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My truck is NOT wandering anymore! Thanks guys. Truck is back from shop
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DK5
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Apparently a diesel steering box is different than the one in my '90...
Didn't know that.
I've been doing some research and apparently the aftermarket steering boxes aren't worth having either due to faulty repairs or missing pieces...
So I need to find another Non hydroboost 4wd steering box for my '90 K5.
Q's?
-What years are interchangeable for my model blazer?
-Bolt-on steering brace from ORD? Or weld-on? I'm running 33's and won't go bigger. I don't know if there are any cracks yet.
Didn't know that.
I've been doing some research and apparently the aftermarket steering boxes aren't worth having either due to faulty repairs or missing pieces...
So I need to find another Non hydroboost 4wd steering box for my '90 K5.
Q's?
-What years are interchangeable for my model blazer?
-Bolt-on steering brace from ORD? Or weld-on? I'm running 33's and won't go bigger. I don't know if there are any cracks yet.
if your fine with used i'm sure you'll be able to find someone on here who'd help ya as everyone that goes to crossover switches to a 2wd box. dont wait on the xj shaft. that was a big improvment in mine. big big.
Didn't know that.
I've been doing some research and apparently the aftermarket steering boxes aren't worth having either due to faulty repairs or missing pieces...
So I need to find another Non hydroboost 4wd steering box for my '90 K5.
Q's?
-What years are interchangeable for my model blazer?
-Bolt-on steering brace from ORD? Or weld-on? I'm running 33's and won't go bigger. I don't know if there are any cracks yet.
*Edited, see a few posts below*
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If your frame isn't cracked just go with the ORD bolt on brace. Love mine...but be aware with the newer trucks there's less clearance up there than the illustrations in the instructions show.
DK5
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Any steering box from an '80-91 2WD truck with the old body style like yours. Diesel/hydroboost/1 ton, doesn't matter, they all use the same box. The differences are in the way the hoses seal and the input shaft, but like I said 80 and newer and you'll be good
So an '80 and newer 2wd box should be the same as my '90 steering box? Hoses and all?
There are a couple trucks sitting here in town, one is a 2wd and one is a 4wd... both half tons.. I'll see what I can find out.
Thanks for the advice. I'll check for cracks as soon as I can.
Any advice for the XJ shaft? Should be an easy bolt in?
I wonder if any of the shops mentioned the oil leakage around the box,I dont recall reading so,but I may have missed it??....I have seen some GM P/S boxes get loose at the pitman shaft bushing and any play there not only lets the linkage slop around a bit,it also can change the lash between the pitman shaft gear and the gear it meshes with,which is part of the spool valve ,isn't it??...that can make for unpredictable steering too...but my plow truck has done that steering thing before and it was seized axle u-joints that got stif after sitting idle a long time..soon as they freed up it steered normal again.....
I have simply replaced "bad" boxes with salvage yard ones,that didn't look leaky or have 300K on them and have had good luck with them...I dont think I'd trust myself rebuilding a box,plus the case can wear too,and new "guts" wont cure that,as the rebuilt ones are proving..far as I know the only difference in diesels P/S is the pump has a different housing with more return line nipples for the hydroboost,that holds a bit more fluid than a gasser,and the pimp is tweaked to run slightly higher pressure...
I have simply replaced "bad" boxes with salvage yard ones,that didn't look leaky or have 300K on them and have had good luck with them...I dont think I'd trust myself rebuilding a box,plus the case can wear too,and new "guts" wont cure that,as the rebuilt ones are proving..far as I know the only difference in diesels P/S is the pump has a different housing with more return line nipples for the hydroboost,that holds a bit more fluid than a gasser,and the pimp is tweaked to run slightly higher pressure...
DK5
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Any steering box from an '80-91 2WD truck with the old body style like yours. Diesel/hydroboost/1 ton, doesn't matter, they all use the same box. The differences are in the way the hoses seal and the input shaft, but like I said 80 and newer and you'll be good
Do you know for sure if I can modify my '88 diesel hydroboost steering box to fit in my '90 TBI?
I should apologize, I get so caught up in explaining crossover steering to people all the time.
You want an '80 and newer 4WD box, the 2WD box is for crossover steering.
Steering boxes aren't different between hydroboost and vacuum brakes.
You want an '80 and newer 4WD box, the 2WD box is for crossover steering.
Steering boxes aren't different between hydroboost and vacuum brakes.
DK5
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The challenge that I'm having is that one truck is 50 miles away and the other is in my parent's back yard. So I can't compare the differences between them. 
Do they look identical? Anyone know?
I'm at my parent's place now, so I'll pull the steering box and head back into the city tomorrow. Pull the one on the '90, check for cracks, compare the two and go from there.
Sounds like a plan.
Do they look identical? Anyone know?
I'm at my parent's place now, so I'll pull the steering box and head back into the city tomorrow. Pull the one on the '90, check for cracks, compare the two and go from there.
Sounds like a plan.
The "pitman shaft" (i.e. sector shaft) meshes with teeth on the piston. Here's a cut-away diagram showing this:
The spool valve is up front, attached to the input shaft (it has to have your input torque to know where to direct the oil). I would rather have a junkyard box than a re-manufactured one. If it wasn't assembled in Saginaw it probably wasn't done right.
This shows how the recirculation ball bearings work:
This site shows how the box works mechanically (this is a non-integral or non power steering gear): http://www.stangerssite.com/HowItWorksSteeringBox.html
Sorry if I have strayed from the topic.
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TheBeast_88K5
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Sweet diagram!
DK5
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I wish mine looked that good..
Well I got the box off the diesel K5. Going to clean it up and bring it to the city soon.
Man that thing is heavy, going to be hard to put it back on by myself..
Well I got the box off the diesel K5. Going to clean it up and bring it to the city soon.
Man that thing is heavy, going to be hard to put it back on by myself..
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I used tie-downs to remove or install my steering box.
(That's a LOT of times.)
Use the ratchet kind.
Attach one hook to the Core Support.
Then wrap the strap around the box.
Other hook attaches to fender.
Then just guide/ratchet it into position.
Works the same in reverse!
Work smarter, not harder.
(That's a LOT of times.)
Use the ratchet kind.
Attach one hook to the Core Support.
Then wrap the strap around the box.
Other hook attaches to fender.
Then just guide/ratchet it into position.
Works the same in reverse!
Work smarter, not harder.
DK5
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Took the truck for a test drive with the diesel steering box in (just finished today)
And still having the same problem!
Truck pulls to the right and then lets go suddenly and then repeats
Whats left?!
New Steering damper is next on my list. Any other suggestions??
Side note:
I want to thank you guys one more time for your help. NAPA wanted $900 to swap in a new steering box because "that is the problem everything else checks out fine". Without CK5 I'd have had to needlessly spend large amounts of money and still have the same problem. Instead, I learned about my truck (spent a lot of time on it) and maybe spent $30 on odds and ends. Hell of a lot better than $900
just for stock steering stuff and still have a steering problem!
And still having the same problem!
Truck pulls to the right and then lets go suddenly and then repeats
Whats left?!
New Steering damper is next on my list. Any other suggestions??
Side note:
I want to thank you guys one more time for your help. NAPA wanted $900 to swap in a new steering box because "that is the problem everything else checks out fine". Without CK5 I'd have had to needlessly spend large amounts of money and still have the same problem. Instead, I learned about my truck (spent a lot of time on it) and maybe spent $30 on odds and ends. Hell of a lot better than $900
just for stock steering stuff and still have a steering problem!
I wish you were a bit closer man! I'd definitely come on over and take a look... Samskratchewan is a bit too far to drive though....
DK5
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LoL! I appreciate the thought Russ! 
I agree 13hrs is a bit of a drive to take a look... of course I'd have ya help with the diesel swap too while you were down.. 
I agree 13hrs is a bit of a drive to take a look... of course I'd have ya help with the diesel swap too while you were down.. 
I know this is probably old stuff, but I went back and reread all the threads, and never saw where you replaced the U-Joints in the front axles.
Even with the hubs unlocked and in 2wd, they will still often turn due to grease friction.
And if they are binding, they can cause the steering problems.
You say it pulls to the right, releases, and then does it again.
How fast? And does the rate change with vehicle speed?
The next thing I would do, is jack up the right front, and spin the tire to see if there is anything binding.
Try it with the tire straight ahead and turned.
Also get someone to drive another vehicle while a passenger watches the wheels and all parts as you drive looking for any wobble or wiggle.
Also, just because someone repacked the wheel bearings, don't assume that they are good.
But, you should feel something when you spin the wheel.
Even with the hubs unlocked and in 2wd, they will still often turn due to grease friction.
And if they are binding, they can cause the steering problems.
You say it pulls to the right, releases, and then does it again.
How fast? And does the rate change with vehicle speed?
The next thing I would do, is jack up the right front, and spin the tire to see if there is anything binding.
Try it with the tire straight ahead and turned.
Also get someone to drive another vehicle while a passenger watches the wheels and all parts as you drive looking for any wobble or wiggle.
Also, just because someone repacked the wheel bearings, don't assume that they are good.
But, you should feel something when you spin the wheel.
MrSchaeferPants
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Just started to read this after your other post to see what was going on. Am I reading this right, it pulls then lets go? Was there ever a brake check? Going straight, or trying to turn or does it during both? And was there talk about a hydroboost? Is or was it installed?
Fordum brings up a good point... Make sure you don't have a hub stuck locked in, or a bad axle u-joint. Both make your steering really wonky!
