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need advice about my rear diff, video...

i have to order a crush sleeve and it takes 3 days to get so im going with the solid bushing. i hope i can just change the pinion bearing and get away with that. just have to set the back lash and gear pattern.
 
6872xtc said:
Are you referring to the 12 bolt?
If so , I like the spacer, it gives good, solid torque numbers . No worries about going too far . And I hate trying to start the crush on a sleeve.
Click to expand...
do you know what the torque specs are? preload and rotational load are?
 
The specs from Yukon are 13-15 in/lbs for new bearings and 6-7 for used .
I think that I googled the torque for the nut and found specs for a Ford 9 inch.
I believe that I ended up at 75, or 100 ft/lbs, but I don't remember for sure .
 
found one that said 125 for the solid, thanks for the reply i let you know how it goes once i get all the parts
 
The problem for the torque on the pinion nut, is that normally with the crush sleeve, you go until the rolling torque is there. With the spacer of course, you need to maintain the clamp load on the bearings , and that's it....
I can't remember , but I believe that the thread and nut size is the same as a 9 inch .
 
got my tools today magnetic base dial indicator, inch pound torque wrench,and a slide hammer with like 10 attachments to it. now i just have to wait for my solid bushing and marking compound.
 
I have to ask , do you realize that the rolling torque is for just the pinion bearings? We're you planning on pulling he carrier out to get the correct numbers , or try to get there with the added drag of the carrier ?
 
well you have to pull the carrier out to change the bearings anyway and i found out the front diff is not posi like i was told.
 
and im still watching videos on how to do this. its my first time changing the pinion bearing so I am at a loss for what to do but i cant afford to pay 985 to the mechanic to fix it.
 
there is an inner and outer pinion bearing and when you change them you have to check gear tooth pattern and rotational load, at least thats what im told
 
Kain said:
well you have to pull the carrier out to change the bearings anyway and i found out the front diff is not posi like i was told.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I forgot that you were changing the bearings . ...
Sounds like you are on track...
 
i hope i dont have to order gears if i do major suck then ill change the carrier bearings too. i just put in axle bearings when i did axle seals the axle bearings fell out when i pulled the axle.
 
As long as your in there I'd plan for the worst and have a set of carrier bearings, wheel bearings, axle seals, and a shim stack. Better to have the parts and be able to return them than not have them and end up having to wait on them (doubly important if you are working on your daily driver, lol). You should be able to tell how bad your gears are once you get the diff cover off and if they are toast and you need to order a set I'd stop, put your gasket on and seal it back and put some lube in it and just hold off until your replacement gear set arrive and then revisit. You gotta figure you are pulling the whole axle apart just to get to that pinion and that is a measure of wear so anything else could likely be as worn. Also, keep in mind that your going to want to have all your fresh gear oil and a good gasket for the rear (use silicone sparingly) and a few cans of your favorite carb cleaner and some shop rags or paper towels to help with clean up inside the carrier (and you work area).
 
ya i have everything but gears , hope it is not that bad but if it is fix it while i have the money
 
well the gears front and rear are the same according tho the red neck way of checking. there not 373
 
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