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my trailer build

If you look at a lot of heavy duty trailers, the tongue rails are set up like this. It reduces bending stress a lot, especially at the welds, since the tongue-weight-bias has a ton of leverage and bounces against the tongue.

Everything else looks pretty hefty compared to most manufactured trailers around 10k lbs though. You're probably fine. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Making the members taller at high leverage concentrations will be the most efficient for weight and strength. You might want to add vertical plane between the end of the tongue and just behind the front of the deck. Doesn't have to be very thick, the height is what counts more than anything. I can't really tell how tall the beams you're using are though. They look quite a bit taller than what you'd normally see, so again you might be just fine. Just throwing out ideas :thumb:

I would say the one benefit to 3 axles would be if you get a flat (or two). It's a lot easier to chain a hub up off the ground if you can put a tire in front of and behind it...I've actually lost both spares on more than one occasion :doah:. Two axles is way more maneuverable and easier to load properly though. Not to mention you spend less on tires. I personally would only do a two axle.

Are you going to run a deck or just leave it open framework?

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Thanks for the input and I see what you're saying and why they have the double layer beams at that fulcrum or stress point i guess you can call it where the load pushes down and the tongue supports upward further away, if that makes sense. I assume it's somewhere between where the axles support and the tongue is.

As far as the main beams on my trailer, they're 4" I beam and THICK, the thinnest portion is 1/4+ and thicker towards the vertical section, and all the runners I added are 4x4x1/4 angle, I'm pretty sure it's strong enough but i might still add some more support to the area mentioned in the your drawing.
 
Nothing substantial, I have decking hardware, a tongue jack to install, an 8ft section of wire harness with the 7pin plug that ill extend to where needed, im really just waiting til after the new year probably to drop the near $1000 on dual brake axles, but I also just aquired another 4x4 project so we'll see where the funds end up:D

It's an '84 toyota cab, frame, n flatbed got it for $180, that I'm going to throw 1 tons under, a sbc V8, a th400 or sm465, and a divorced 205
 
One thing I like to do with any trailer I own or build is I run regular ole electrical conduit from the tongue to the axles with a J box there and continue on to the rear for all my wiring to run inside. It eliminates the risk of your wiring sagging over time and possibly getting hung up on something and yanked loose.
 
...and mice n dogs seem to LOVE eating trailer wiring
 
Are you fenders wide enough for you to drive your truck on? My trailer has some nice drive over fenders made from diamond plate with a 5/8's support rod welded under. MY last K5 with 1 tons, 39.5 IROKs and BBC wouldn't even bend them. No way the tires would go between
 
i like that conduit idea i'll have to look into that

and i've planned on having it wide enough to drive between fenders but am leaning more and more towards quick removable or drive-over, most likely removable though
 
One thing I like to do with any trailer I own or build is I run regular ole electrical conduit from the tongue to the axles with a J box there and continue on to the rear for all my wiring to run inside. It eliminates the risk of your wiring sagging over time and possibly getting hung up on something and yanked loose.


I'd take a gamble and say you are probably an electrician. :waytogo:

Good idea though.
 
You could take a gamble.....but you'd lose that gamble lol

I'm a custom fabricator/machinist.

I actually got the idea from just some leftover conduit laying around from building a barn.
 
yeah, me too... I'm thinking I may go for a homemade build in the next year or so considering I'm buying a good towrig...
 
Sorry to say nothing of any significance, i know it's putting the carriage before the donkey but i've been focusing on my green sticker rig build in the "Other Rides" section.

This project just isn't as fun as the other :D but it'll get done

I am still shopping around for axles though, i've got quotes from a boat/rv supply place in napa that gets axles from a supplier in sacramento, just need to pull the trigger on it.
 
Sorry to say nothing of any significance, i know it's putting the carriage before the donkey but i've been focusing on my green sticker rig build in the "Other Rides" section.

This project just isn't as fun as the other :D but it'll get done

I am still shopping around for axles though, i've got quotes from a boat/rv supply place in napa that gets axles from a supplier in sacramento, just need to pull the trigger on it.
I was doing the same thing but then i started college and now i have to sell off my tow rig/trailer to build a street legal wheeler so can get back to wheeling :doah:. Lifes a beach :D. Anyways lookin forward to seein how this ends.
 
installed the trailer jack today:woot:

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So I feel I should update this, been considering a lot of things and have made a decision to just buy a factory built trailer instead, I'm in a good position to do so and it just makes sense for me now more than ever. Should be very soon and I'm looking at these.


http://www.pjtrailers.com/brochures/B5.pdf
 
My cousin has the same trailer but its 12000 gbw it's a great trailer pulls nice depending on what your tow rig is you should probably go with equalizers because the trailer alone heavy!
 
thanks for the input, and the current tow rig is a 2001 Silverado 2500HD with the 8.1L gas motor, gets horrendous mileage but has a good amount of power, we already tow a large toy hauler with it and use equalizers on that and it pulls well.

Eventually I'd like to get just a beater but reliable tow rig like an early/mid 90's Dodge or Ford with the Cummins or Powerstroke motors of course.
 

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