OK not to step on any toes here but those arm will not bottom out before hitting the springs.
CK5
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need advice on fixing POs ghetto crossover steering...
- Thread starter loren
- Start date
OK not to step on any toes here but those arm will not bottom out before hitting the springs.
Clearance with the spring doesn't seem to be a problem, doesn't seem like it would take much suspension travel to exceed the angular capacity of that heim joint.
loren
1/2 ton status
OK not to step on any toes here but those arm will not bottom out before hitting the springs.
What do you mean? What would hit the springs?
It won't hit the springs, I just said the the arm will not bottom out because before that happens it will have to hit the springs. Look at the alignment and for that cross over to hit the edge of the arm where it's NOT tapered the rod will need to go down beyond the spring, just look at your first post.
Whatever
I just want more pictures of this thing.
I just want more pictures of this thing.
hahaha 
Proper u bolt location on a 60 and i run my stock location tie rod. here are a few pics to help you figure out what you need to correct.
You know what's crazy. I actually was looking at this blazer hardcore a few weeks ago. Even made a thread about it in the first gen section. I saw the picture of the front and thougt it was kinda jacked. Glad to see someone bought it who can fix it up correctly.
loren
1/2 ton status
Yeah, I figured somebody around here had seen it. Was on craigslist for weeks, listed at a price I've seen many stock (or near stock) first gens go for.. really good deal
one of these days I'll have to head over after work. Hopefully traffic doesn't suck that day leaving LA. 
84CUCV
3/4 ton status
you could also take a look at WFO crossover.. the one im buying
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Default.aspx
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Default.aspx
thats what I run on my truck WFO is good stuff.
loren
1/2 ton status
Alright, after all of the helpful advice here, I've settled on two possible solutions. I'd like to fix this on the cheap, meaning re-use as many parts as possible. Also, I don't have access to a welder (unfortunately), so that my sway my decision.
1) Keep current tie rod, move it to stock location (knuckles), swap out heims with dana 60 hd TREs (2010R and ES 2010L), ditch flat steering arms and replace passenger with tapered arm. Tie rod length may be an issue, but this is where things get interesting. Current tie rod length is 52.5" center-to-center with the heims. Driver heim is threaded out .75", passenger is not threaded out. Knuckle center-to-center is currently 54.5", which seems a bit short based on what I've read. So either I'm measuring incorrectly (center-to-center instead of end-to-end) or I've got some crazy toe-in going on here... Anyway, what I'm thinking is I could thread the new TREs out 1-1.5" or so on each side, which should give me the length I'm looking for without sacrificing strength (threads are 3" long on these). The major benefit to keeping my tie rod (besides not having to purchase a new one) is that it already has the tabs welded for hydro assist. With a new tie rod, I would have to ditch the hydro assist for now since no welder.
2) Ditch flat steering arms, buy pass and driver tapered arms for high steer setup, keep current tie rod and move to high steer arms, possible swap heims to tie rod ends. I'm honestly not sure why this wasn't done to begin with as it certainly looks like that was the goal.. The downside here is that I would have to ditch hydro assist (for now), but I'm sure I'd be fine without it for daily driving.
Any thoughts? Am I overlooking anything here? I'm leaning towards option 1 if it I can salvage the current tie rod. It wouldn't be tooo pricey (one new arm and 2 TREs), and I would be able to keep hydro assist. Also, I know high steer can put additional stress on the knuckles, and it seems a bit excessive for my purpose.
1) Keep current tie rod, move it to stock location (knuckles), swap out heims with dana 60 hd TREs (2010R and ES 2010L), ditch flat steering arms and replace passenger with tapered arm. Tie rod length may be an issue, but this is where things get interesting. Current tie rod length is 52.5" center-to-center with the heims. Driver heim is threaded out .75", passenger is not threaded out. Knuckle center-to-center is currently 54.5", which seems a bit short based on what I've read. So either I'm measuring incorrectly (center-to-center instead of end-to-end) or I've got some crazy toe-in going on here... Anyway, what I'm thinking is I could thread the new TREs out 1-1.5" or so on each side, which should give me the length I'm looking for without sacrificing strength (threads are 3" long on these). The major benefit to keeping my tie rod (besides not having to purchase a new one) is that it already has the tabs welded for hydro assist. With a new tie rod, I would have to ditch the hydro assist for now since no welder.
2) Ditch flat steering arms, buy pass and driver tapered arms for high steer setup, keep current tie rod and move to high steer arms, possible swap heims to tie rod ends. I'm honestly not sure why this wasn't done to begin with as it certainly looks like that was the goal.. The downside here is that I would have to ditch hydro assist (for now), but I'm sure I'd be fine without it for daily driving.
Any thoughts? Am I overlooking anything here? I'm leaning towards option 1 if it I can salvage the current tie rod. It wouldn't be tooo pricey (one new arm and 2 TREs), and I would be able to keep hydro assist. Also, I know high steer can put additional stress on the knuckles, and it seems a bit excessive for my purpose.
mwood1985
1/2 ton status
two words bud.....more and women
loren
1/2 ton status
See if anyone on here has a stock tie rod for a 60. I have a spare but im far away.
Quoted for truth.....
In about a year, I'm going to bump this thread and ask you if you feel the same way about the P.O. and the "deal" you got on this truck.
Most of us have been where you are now.... Buying a new K5 project with stars in our eyes about how great everything is, and how much "good stuff" the truck has. Over the coming months some of that "shine" wears off as you learn more about what's really going on.
That steering setup is a perfect example. You got a truck with "crossover and high-steer" on it, but in reality you will probably end up throwing all of that away (or at least you should!
) to install a safe, correctly engineered solution. You may be tempted to ditch the hydro-assist to save money on the rebuild but there's a good chance that you'll end up with death wobble without it. Even freshly rebuilt D60s will get death wobble, and that D60 is clearly not "fresh" anyway.Not trying to be a bummer, but that steering is downright dangerous.... Don't play games or shave dollars on something as important as steering (safety). Fix it right and give yourself some peace of mind.
-G
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loren
1/2 ton status
Quoted for truth.....
In about a year, I'm going to bump this thread and ask you if you feel the same way about the P.O. and the "deal" you got on this truck.
Most of us have been where you are now.... Buying a new K5 project with stars in our eyes about how great everything is, and how much "good stuff" the truck has. Over the coming months some of that "shine" wears off as you learn more about what's really going on.
That steering setup is a perfect example. You got a truck with "crossover and high-steer" on it, but in reality you will probably end up throwing all of that away (or at least you should!
Not trying to be a bummer, but that steering is downright dangerous.... Don't play games or shave dollars on something as important as steering (safety). Fix it right and give yourself some peace of mind.
-G
Haha I hear ya, and I appreciate the words of wisdom. Don't get me wrong, I'm not totally oblivious - I went into this anticipating problems and surprises. What can you expect from a 40 yr old vehicle that has likely had numerous careless owners?
Regarding the steering, it's really not that big a deal. To be honest, I shamefully admit that I didn't even know what crossover and high steer where when I bought the truck a week ago. I've heard the terms before and probably read up on them a couple years ago, but never having owned a solid axle vehicle, it wasn't my primary concern when purchasing the vehicle. 'Crossover and high-steer' weren't even mentioned in the ad, nor were they discussed when I purchased the truck. The PO mentioned that it could be converted to high steer, but I wasn't really sure what he was talking about (and I don't think he knew what hew as talking about either). With that, it's not like I valued the truck with the steering components factored in. The steering didn't matter to me, as long as it turned and got me home, and it did just that.
Given my current situation, this is exactly the vehicle for me. It's something that I can fix with basic tools, mechanical know-how, elbow grease and limited space. I wanted something between a rust bucket and a show truck, and that's exactly what I got. My head is not in the clouds
Awesome build btw. I might have to borrow the jackstand 2x4 idea. Looks solid.
It would not cost much to fix the crappy cross over.
wfo sells just the passenger side arm. i have some studs for a 60 arm if u want them.
wfo sells just the passenger side arm. i have some studs for a 60 arm if u want them.
