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Need advice on repairing paint and repainting fiberglass top on a '90 Jimmy 1500

The Evapo-Rust says that it's not an acid, or other things that are harmful. There's no restrictions on disposal. It's nontoxic, etc,etc. I don't have the container,it's outside in the truck or I'd be more specific.

It says that it attaches to part of the alloy and in doing so it makes the metal almost rust proof. I thought it was bull, but I decided to try it on an area that would be easy to fix. It seems to do exactly what it says. I took 1200 or 1500 and smoothed the rust surface and the paint's edge before I put the Evapo-rust on it.

My rust is just light surface rust. It's only been in snow a couple of times, if what we get can be called snow. I'm in S.C. If we do get snow, it usually stops north of Columbia and I'm S.E. so we don't get it. It's only been To Myrtle Beach twice and we can't drive on the beach unless you want to go to jail, that is. When we got back, I put a lawn sprinkler under it for a while.

The chemical reaction turns the metal black and all I'm supposed to need to do after it "kills" the rust you just wash it off. It doesn't say anything about not painting over it. I agree that it's real hard to believe. The only restriction it warns of is that the chemical reaction messes with gun bluing chemically. You can even use it on aluminum.

Because of the weather, I'm having to give it a couple of extra days. I'll check it again then. I didn't look on the net, I just read the jug. I guess that I'm going to check the web now.

Thanks a bunch, Ryoken. I really do appreciate it. I'll take your advice on the shell. I probably will smooth the surface since it's only in the center of the roof. It has been sitting for 5 + years so I was pressure washing it. The only way that I saw it was because I was standing on top of it. I'm too short to see the top.

Thanks again, Paul

P.S. I'll keep you posted on the stuff if you like and there is a pic on one of the two threads I started. I can't post pics. All I have is an old flip phone.
 
Disenough, I thought that was the case, but I didn't want to impose on you. I was going to try to get my daughter to help me, but my grandaughter is sick, so it'll be a couple/few days until I can even hope to get her.

I got 1 that I think he will be able to see the problem. Thanks, Paul
 
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I do believe that he will be able to see that. I've been looking around for the reflective "G" for my grill badge. I found the whole GMC emblem for from about $50 (knock off?) and an original assembly for about $95. I saw in another section that I'm not the only one that needs it. If you find one that's broken let me know. All I need is the reflective part of the "M". The rest of it is fine. The M must have fallen out sometime in the past. I hadn't noticed it until about 6 mos. ago.

Appreciate it, Paul
 
if it isn't actually removing the rust and leaving raw, silver steel, and turning it black instead, it's a rust converter.. that black is what they call iron tannite, what it turns the rust into... and that's fine... I use converters here and there...

everything else still applies.. when you go to prime over that, the same grit recommendations still apply... and anything else, just ask.. here, or PM if ya want...
 
Thanks, I do appreciate it. I went to their site and read all that they had to say. It's the type of thing that I wish that I'd had it years ago. It's making this tedious stuff a whole lot easier to deal with. If out temp will come up and our wind go down, I might be able to get some of these small places primed tomorrow but, we have a freeze warning for half or more of the state tonight.

If there's anything that I might be able to find down here let me know and maybe I can help you.

I've got a pool cover tarp about 50' x 70', if this keeps up, I might put up a temporary shelter.

Where have I seen that duck before?

Thanks, Paul
 
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I tend to use converters on odd things like frames, floors, etc.. job's I'm not gonna bother sandblasting... usually things like hoods, doors, etc, I'll remove the rust mechanically before priming, etc... I much prefer converters to encapsilators like POR15, rust bullet and the like....


the mallard is the same hood ornament from the movie Deathproof, and originally it came from the 70's movie Convoy.... tho I never saw Convoy...

 
Ryoken, sounds like we're on about the same page. I did check an area across the front of the metal that the hood closes down to. At sometime someone lowered the stops and it rubbed and has rusted while sitting. I wiped it down with 800 grit lightly and covered it with soaked paper towels and plastic wrap. I pulled off just a section this afternoon and had a shiny silver area. I covered it back up. If it all looks that way, I'll be one happy person.

I remember Convoy and the duck which was also his C.B. handle (Chris Christoferson?) and the duck shaking as he went through the gears. I also remember Death Trap with Curt Russell. He claimed to be a stuntman and had that Nova that he had the cage built into with the plexiglass between the driver and passenger. I wouldn't mind having that Nova.

Disenough, I don't know where my mind is/was, the letter that I need is the "M". I found a "C" in a parking lot and thought I had it. I was wrong. What's the odds, went back to a parking lot that I had been to the day before and found an unscratched from being runover "C". I didn't know where It got lost, it was a hope/WAG.

Ryoken and Disenough, I do thank both of you. Like I've said if there's any way that I can return the favors, just let me know. Dis, hold onto that piece if you can, but if you getg a chance to p/u a couple of bucks, do it. I've been toying with the Idea of casting a new set of letters that are a little different. Maybe dark gray like the shell, about the color of JB Weld putty or something like that.

Have a good one, thanks, Paul
 
Ryoken, Disenough, The weather eased off today so I was able to get some done. I removed the paper towels with the E-Rust, washed to off and sanded the metal between the grill and the radiator. Let it dry then put 2 light/med coats of some flat high temp primer on it. I lightly scuffed it between coats. It looks good. I'll go over it with 2 coats of gloss black next.

On the edge of the doors the paint is chipped off but, the primer is intact. Can I sand the edge of the silver down to smooth with the primer and respray the edge with the silver lightly 2 or three coats then polish the paint down to blend it into the old paint. I plan on using some clear coat on it and can I do it the same way? I don't think that the silver has faded much. The Dura-coat paint is supposed to match but I doubt that it's going to be perfect.

I do have several types of polish/compound from real coarse to real fine like they polish show cars with and about 4 different types of applicator/polishing pads to work with, coarse like jeans to thick terry cloth like bath towels.

If I'm careful can I do what I'm trying to do?

I haven't messed with the top at all yet. I'll wait until there's no wind and it's warmer. The flat black warmed up real well.

Thanks Y'all, Paul
 
if you're going to clear, by far the best way to blend is to dust out the color.... compound the whole door surrounding the damage... featheredge the bad spot into the paint with say 400..... paint the damaged area till covered.. than do a few more light coats, going out further into the painted area each time.. the last one you want just speckles of paint out away from the repair.. than clear the whole door...

you can try to blend the clear a bit further out than the color, but it will be very difficult to burn-in that clear to the existing clear with a buffer..... usually it's best to do that with blending solvents... thus just carrying the clear over the whole panel is the method collision shops, etc use....
 
Thanks Ryoken,

I think that I've got it. I've been looking around for a How-To site on the net and some seem questionable, some more of an advertisement, etc. Is there a sight that you would suggest? I'm going to start looking farther back and maybe I'll find something before the net got so.....strange.

Thanks, Paul
 
sorry, no help on a site.. I already knew all this stuff back in the days of payphones and VCR's.. ;)

maybe Mitchell Gisi is looking on and has a link to some of the tutorials he used recently...
 
sorry, no help on a site, I learned all this stuff back in the days of payphones and VCR's.. ;)

but maybe Mitch, y5mgisi is looking on and has some tutorial links he's used recently....
 
Thanks, I've already learned quite a bit. I read about a paint adhesion product that is clear. I was wondering if it would make any difference on the fiberglass after I sand it and before I put the first coat of Gray on it since it doesn't appear to have had any primer under the paint from the factory? I'm thinking that since the sides are still gray that after I sand it that it might help the paint stick on the sides so that brush and small limbs won't be as apt to scratch the paint off. Your thoughts?

Thanks again, Paul
 
it shouldn't be needed as long as it's dulled/scuffed well.... if your gonna sand it smooth, definitely not... as long as you prep with a good grit for paint to grab like 320 to 400...

adhesion promoters are most often used on "tough to sand" area's like door jambs and such... tho they are also advantageous on plastic parts, bumpers too...
 
Ok, it's not necessary, good, I don't have to go find any.

They just gave the weather forecast, for the next week, unless something changes, I don't know if there's going to be anything done. If I can catch a dry, reasonably warm day, I might try to prime some of the places in the gutter that had surface rust to keep it from coming back.

Thanks, Have a good Thanksgiving, Paul
 
Well, I've got a new twist to the painting, but first; I was going through the earlier part of this thread and noticed that I said that I'd noticed the reflective part of the "M" in the grill badge about 6 months ago and went back to look for it. I mean't 6 years ago and truth be known, It was probably even longer. I wish it had been 6 months ago. It sure would have made this project easier.

Now with that out of the way, They are calling for rain starting in the next couple of days. I thought that I'd be better off to prime the sanded and chemically de-rusted areas. I saw an area on the roof above the door that looked like it should be touched up with sandpaper. The place didn't seem to be improving so I took my knife and lightly "probed" the paint edge. The paint (Silver) started coming off in pieces that hadn't adhered to the primer. I got 1 that was 1" wide and 3" long. I shot some primer under the paint's edge to try to keep any rain out. The factory primer seems real smooth, no texture at all. It's a little shiny.

I know that the whole top needs to be sanded down to a layer of primer (paint) that is adheared. If I get to an area of the paint that is adheered rather than just scuffing the paint for new primer, I need to get to the primer layer at least, then sand it and reprime the whole roof, right? I guess this is why I see alot of white and silver GM vehicles with paint problems.

Since the primer has some problem but, so far is stuck to the metal real well, if I sand it and use the adhesion improving primer, I wouldn't have to go to bare metal, would I?

This is getting to be more than I expected. Tell me the minimum that I can do and still not have to worry about the paint coming off again. I'm leary of leaving any silver on the roof even if it is stuck down now.

Y'all's thoughts?

Thanks, Paul
 
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