Need 4-link calculator help ,

[ktmoutfront]

And gets pushed by a bus full of nuns.

 

[sreidmx]

Nuns are better in snow than most dogs..

 

[jekquistk5]

Nuns are better in snow than most dogs..

Mush?

 

[Stephen]

Bushings on one end of the upper link of the radius arm , all other points will be 1.25" heims

When I do the LS swap I will doing new exhaust and at that point I will change over to the 3-link as planned .


@Stephen on your new rear 4-link kit are you able to fit coilovers under the body or do you have to cut wheelwells?

Shocks pretty well have to go through the inner fender no matter what but it doesn't have to be crazy:

This is Fred Williams' Alaskabama Army Truck. We cut out more inner fender than we had to just because it didn't matter that much and we were in a big hurry but the hole could be smaller and a hose remote shock gets rid of the extra hole size to stay away from the piggyback too. It wouldn't be hard to close it in more if necessary with some plastic or rubber sheet. There are some more pics here:
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/ORD2/library/Alaskabama Army Truck?sort=3&page=1

If I were you I'd consider some big johnny joints or my favorite urethane spherical which is the Summit Machine flex joint. There's no shank so they weld right to the tube and the really important thing is that they are greasable and seal up pretty tight so dirt won't get in. And have a threaded adjuster and when that's bottomed out they cost about $12 to rebuild.

 

[yellowK20]

Shocks pretty well have to go through the inner fender no matter what but it doesn't have to be crazy:

This is Fred Williams' Alaskabama Army Truck. We cut out more inner fender than we had to just because it didn't matter that much and we were in a big hurry but the hole could be smaller and a hose remote shock gets rid of the extra hole size to stay away from the piggyback too. It wouldn't be hard to close it in more if necessary with some plastic or rubber sheet. There are some more pics here:
http://s1181.photobucket.com/user/ORD2/library/Alaskabama Army Truck?sort=3&page=1

If I were you I'd consider some big johnny joints or my favorite urethane spherical which is the Summit Machine flex joint. There's no shank so they weld right to the tube and the really important thing is that they are greasable and seal up pretty tight so dirt won't get in. And have a threaded adjuster and when that's bottomed out they cost about $12 to rebuild.

Sorry I meant your new rear kit,