I never had much doubt that our headlight circuits are hurting and that the headlight relay conversion will of course help.
However, I thought it might be nice to test the setup before/after and one other way. I have some solar cells, so I thought it might be cool to see a before/after using them.
Well, solar was actually the easiest to test, so I did. Placed a small solar cell 30" from the single high beam (quad headlight setup, mid 80's) fixed to the garage door (truck parked/off) measured voltage generated by the cell with the flashlight on it, (.45V) then with straight battery voltage (11.72V, it's been sitting for awhile) to the headlight (.55V) and finally with the stock headlight wiring. (.55V) I may have to play around with the cell some more, I don't believe it's "maxed out" on voltage output though, maybe I'm too close, although that shouldn't be a factor. Stronger light, higher voltage output. Close=more concentrated beam/strong light.
I next checked voltage at the headlight plug, stock switch wiring. From the 11.72 system voltage, it was down to 10V even. That was even using a separate ground. The headlight plugs I grabbed from the 'yard to do these tests were in bad shape, corroded, so I hit them with a wire wheel before tests. Not sure how I'm going to do it, but I need to pull the stock headlight wiring and clean the contacts to give it a fair shake. But almost 2V in a 12V system is obviously huge.
Right after I get done installing the fuel filter clamp, heated O2 sensor, new injectors, and burning another PROM, I'll get to cleaning the contacts and finishing this "test". Or I'll get bored of the above 4 at some point and switch gears and finish the test sooner.
What can I say, I like testing stuff.
However, I thought it might be nice to test the setup before/after and one other way. I have some solar cells, so I thought it might be cool to see a before/after using them.
Well, solar was actually the easiest to test, so I did. Placed a small solar cell 30" from the single high beam (quad headlight setup, mid 80's) fixed to the garage door (truck parked/off) measured voltage generated by the cell with the flashlight on it, (.45V) then with straight battery voltage (11.72V, it's been sitting for awhile) to the headlight (.55V) and finally with the stock headlight wiring. (.55V) I may have to play around with the cell some more, I don't believe it's "maxed out" on voltage output though, maybe I'm too close, although that shouldn't be a factor. Stronger light, higher voltage output. Close=more concentrated beam/strong light.
I next checked voltage at the headlight plug, stock switch wiring. From the 11.72 system voltage, it was down to 10V even. That was even using a separate ground. The headlight plugs I grabbed from the 'yard to do these tests were in bad shape, corroded, so I hit them with a wire wheel before tests. Not sure how I'm going to do it, but I need to pull the stock headlight wiring and clean the contacts to give it a fair shake. But almost 2V in a 12V system is obviously huge.
Right after I get done installing the fuel filter clamp, heated O2 sensor, new injectors, and burning another PROM, I'll get to cleaning the contacts and finishing this "test". Or I'll get bored of the above 4 at some point and switch gears and finish the test sooner.
What can I say, I like testing stuff.
