Need advice on a locker for the rear differential

[clandr1]

Hello everyone. I'm a long time K5 enthusiast (drove an '87 in high school from 96-98) and I just bought an '89 Jimmy last month to use as a camping & hunting rig so I don't get my daily driver messed up.

Here's my dilemma: I've been doing research and I'm trying to decide on what to replace my rear locker with. I have a 10 bolt from the factory with the Gov-Lock, which I thought was awesome until I logged on here and realized it's the Glock pistol of the differential locking world

So, I'm debating between getting a Powertrax No-Slip 92-0785-3005 (I've heard the Lock Rights pop and I'm looking for something a little more well mannered) and a Detroit locker (187C148A). I've seen the Powertrax for around $450 and the Detroit is around $600.

My question is, which is the better deal? Should I spend the extra $150 and get the Detroit? Or save my money and get the Powertrax? Keep in mind that I'm not going to be hardcore offroading, I just don't want to get stuck in the mud. No rock climbing or truck pull competitions

Opinions and thoughts are welcomed, and if I have the wrong part numbers for each item please let me know. I'm still pretty new to this.

I'm planning on eventually locking the front, but given the threads I've read I'm going to wait until I can save up and get an ARB air locker so I can pick and choose from the cab on the front depending on trail conditions.

Thanks in advance, and I plan to become a paying member shortly after the first of the month.

Obligatory pic: Brand new 2.5" superlift with 33x10.50x15 BFG AT's. I've had this truck for a month replacing window motors, replacing fluids, and fixing the speedometer cable among other things. I just got the lift and tires installed this past weekend and it's nice to finally enjoy it from behind the wheel instead of under the truck

 

[wheels87k5]

I voted for the Power Trax because I have one in my 10b and like it....I never hear it popping or clicking.

The gearing in my 87 Blazer is 4:10 rear and 3:42 front so I don't do any 4x4 stuff....But with the Power Trax it gave me great traction in what little snow we had here, so no complaints.

I haven't regeared the front because I bought a Dana 60/14bff combo to put under it. The dana 60 has the trac lock, and the 14bff has the Detroit. It will be interesting to see or feel the difference between the two lockers.

From all the search I've done on here, the detroit is the most common. And I don't think you can go wrong on either choice.

Wheels

 

[tRustyK5]

I spent several years with a Detroit in the rear of my old K5...so I'm going with a full case Detroit in the 10 bolt under my current K5. As long as you go with something that is full case it'll all be good IMO. No real choice when replacing the Gov-bomb, as you can't even install a drop in locker in that carrier.

Nice looking K5 BTW...very clean looking!

Rene

 

[76zimmer]

I have used a couple lockrights in D44's and only get a clicking when rounding a tight corner, and no throttle....if you use throttle it will lock up and try to spin the inside tire....just be aware of that....typical with most "lockers" but not limited slips or posi units though.

 

[clandr1]

Thank you for all the input so far.

I spent several years with a Detroit in the rear of my old K5...so I'm going with a full case Detroit in the 10 bolt under my current K5. As long as you go with something that is full case it'll all be good IMO. No real choice when replacing the Gov-bomb, as you can't even install a drop in locker in that carrier.

Nice looking K5 BTW...very clean looking!

Rene

Thanks for the compliment, I had to do some rust busting and repainting on the roof & tailgate -- the previous owner didn't drive it much, and the interior is in great shape, but he left it outside ALL THE TIME. I had to deal with some surface rust and faded carpet but it's all original and there isn't a leak on the truck, with the exception of some coolant leaking from the passenger side of the bottom of the radiator which I plan on replacing soon.

To your comment, I have a question (total newbie here): when you refer to getting a "full case", do you mean something that replaces the actual differential housing and cover, or something internally related to the gears & locker? Or is it just a feature of the locker itself that I need to pay attention to when I order one?

Oh, and a side note to y5mgisi if you make it back in this thread -- I tried responding to your email but you have emails blocked and I can't figure out how to send a private message. Email me direct at cwlander(at)gmail(dot)com and I'll be glad to answer your question.

 

[tRustyK5]

This pic will help some...

This is an open carrier, the ring gear bolts too it, and on the inside you'll see 4 smaller gears called spider gears.

Here is an open carrier with a Lock Rite installed...this is a Drop-in, or Lunchbox locker and you can see it replaces the spider gears.

Here is a full case Detroit for a 10 bolt. You can see it completely replaces the stock open carrier. This is what we call a "Full case" locker.

Hopefully all the pics work.

anyways, the full case lockers are stronger than the factory open carrier...so you get a locker, and remove a known weak link. It's not common, but carriers can break...

Rene

 

[clandr1]

That's awesome, I love pictures! So much easier to understand

Thanks for the info. Although after poking around on 4 Wheel Parts website I'm debating saving up to get Eaton E-Lockers.

It's quite a bit of of money but that would be perfect for having instant control over many different options for the front and rear diffs. I guess I just need to decide how capable I want to make this rig and how much money I'm willing to spend.

 

[tRustyK5]

That is the eternal debate. You want bigger, better, stronger, more capable...but at the same time how much bigger, better, stronger do you need for how you want to use the truck? There isn't a right answer...

I'm pretty much doing the same thing myself. Found a good deal on a rear Detroit for a 10 bolt, so that decision is made. The big debate for me is up front...open? LSD? Drop-in?

Kinda thinking limited slip right now...gotta see what the pricing looks like though.

Rene

 

[jms]

... I guess I just need to decide how capable I want to make this rig...

It's a slippery slope, and it'll start with the word "14-bolt"...

 

[76zimmer]

I think it might start snowing in Dallas!

 

[clandr1]

It's a slippery slope, and it'll start with the word "14-bolt"...

I keep telling myself I'm going to keep it all stock, but my wallet has heard that before...

Oh, and here are some pictures of how it looked when I bought it, and some of the work I've done.

Used stock rally wheels, 4 for $80 on craigslist

And again after some work:

The brake fluid was awesome...

 

[496truck]

I voted for the Detroit or some other full case style locker. For the simple fact that you would have to replace the carrier for the Powertrax anyways. 2 birds, one stone, that sort of thing.

As long as you're checking out lockers and such I'll mention this. For the way you use your truck, check out the Detroit Tru Trac. I used one of these in a Camaro I built and loved it. It's less expensive than a selectable locker, no clutches to wear out like a traditional posi carrier, and completely smooth in operation. For the intended purpose of your truck I would highly recommend the Tru Trac for the rear axle. Put it in (or have it installed) and forget about it. Do a selectable locker in the front for those sticky situations.

Something else to consider, gears. If you're running 33" tires you should be thinking of re gearing the axles to at least a 3:73 ratio if not up to 4:10.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

That's awesome, I love pictures! So much easier to understand

Thanks for the info. Although after poking around on 4 Wheel Parts website I'm debating saving up to get Eaton E-Lockers.

It's quite a bit of of money but that would be perfect for having instant control over many different options for the front and rear diffs. I guess I just need to decide how capable I want to make this rig and how much money I'm willing to spend.

FWIW I'd highly recommend not getting your stuff from 4 Wheel Parts. There are plenty of vendors on here that will treat you right but for example here is PORC.

 

[clandr1]

FWIW I'd highly recommend not getting your stuff from 4 Wheel Parts. There are plenty of vendors on here that will treat you right but for example here is PORC.

I guess I should've clarified that I wouldn't buy from them, I was just using their website to check out a few things. Thanks for the head's up and I'll make sure to check the CK5 vendors when I'm ready to buy.

I voted for the Detroit or some other full case style locker. For the simple fact that you would have to replace the carrier for the Powertrax anyways. 2 birds, one stone, that sort of thing.

As long as you're checking out lockers and such I'll mention this. For the way you use your truck, check out the Detroit Tru Trac. I used one of these in a Camaro I built and loved it. It's less expensive than a selectable locker, no clutches to wear out like a traditional posi carrier, and completely smooth in operation. For the intended purpose of your truck I would highly recommend the Tru Trac for the rear axle. Put it in (or have it installed) and forget about it. Do a selectable locker in the front for those sticky situations.

Something else to consider, gears. If you're running 33" tires you should be thinking of re gearing the axles to at least a 3:73 ratio if not up to 4:10.

Yeah, I'd seen that tru trac but wasn't sure about it. I'll have to check it out because the price is certainly right.

As for increasing the gear ratios, what will that do for me? Better acceleration or higher top end speed? I know the rear is 3.42 according to the RPO code, but I have no idea on the front.

 

[496truck]

Front should be the same as the rear as long as it is original.

Having the proper gears in the axles to go with the height of whatever tires you are using is key to many things. Proper driveability (acceleration from a stop/engine RPM at cruising speed), less stress on the transmission and other drivetrain components are just a couple examples.

 

[k5zombie666]

Go with the truetrac. I had one put in my 87 k5 with 4.56 gears works really good. Im about to put one in the front diff too.