You know your shits pretty when you put rags on the lift heads. 
CK5
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Need a new transmission crossmember
- Thread starter Shawn
- Start date
I can't bring myself to put the first scratch in it yet haha. On a side note is anyone running the lokar shift cable assembly on their 4l80's?
Thinking about using this for my floor shifter when I do the rebuild.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/311910520579?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
Hey guys! I should be back up and running on a limited basis in the next day or two finally. Is there any interest in these tranny crossmembers still? I'd like to get one of you to take some careful measurements with me for a bolt-in solution for the 4L65e and the 4L80e with the LS's. The one in the picture earlier in this thread was a more universal setup that wasn't specific. Let me know!!
-Darren
-Darren
I’m still interested in the 4l80 version!
That's one version we need to figure out measurements on. I'm sorry that I don't remember, but are you using my LS mounts, or someone else's? And where are you in your build? Can you measure where the 4l80 mounts are in relation to the factory crossmember holes yet?
I think we need to measure installed location of the trans. Hopefully with my motor mounts so everything lines up when I sell them as a set. I need to do more research on the differences between the older and newer transmissions myself. I've done a few swaps with LS's mating up to factory transmissions, and then some with custom setups. The last one was with a 4L65 but it was a custom flat crossmember because we clocked the t-case up so high. I have yet to do a 4L80 and LS with factory accessories, etc...
-Darren
How wide is crossmember (front to back)?
I may be interested in a trans crossmember pending a price. If I did get one I’d also want a completely flat one for behind the tcase. (4spd w/Doubler)
I may be interested in a trans crossmember pending a price. If I did get one I’d also want a completely flat one for behind the tcase. (4spd w/Doubler)
I would need some basic measurements - if you are really thinking of tossing the trans in there PM me and I'll throw a drawing together with some blanks for the measurements I would need. I'd hate to ask you to go through the trouble of that just for me though. But if you planning on putting it in for mock-up anyways then that would be great!
The current "universal" one I have is 31-5/8" frame hole to frame hole. They are not angled like the frame is either. I did that years ago for a couple rigs - one had a driver drop t-case, the other a pass drop t-case. That way I could just make 2 and put one in one way and the other a mirror image. I've sold a few of them since, because I already had the design, but it's not ideal for everyone. It was a compromise back then and still is now. I'd like to get something more specific designed.
Too late
I was planning to mock it up to build a crossmember myself anyway, but I don’t really trust my fabrication skills. You just caught me at a good time. Ha!
I'll send you a message with a file showing the dims I'll need in a minute...
My crossmember(s) are all going to be designed to use a factory mount. I may end up designing a factory replacement mount that uses standard poly bushings like I used to make for the Jeep XJ's. Worked really good for them, should work good for our Squares too. But then you won't have to run my mount, you could use factory, or any other replacement you want.
-Darren
I measured my frame width on the outside where the crossmember will be mouned. The frame gets wider in that area. Starts at 35" and 36" towards the rear. This is for the 4L80E with NP205, longer alum ORD adapter. Looking forward to getting the x-member from TNA!
Here is the design I started on this morning. This one is wider to compensate for the added frame width when the crossmember needs to be moved back for the 4L80. I'm still nailing down dimensions and hopefully can get some more from other members here to verify what I've already got.
-Darren
-Darren
Just pm’d you some measurements. I asked in the pm but will any of the original bolt holes be utilized?
I'm leaning towards having you guys drill holes in the frame - moving the whole crossmember back and keeping it in a straight line across the frame will be the best way I think. If it were to be forward in the factory location with just the trans mount plate moved back, we run the risk of interfering with the trans pan and front driveshaft. If we were to make frame mounts in the factory location and then have the crossmember angle back to the trans mount, it gets more complex to make, uses more steel, and gets more costly while putting additional stress on those factory mounting holes.
I got your PM, I'll also respond there.
-Darren
@TnA what are your thought on going over the driveshaft instead of under it?
Back to the measurement, I was talking about the width of the crossmember from engine to tcase - not frame rail to frame rail.
As far as using factory mounts, would it be the pre '85 2 pc style or the '85+ 1 pc style? Or could you go with a universal bushing? Both the factory 2 pc and the universal styles would require a "pocket" on the underside of the crossmember.
Edit: I got your PM but I haven't been home to take measurements. I hope to do that this weekend.
Back to the measurement, I was talking about the width of the crossmember from engine to tcase - not frame rail to frame rail.
As far as using factory mounts, would it be the pre '85 2 pc style or the '85+ 1 pc style? Or could you go with a universal bushing? Both the factory 2 pc and the universal styles would require a "pocket" on the underside of the crossmember.
Edit: I got your PM but I haven't been home to take measurements. I hope to do that this weekend.
You getting him some front driveshaft measurements? Hoping your doubler will be close to what I need for the magnum.
