saved eg. 9-15 10:33am =9151033
 

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Few more, Vids coming shortly,

The9151030 log represents my "best chip" and this video,

 

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Rest of the vids. Some of them are pretty sucky.

See if you can spot which one i bash my head into the garage door in!




 
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You have an adjustable MAP sensor! It's the VE table! :D

But those adjustable MAP sensors are popular with Jeep guys who can not tune their ECM because it is not possible. If you have a bigger cam and use one you turn it down for idle, now mid range is way off but ecm compenstes best it can, then WOT is OK. It's a poor way to tune.
 
I hear ya. I'm mostly just curious to see how it works for me. Luke I said, if i pull 19-20 inhg on ky map sensor whole the motor is running it runs just like a perfect stock motor. I have not been able (yet) to get anywhere near as good of results with tuning. So I'm thinkin, that if i can get the asjuster to fix my idle, then i can use tuning to fix everything that the adjuster just messed up! Seems like a "might as well" thing to me. Especially, if things go one way and I really do only put 10 miles on the truck in the next 3 years, then i might as well have it idling as perfect as possible during that time. As soon as possible, It's getting a 6.0 any way.
 
You have come so far in such a short time Grasshopper! You have the knowledge, you just haven't got the tune right yet. Now you start looking for snake oil cures? :doah:

You have an adjustable MAP sensor! It's in your VE tables!
 
I stil plan on doing something like this before i actually apply the snake oil, Adjust BPW down until my BLMs at idle are in the 115+ range. Then, Fine tune in the ve table and see what that does for me. The thing about that is, im not sure how thats going to affect everything else like choke idle and all that stuff. As it is now, i can live with my current tune. But i would like it to be better! I just know that right now its not being all that it can be, cause i have seen it run tip top before! On a stock tune no less! So i know it can get better then it is! The snake oil thing is pretty much just going to be a cheap curiosity killer.
 
You already did snake oil and it idled! Remember when you put a vacuum pump on? Although I have never touched an adjustable MAP sensor I know what they do and if it fixs one thing it will mess up the rest! All it does is change reading to ECM, for everything! You have the ability to change ECM cells for your only problem, idle.

You have recorded enough data, learned enough about tuning now you need to start with a stock chip and make adjustments. Right now you probably changed to many things.

Changing BPW is going to effect everything. Your going to lower it to make idle work and when you go for a ride under load everything else will be lean... that cam need less VE around idle and when you start doing WOT runs it's going to want more VE.
 
I hear ya man! About the BPW adjustment, Dave says we need to stick between 45-95 on the ve tables or the injectors wont work right. Right now at stock BPW im down at like 31 or something. I'll still mess with the tuning, but im thinking i probably will still try the adjuster and see what it does to all points. Just for fun. Whats the worst that could happen? Seems like it would be worth it just to cure the curiosity at least.
 
Dave is correct, that is optimal, but I have had them down to 25 at idle with no issues...
 
Im at a real strange point now in the tuning thing. Im to the point where if i remove any more fuel, it starts to get worse. The point im at now is basically just tolerable. but i know it doesnt run right. So pretty much, ive added as much timing as possible, and removed as much fuel as possible, my BLM's are about right, but the exhaust is very rich still and the engine runs far from smooth.
 
I dunno? It only has about 1/2 a mile on it but probably a couple hours of running. I've gone through about a half tank now just in the driveway... But wouldnt it run good in open loop? as it is now it runs better in closed loop.
 
y5mgisi said:
Im at a real strange point now in the tuning thing. Im to the point where if i remove any more fuel, it starts to get worse. The point im at now is basically just tolerable. but i know it doesnt run right. So pretty much, ive added as much timing as possible, and removed as much fuel as possible, my BLM's are about right, but the exhaust is very rich still and the engine runs far from smooth.
Click to expand...

I think if I was at this point in a tune, I'd LOOK REAL CLOSE at what the Kpa's are doing. ADD or REMOVE Timing / VE Value to get the Kpa number as low as possible. For idle, 30 Kpa is WAYYYYYYYY better than 40 Kpa!:D

It's kind of like a carburetor adjusting the idle mixture screws / distributor to get a strong vacuum signal. The TBI is just like a carburetor for getting a baby butt smooth idle, the timing table and VE tables are adjusted instead of a mixture screw or distributor.:waytogo:

dave w
 
Yep! The suckything is right now im idling in park at about 42ish and in gear about 52ish... I have added all the timing that i think i safely can, and removed as much fuel as i ithink i safely can. Now i think its on to the otherstuff besides just ve and sa tables.
 
LOL! Mark! You were one of the dudes telling me not to Dick with the cam if I remember right! LOL anyway, yes I have thought aboutt checking the degree on the cam. Still might so that. Not like It's really keeping me from driving it... With everything that i have done idle kpa never has been under 40 constantly. And never under 50 in gear consistently. I haven't been able to drive it because it has bad tags and no insurance. That's why I kinda was really hoping to basically leave everything alone except the idle sa and ve but so far, that hasn't produced the results I'm looking for so I'm not too sure which direction to go next.
 
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