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Need feedback, two days to pull the trigger...

I mean guys, I realize I'm absolutely coming across as a doey eyed newlywed about this, possibly to an annoying extent, but I'm totally down if anyone wants to tell me where the rust free, inspected and driveable, 4 speed 4x4 blazers of the 69-75 vintage, for less than $5k are, I'll hump your leg, buy you dinner and drinks, and fly out to pick one up and drive it home, then send you something shiny for Christmas. :waytogo:

I totally understand you guys, and I know you're right that the rust is worse than I think it is, the question to me is if the windshield rust is enough to offset the rest of the package. which is hard to find.
 
If you haven't restored or heavily modified the body on a vehicle before, you have no idea what it really takes to repair that truck. Time, dedication and money. I bet there is 10x more rust than you can see.




Buy the truck if.......you are well prepared to fix the rust. I'm talking about welder in hand, cash in pocket, and your wife doesn't like you, so stay in the garage time is available. or, you are going to wheel it until the doors fall off, or maybe the windshield falls out.

Don't buy it if........you don't know how to fix it. Don't have a welder. Don't have a fair amount of cash to spend monthly. Have a life. Going to halfass repair the rust.


Just my .02
 
just to offer a contrary view, remember, when you ask the guys for advice here, the whole point is for us to go over everything we can think of with a fine toothed comb and nitpick the **** out of it. Only you can decide if it's worth it or not now that some of the things you may have missed have been pointed out.

Yeah, it most likely has more rust issues than you currently know about, but honestly, the truck is drivable right now (minus driveline issues) and if you never did crap for bodywork on it, 95% of the people that see it are never going to know. It's not going to rust out from under you any time soon, so if you aren't trying to do a resto, F it, go for it. You know what you might find if you start digging into it, so it's your call.
enjoy!
-Ash
 
Ask the owner if they have any old pics before paint job. Or ask them who painted it then go to that shop and ask questions about the metal integrity prior to paint job. If you have looked at many trucks and this seems to be in better shape, then buy it. Be prepared to spend time fixing it or paying someone else to.
 
doonjumper said:
Ask the owner if they have any old pics before paint job. Or ask them who painted it then go to that shop and ask questions about the metal integrity prior to paint job. If you have looked at many trucks and this seems to be in better shape, then buy it. Be prepared to spend time fixing it or paying someone else to.
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thats actually ****ing brilliant..... im kind of upset i didnt think of that :doah:
 
ashman said:
just to offer a contrary view, remember, when you ask the guys for advice here, the whole point is for us to go over everything we can think of with a fine toothed comb and nitpick the **** out of it. Only you can decide if it's worth it or not now that some of the things you may have missed have been pointed out.

Yeah, it most likely has more rust issues than you currently know about, but honestly, the truck is drivable right now (minus driveline issues) and if you never did crap for bodywork on it, 95% of the people that see it are never going to know. It's not going to rust out from under you any time soon, so if you aren't trying to do a resto, F it, go for it. You know what you might find if you start digging into it, so it's your call.
enjoy!
-Ash
Click to expand...

oh no, i totally get that, and like I said I totally respect and appreciate all the feedback, I have never done bodywork, so I absolutely don't have the foggiest idea whats going to be involved in that repair work, but I dont really need to because likely it will involve another loan after this one gets paid off, and dropping the truck off at a body shop with the instructions to fix the dangerous isht. like a rotting windshield frame and rocker boxes. the Im totally down for an 80/20 on this rig, its not meant to be a show car. But its alot to digest, Im gonna have to really think about it given the weight of "run away"s that popped up lol. the first responses were so positive too :whistle:
 
K5dreamer said:
but I dont really need to because likely it will involve another loan after this one gets paid off, and dropping the truck off at a body shop with the instructions to fix the dangerous isht. like a rotting windshield frame and rocker boxes. the Im totally down for an 80/20 on this rig, its not meant to be a show car.
Click to expand...

As far as body work goes be very careful, sometimes its tempting to go to joe shcmo who does it part time. I have had friends come back with great looking paint jobs from this type of person only to have it rot away in a couple years. The counterpoint to that is I have seen some of the best bodywork ever come out of places like that too.

Body work like this is expensive, because its time consuming and sometimes hard to find replacement parts. I would imagine though if the top of the windsheild frame is solid you could graft a newer frame onto the top and bottom?

Not sure all I know is bodywork it about 4 times whatever you think it will be. And if you get it blasted it might be alot more.

I know you said you don't want it to be a show truck but when doing rust repair you must remove it all, or it will continue to rust, so it must be done right. No badges and no trim on that year means it was removed and there are tons of little holes in the truck too. If those weren't fixed correctly they could be future problem areas.

I would love to see you buy it and fix it up. I get the lure of the full vert, I love em too.
 
So ummm... Whys some rust in the windsheild frame a big deal? You guys act like theres a hole in the motor or something. Its a freekin windshield. Mines rusty like swiss cheese. My blazer still goes up the dunes just fine even though it is what you all call "a rust belt Pos". Buy it, who gives a crap about a little rust. As long as my feet arent hangin out the floor and i can close my doors, thats all that matters. Unless your looking for a show truck, but you wont find one at that price.
 
Most pre '87 trucks around here (and probably many newer ones) sport at least a quart of Tiger Hair or Mar-Glass filler in the rotted areas around the windsheild...takes only maybe 5-10 years for a truck to rot thru there here!..The biggest problem with rust around the windsheild is the leakage that ends up in the cowl and firewall seams,and floor,eventually the whole cab rots from the inside out...your bound to have those problems if it was allowed to leak and sit a long time before the "restoration"...very few body shops will take on a vehicle with that type of rot around the windows,and the few who do wont gaurantee it'll last more than a year or two,if at all....If I had 3 grand to spend,I'd hop a plane to AZ or NM,look around there for a rust free truck to start with,rather than deal with one that'll rot again in short order...
 
K5dreamer said:
I mean guys, I realize I'm absolutely coming across as a doey eyed newlywed about this, possibly to an annoying extent, but I'm totally down if anyone wants to tell me where the rust free, inspected and driveable, 4 speed 4x4 blazers of the 69-75 vintage, for less than $5k are, I'll hump your leg, buy you dinner and drinks, and fly out to pick one up and drive it home, then send you something shiny for Christmas. :waytogo:

I totally understand you guys, and I know you're right that the rust is worse than I think it is, the question to me is if the windshield rust is enough to offset the rest of the package. which is hard to find.
Click to expand...


You still seem to be missing the point that a rusty $5000 truck isn't really $5000....

It's a $10,000+ truck that you paid $5000 for in addition to writing yourself an IOU for another $5000+ in rust repair!!!

Stop thinking in terms of the initial purchase price. There is money, lots of money queued up to be spent when you accept a rusty truck for a cheap price.

In my opinion, your desires don't match your budget. Keep saving until you can afford the "right" vehicle.

-G
 
I hate to make this a dogpile. But just another .02. First you said you would pay off the loan. On a 3k rig first mistake. Second you are writing checks for future work when you have to borrow the front money. Save your dough till it is cash in hand (get better deals.anyway). 2nd it is cheaper to put whatever drivetrain under a good body than to fix a crap body around your dream drivetrain.

I know how you feel about the full vert as I have a 73. Minor rust in floors and I have the experience and tools to fix it (and it will still cost a lot). Took me ten years and $400.00 to find it to make it happen and it has less rust that what you are looking at. But had fun building a lot of other rigs till I found this one.
 
A truck minus the full vert is in the classifieds for sale in VA right now for $1600 cheaper then that one. And it has one tons :waytogo:
 
I didnt even catch the loan part the first readthrough.

The only thing worse than paying over 3k for that truck is paying for it with a loan, and then taking a loan to pay for the rust repair.
 
as to the loan issue, y'all shouldn't worry about that. I manage my finances well enough (726 beacon score at last check), I intentionally take out loans that I know I wont have a problem paying back and use that to build my credit for the future. The loan isn't the issue with buying the truck, the condition of the truck and If its right for me is.
 
Buy the blazer for as little as you can.........and instead of getting a loan to have the body work done, invest in a welder and other tools and either learn to do the work yourself, or get help from here and friends around home. Do you have any interest in doing your own work? If so, there are plenty of (artists) slaves here that would be willing to help

A lot of owners like learning and working on their own trucks....some don't want to or care to so they pay someone else to do the work. And it doesn't matter who does the work as long as you're happy with the results.

You've been given tons of advice and now you need to decide if this is the truck for you or should you keep searching?

willie
 
kylerj133 said:
example of what your getting into...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=469407

probably not as bad but who knows :confused::confused:
Click to expand...


Holy hell!! is that what y'all think this truck is like just from the rust on the windshield??? I only looked at the first page, but geeze, this 74 is nothing like that. I mean yes I know the rust is worse than i think, but there was no paint under the body to hide anything, and I went under on my back from the rear bumper to the front bumper. aside from one hole in the rear of the pass. rocker box, one in the front of the driver side rocker box, and the windshield, its clean.

Ah well... moot point, I ask advice from those that know more than me, I'd be a fool not to listen. Im still 98% stuck on a full vert, but It wont be this one. Wont say its not buggin me to make that call though. I really dont think its as horrible as everyone is making it out to be, but Im totally ignorant on bodywork so i have no grounds to have that opinion, so that means Im arguing based one want, which is gonna get me in trouble.

sigh... and I was so horney for this thing to :doah:
 
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