Need electrical help with Dual tank switch

[COCHEV]

my tank selector stopped working and i'd like to know if the switch went bad or if its the selector down by the tanks. the switch has 4 wires: Pink (hot), pink w/blk stripe (Ground i think) and light grn and dark grn which i would think represent each tank. sooo, here's what i get when i test it: switch in middle- pink hot, nothing else hot. with the switch on righ or left i have juice to all the other wires, even the pink w/ blk stripe one. this seems wrong to me. should the ground show hot too? or is it not a ground wire? it goes to some wierd plug under the dash above the kick panel. seems to me i should be able to heat up the light grn or dark grn as i toggle the switch but not both

 

[m j]

ok it is late but I can get you started.
the switch is 2 switches.
1 of them selects which tank the guage reads
the other is a simple toggle to either send power to the selector valve or to not send power.
pretty simple to test whether power is reaching the selector valve with a test light.
climb under and test.
I found that my truck first lost the dual tanks when a blur add on looking connector was removed from the fuse panel during a session of removing a few hundred feet of unused PO wiring from the dash area.

wiring diagrams are in my webshots

 

[COCHEV]

yeah, i spent the day removing a buch of unused wire too so i think i did something. so to test for power at the selector is a 2 person deal cause power is only sent when the switch is held down- correct???

been to your web shots. much better then my haynes diagrams! thanks,

jason

 

[ibrakeformud]

go to kragen and get a new swith that what i did with my 84 and the tamks switched the way they should...david

 

[m j]

nope,
it is hot when you select 1 of the tanks and dead when the other is selected

the other side of the switch just directs which tank resistor the 12v from the gauge goes through before grounding IIRC

of course I am spitting out instructions for the old carberator selector switch without checking that the newer stuff is the same /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[COCHEV]

electrical is so anoying /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif did the ol' wiggle the wires and switch and the damn thing worked again. switch contacts probably getting bad.

now i have to g farther down the line and see if my sender is grounded right or just shot. fun. maybe next weekend. i think it would be much easier on these old rigs that have been all butchered up to just bypass all stock wiring and go all aftermarket gages, senders and wires. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

 

[m j]

actually the aftermarket stuff is usually based on what is in your truck now...so no gains.
after you play with it a bit this old wiring is really simple.
it is the PO wiring that is the trouble

 

[COCHEV]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
it is the PO wiring that is the trouble

[/ QUOTE ]

i'll agree to that! sense when is duct tape an acceptible form of wire connecting. or taking all of your wires and connections and wraping them with 3 miles of electrical tape! also have some nice speaker wire used to rig up some lights /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

 

[m j]

speaker wire is the PO wire of choice for any install