CrpMag122
1/2 ton status
Asking because I have never ran one long term and honestly don’t know, but are the G80’s gear range specific? I know ARB’s and most of the other lockers have specific gear ranges they will work with.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Need advice
- Thread starter Kyle1983
- Start date
Asking because I have never ran one long term and honestly don’t know, but are the G80’s gear range specific? I know ARB’s and most of the other lockers have specific gear ranges they will work with.
CrpMag122
1/2 ton status
So the Dana 44 has a carrier break of 3.73 and down and 3.92 and up. Couldn’t find anything on the 10 bolt.
I put 4.56 in my stock front 10 bolt. Open.
Last edited:
2.72 and down to 5.13 all same carrier for the 10 bolt.
2.72 to 5.13 all the same for the ten bolt.
Your truck already has a lockup converter.
And you will be fine if you go with 4.56 gears and keep the gov loc.
With your intended use it is not going to blow up.
Last edited:
I had a 90 pickup 305 v8, 5 spd, 3.73, 35" tires the 10 bolt gov loc blew up on me with street driving, that thing was no power house either. If I'm remembering correctly the springs and weights broke off took out the rest. Replaced it with a Detroit and 4.56's .
You might also want to look into an auxiliary transmission cooler at some point.
You might also want to look into an auxiliary transmission cooler at some point.
Alot of mixed experiences on here with the gov lock. Some say it's great and some had it blow up from reg street driving. Maybe it's best just to remove it and save myself a headache down the road. As a summer cruising vehicle I don't need the gov lock anyway. Besides the 4:56 gear set, when I remove the gov lock does something else have to be purchased and installed to replace the gov lock?
When purchased I was told the "electronic controll had been removed" That is why I needed the lock up harness. Does that make sense at all?
If that's the case then you should just need the wire harness.
I wonder why it was removed.
The farther I progress with this vehicle, the more I realize the previous owner wasn't so forthcoming with information. I am learning as I go along and having to pay with money and time. It's at the shop now. Waiting for the mechanic to get time to do the axles, and look at the steering system to see if we can tighten it up.
bsgreen
1/2 ton status
I think a lot of guys on this site probably had a learn as you go experience with these trucks. Mine taught me a lot about auto mechanics (and curse words) when I was a teenager. Owned it for 18 years now and it's still my favorite. Bought and sold a lot of trucks in that time, but never could bring myself to part with this one. It still makes me learn new ways to curse every now and again though...
Electronic lock up control didn't start until '87 with the fuel injected trucks. For early-mid-80's it was a couple of electric switches (brake and vacuum), plus the hydraulic precursors in the valve body. There's really no good reason to pull any of that - unless it's a different model year transmission and they didn't know how to deal with it. (maybe because they knew it would never be in 4th gear). But the taller the gear, the worse it is for the transmission.
Exactly.
It should have 4 wires, 2 plugs total.
One on the top with the blue plug next to the dip stick and one on the side on a pressure switch.
My 84 and 85 have them
It was a fuel injected. They made it carb, and pulled the electronic stuff off. That's what I was told. Now I have to get a lockup harness put on.
Considering my vehicle. My tranny and tires and the 4.56, the lockup harness should help?
Someone did the same thing on the 85 I bought. Put a carburetor on and eliminated the lockup feature
Someone did the same thing on the 85 I bought. Put a carburetor on and eliminated the lockup feature
Did you put the harness on or do you drive it as is?
The 10 bolt G80 is no good. G80 in a 14 bolt 10.5" ring gear is much better. You should change the carrier, esp if you are spending money on gear changes.
Ok the electronic lock torque converter lock you want. If the torque converter doesn't lock up 4th you will create more heat and the trans will die early.
With 2.73 and 35" tire the trans has probably never shifted into 4th. Once you put 4.56 or 4.88 you will shift into 4th regularly. You should consider adding trans oil temp gauge, and a second external Plate and Fin oil cooler.
I run a k20 sub with a 350, 700r4, 33" tire and current 4.10 gears. I am changing my gearing to 4.88. My truck may have a little more weight the math says 4.56 for 33's, I went 1 ratio lower for the weight.
Is this in combination with the california-only electronic carb? I've never seen a factory-installed pressure switch on an external pressure port. The mid-80's valve bodies have pressure switches internally. Usually the external switches were put on as part of a TCC lockup retrofit kit. Did the truck CCC control TCC lockup?
Sorry, I thought it was a 1983 model based on your user name. Going back, I see it's an '87. The internal wiring for the '87 and up transmissions is simpler than the 82-86 models since the control is supposed to come from the ECM on the later ones. You need to search here and read up on the different options for getting lockup going again. I wouldn't let a shop "install the harness" until you know which parts they're actually putting on and you've weighed the options. There are different approaches, like adding brake and vacuum switches, to vehicle-speed based aftermarket setups to valve body modifications that provide lockup with no wiring at all.
So the carrier is an additional purchase. Got a link to any decent carriers? 4.56 or 4.88 is the question. I will talk to the transmission guy. He said 1,500 USD to rebuild it. All I see is my $$ flying away.
