blazerboss 85
Banned
yes im three hundred and fifty percent aware idk what made you really bring that up lol but its not necessarily stronger its just longer lasting from my experience
CK5
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my TRAZER build thread...take a gander
- Thread starter blazerboss 85
- Start date
yes im three hundred and fifty percent aware idk what made you really bring that up lol but its not necessarily stronger its just longer lasting from my experience
blazerboss 85
Banned
np205 idler shaft bearings. used as a spacer so i could put my fenders on because i made the rear cab mount too low
Its a pretty sweet, definitely the best wheeling I have ever done. It is a trek out there though, well worth it in my opinion. I will flag you down if I see you
blazerboss 85
Banned
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Thats so steep decents are easier............ 
honestly though aside from just looking right, with no rear fenders theres no reason to lift it more. I would actually rather see him cut the fenders and lower the front to match the rear since its a trail truck and he has his DD K5.
honestly though aside from just looking right, with no rear fenders theres no reason to lift it more. I would actually rather see him cut the fenders and lower the front to match the rear since its a trail truck and he has his DD K5.
blazerboss 85
Banned
Thats so steep decents are easier............
honestly though aside from just looking right, with no rear fenders theres no reason to lift it more. I would actually rather see him cut the fenders and lower the front to match the rear since its a trail truck and he has his DD K5.
yea i like that idea better i dont really wanna put lift springs or blocks on it because that will just make it worse to wheel with
If I were you I would drop the front spring mounts a little. It would drop the front and give you a better approach, at least it I think it would from the pictures, that could be the beer talking too though...
original balzer
1/2 ton status
I agree raise them up enough to get rid of the bearings and shorten your shackles to match.
blazerboss 85
Banned
thats not an option that crossmember cannot move side to side up down whatever just because thats how i built it. this isnt put towards you original blazer but i really dont know why everybody is so confused about the bearings spacing the radiator support on here in person on pirate. whats the big freaking deal
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Its just not safe, it gives people ammo (those people who dont agree with off roading tree huggers) against our hobby. Its like using 1" rebar for a tie rod, yea it seams solid but it just wasnt designed for that use.
Granted you only have them under the rad support, so its not THAT bad. BUT I suspect it will only take a few twists off road to show you that those will not stay put.
Bottom line is, most of us are in the mind set to do it right or just dont do it at all. Its nothing personal, just think of it as us defendig our sport/hobby.
What if you cap the ends and plate the top and sides for strength then sink it into the cross member? Then you wouldn't have to move the cross member, just mess with the outer part. That might not work at all but thats what I would do judging by the pictures
original balzer
1/2 ton status
I would pull the crossmember then cut from the top down so the frame of the truck can sink into it the distance needed to eliminate th bearings. then it looks like you could get a bit more drop by moving the spring bolt holes up a little. Then just be sure to compensate the shackles so your pinion angle isnt fubar.
Im not saying this to annoy you just trying to help you come up with a way to drop the front to better match the rear.
Overall I really like the truck, good job so far.
Im not saying this to annoy you just trying to help you come up with a way to drop the front to better match the rear.
Overall I really like the truck, good job so far.
I don't think the stance has much to do with the bearings. They space up the rad support what maybe an inch? And that is just so the body lines up (body mount was too low). The rake is more related to the fact that he dropped the front spring hangers 3 inches or so. Look at the frame - the body mounts aren't the cause.
I don't recall the spring/shackle specs, but with the stock front spring hangers and shorter shackles, I bet it would be just about even front to rear - though prolly a bit too low.
I don't recall the spring/shackle specs, but with the stock front spring hangers and shorter shackles, I bet it would be just about even front to rear - though prolly a bit too low.
blazerboss 85
Banned
pictures realy dont do it justice. they make it look alot higher in the front than it actually is. and if i do lower the front at all im just going to pull a leaf. the approach angle isnt really going to bother me but hey what do i know. since the bearings match the surface area the body mount comes in contact stock im fine with it i personally would rather use this solid one inch tall bearing over a poly bushing any day thats just me though
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Kudos....
quite a difference from the pile of parts in the driveway you started with. Nice work....
quite a difference from the pile of parts in the driveway you started with. Nice work....
blazerboss 85
Banned
pennsylvaniaboy
1/2 ton status
i still dont see a front driveshaft
blazerboss 85
Banned
i still dont see a front driveshaft
dont get too excited to flame. i got my superflex joints in the mail later that day and built my front shaft......its now in....
