need advice on fixing POs ghetto crossover steering...

[loren]

I'm new to solid front axles and crossover steering, so go easy . Just picked up a 72 blazer that has: Dana 60 up front (dodge I believe), crossover steering with heims all around, steering arms that appear to be intended for a high steer setup, and hydro assist (which is leaking somewhere).

Everything seems to be in working order, but I'm wondering about this setup since I haven't seen anything like it. There are arms on both knuckles which points to a high steer setup, but this is definitely not high steer as the tie rod is below the leafs, right?

Notice the 2" sleeves/spacers that drop the tie rod down. Is it safe to drive with these? I'm wondering why the PO attached the tie rod to the steering arms instead of the knuckle? Was it for additional clearance, mayebe? And why not just go full high steer if the components are there?

Drivers side:

Passenger side:

Heims:

Top view of drivers steering arm:

 

[rampage]

I'm not an expert on crossover/high steering but I'd say we have a scary steering winner
It also looks like your passenger side spring plate is loose. Kinda like the inside was tightened first and then the outside, making it sit crooked. Maybe that's just an illusion though.
Edit: also noticed that the passenger outside u-bolt should be around that lip on the housing.

 

[loren]

I'm not an expert on crossover/high steering but I'd say we have a scary steering winner
It also looks like your passenger side spring plate is loose. Kinda like the inside was tightened first and then the outside, making it sit crooked. Maybe that's just an illusion though.

I think it's an illusion..?

FWIW both plates are technically 'crooked' since the knuckles lean in (negative camber?) by design. Based on my limited research, it seems like this is usually corrected by tapered steering arms. My limited research also tells me that straight arms are okay for heims, while tapered arms are recommended for ball joint ends.

 

[loren]

nd then the outside, making it sit crooked. Maybe that's just an illusion though.
Edit: also noticed that the passenger outside u-bolt should be around that lip on the housing.

Hmm yeah that seems like it'd make sense... added that to my list of things to research/fix for this awesome rig

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I think it's an illusion..?

FWIW both plates are technically 'crooked' since the knuckles lean in (negative camber?) by design. Based on my limited research, it seems like this is usually corrected by tapered steering arms. My limited research also tells me that straight arms are okay for heims, while tapered arms are recommended for ball joint ends.

Nope, the flat arms are wrong no matter what rod end you're using. As it sits, it wouldn't be hard to bottom out those heims.

What you have is totally ghetto fab and I would start over from scratch, I don't think there's anything there worth using (the heims would be ok if they're still in ok shape).

 

[loren]

Nope, the flat arms are wrong no matter what rod end you're using. As it sits, it wouldn't be hard to bottom out those heims.

Thanks for the input! So what are flat arms used for, and why are they sold..?

What you have is totally ghetto fab and I would start over from scratch, I don't think there's anything there worth using (the heims would be ok if they're still in ok shape).

Scratch? Seems excessive... couldn't I use the holes on the knuckles for the stock TREs? Or swap out the arms with some tapered ones and go with a proper high steer setup?

 

[sweetk30]

some people want cheep fast cash and dont care so thay make flat arms with no correction built in to them for the steering angles needed. thats why there is flat arm's .

if me sell that stuff and start over to be 100% safe on the street. someone with a trail only rig would buy this stuff.

if me and dont need it just do crossover and reg tie rod location.

ord has super nice stuff. i would get pass side arm for crossover and new drag link. ( check your steering arm if drilled out for hiem need new )

then get a hd tie rod thay offer and bolt that on in stock location.

get buddy and tape measure and set the toe 1/4" to 1/2" in and center the steering wheel with drag link and good to go.

the stock style tie rod ends thay offer work a lot better for dd use and easy of maintance.

there dana 60 steering page http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Thanks for the input! So what are flat arms used for, and why are they sold..?

They're sold super cheap by companies that don't have the machine capability to build them right. With a flat arm you're starting ~10 degrees in the hole and with your amount of lift they will bottom out.l

Scratch? Seems excessive... couldn't I use the holes on the knuckles for the stock TREs? Or swap out the arms with some tapered ones and go with a proper high steer setup?

Yes, you can definitely move the tie rod (the piece that attaches one knuckle to the other) to the stock location. If you want to use those heims, you'll have to drill the knuckle for a straight hole and the tube will need to be longer.

The cheapest/easiest way to make what you have work would be to get a longer tie rod and drill out the knuckles and move the tie rod to the stock location, buy a passenger side steering arm that is machined for the kingpin axis, and and get some shorter misalignment spacers (the spacers on either side of the hiem joint, the draglink needs two, the tie rod needs zero).

 

[K85 Octane]

wow, people who do this kind of stuff AND have a D60, should be slapped and have their D60 taken away from them. They are not worthy.

Also, YES, your passenger side U-bolt plate is wrong. The U-bolt should be right next to the spring pack and under the axle housing, NOT the tube. Both plates are made, not factory.

I would scrap the entire thing.
U-bolts
Plates
all steering arms
all steering rods
and any good feelings you have about the truck until a thorough inspection

 

[loren]

i didn't even show you guys the rear yet!!

looks like i'll be redoing lots of questionable work on this rig... good news i got a great deal on the truck - even after all of this, i'll still come out ahead. OP bought it basically stock with a 6" lift and 383 stroker, then dropped in the dana 60 with eaton elocker as well as a dana 70 with detroit in the rear, 488 gears in both.... after all that, ended up selling it for the same price he bought it for.

 

[rampage]

I think it's an illusion..?

FWIW both plates are technically 'crooked' since the knuckles lean in (negative camber?) by design. Based on my limited research, it seems like this is usually corrected by tapered steering arms. My limited research also tells me that straight arms are okay for heims, while tapered arms are recommended for ball joint ends.

I'm refering to the spring plates on top of the springs. They have nothing to do with the knuckles or camber. They should be sitting flat against the spring pack. In the first pic it looks like I can see daylight under the spring plate which would tell me that they weren't tightened properly. Like the inside bolts were tightened first then the outside u-bolt was tightened.

 

[sweetk30]

now you say it looks like more than 1 shim or wedge under the spring and ontop of the axle pad.

need more pics of both spring packs and were thay sit.

 

[rampage]

now you say it looks like more than 1 shim or wedge under the spring and ontop of the axle pad.

need more pics of both spring packs and were thay sit.

I thought so too but thought I was imagining too many things. It looks narrower than the rest of the spring pack.

 

[loren]

Oh the spring pack? Yeah that **** is definitely goofy. There's a wedge under the plate... and it's made out of... WASHERS! Also on my list of things to fix.

 

[rampage]

Do we even want to know what the wiring looks like?

 

[loren]

Which wires are you referring to? The headlight dimmer switch was bypassed for some reason, with the headlights wired directly to the headlight switch (so high beams weren't connected). Figured the dimmer switch was bad or something (why else would they bypass it?), but I wired it up and everything seems to work?

Other than that.. basically none of the gauges are wired up... and I drove it all the way home

 

[K85 Octane]

Other than that.. basically none of the gauges are wired up... and I drove it all the way home

haha, reminds me of how I drove my blazer 260 miles home

 

[loren]

haha, reminds me of how I drove my blazer 260 miles home

Haha glad I'm not the only one! and my drive was only 180 miles

Edit: BTW I'm in LA too! Culver City / westside. Guess I should update my location, huh.

 

[Stomis]

Depending on whether you are keeping the hydro and what kinda of wheeling you do I would suggest putting the tierod in the stock location on the knuckle and just running "crossover" style steering to the passenger knuckle.


Its really funny when you buy something from someone and they think its the most pimp tricked out **** and then people with common sense and more knowledge than a trash can full of dirty diapers come in and tear it apart.

 

[loren]

Depending on whether you are keeping the hydro and what kinda of wheeling you do I would suggest putting the tierod in the stock location on the knuckle and just running "crossover" style steering to the passenger knuckle.


Its really funny when you buy something from someone and they think its the most pimp tricked out **** and then people with common sense and more knowledge than a trash can full of dirty diapers come in and tear it apart.

Thanks for chiming in. It's looking like stock tie rod location is the way to go. I might have to ditch the hydro (for now) but since I won't be doing any hardcore rock crawling, I'm sure I can live without it. My goal is a reliable daily driver and a fun weekend wheeler.

Other truck is a 2003 Suburban w/ a body lift on 35s. It sure is comfy, but I can't justify driving that beast around all day. I'm 23 years old with no kids... what do I need an 8 passenger vehicle for?