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Need front d60 breakdown and adjusting help

RootBreaker

RootBreaker

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Ok so now I put my front driveshaft in... and when I spin it it binds up.. both hubs are unlocked and thus should spin freely... spins freely then seems to bind.... so I am going to take the front apart... anyone have a diagram and now to adjust the ring and pinion?



I put a detroit in my 14bolt and it had the adjusters from side to side... did that ok.. but my front d60 didnt even have shims on the sides... just put the carrier in... do you just space the pinion out to get rid of backspace???

I know the front wasnt done right as I have a 1/4 turn when I turn the yoke back and forth to feel the play..... didnt have a front shaft so wasnt worried about it.. but now would like to get 4wd working since I passed inspection.....
 
Sounds like you need an install kit for a R&P. To get the correct mesh there are two basic adjustmants. Pinion depth, and side to side adjustmant on the carrier itself. It sounds like someone just chucked a carrier in there to sell the diff...

I'd definitely check that the ring and pinion belong together as well.

With any luck the pinion depth is OK and you'll just need to shim the carrier one way or the other.

Rene
 
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tRustyK5 said:
Sounds like you need an install kit for a R&P. To get the correct mesh there are two basic adjustmants. Pinion depth, and side to side adjustmant on the carrier itself. It sounds like someone just chucked a carrier in there to sell the diff...

With any luck the pinion depth is OK and you'll just need to shim the carrier one way or the other.

Rene
Click to expand...

ummm the "someone" was me....

I bought my parts truck with a front d60 and 4.10's so I put a carrier/detroit replacement in and 4.56's... never did it before but everyone around here wanted $500-$800 to do the job... so I took a stab at it....

now When I took the old carrier out there were no shims... also the new carrier slid right in nice and TIGHT side to side..... I did buy the install kit and think the pinion depth is not correct yet... thus I have a little in out play.... so yeah gotta tear it all down.... :frown1:
 
Of course, Rene is dead on. ;)

Just fyi - there are no adjusters in the D60 because there are shims between the carrier bearing and the carrier itself. When replacing the carrier you should have to spend some time shimming the carrier to achieve the correct backlash.

Also, is this the first time the front shaft has been in it? Are you sure the CV joint on the shaft isn't bottoming out and binding?
 
nvrenuf said:
Of course, Rene is dead on. ;)

Just fyi - there are no adjusters in the D60 because there are shims between the carrier bearing and the carrier itself. When replacing the carrier you should have to spend some time shimming the carrier to achieve the correct backlash.

Also, is this the first time the front shaft has been in it? Are you sure the CV joint on the shaft isn't bottoming out and binding?
Click to expand...

good thinking on the front shaft.. ill unhook it tomorrow and try and spin the yoke.... see if it binds... but I do have so much play in the pinion that I do have to take it apart... now you even say that there are shims for around the carrier.... I cannot fit any shims in there.... the carrier went in tight and I tried seeing if there were any in there and there wasnt :confused:
 
There are shims, but they are between the carrier and the pressed on bearing if I understand it correctly. Some diff's have the shims outboard of the carrier which is easier...

I don't pretend to be a master gear installer, but I think the ideal way to set up a Dana diff is to slightly hone the old carrier bearings so they slide on and off easily. This will let you try various shim sizes until you get a good pattern. At that point you can press on the new bearings and finsh the install (if the pinion depth is good and the pattern is copasetic)

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
There are shims, but they are between the carrier and the pressed on bearing if I understand it correctly. Some diff's have the shims outboard of the carrier which is easier...

I don't pretend to be a master gear installer, but I think the ideal way to set up a Dana diff is to slightly hone the old carrier bearings so they slide on and off easily. This will let you try various shim sizes until you get a good pattern. At that point you can press on the new bearings and finsh the install (if the pinion depth is good and the pattern is copasetic)

Rene
Click to expand...
if that is the case I will just adjust the pinion depth and hope for the best.... expecially having a detroit up there.. if she aint right... it will definitely tell me!!!! :grin:
 
on all dana axles the shims are between the pressed on bearings and the carrier as Rene said. on all corparate axles (10b 12b 14b) the shims are between the bearing race and the housing. also easier to setup

you need to check the pattern before you start changing stuff. changing just the pinion depth will not get you a usable pattern. you need to change carrier shims also. get some old bearings and some emery cloth and sand inside the bearing till you can push the bearing on with your hand. you will need to have someone press the bearings that are on it off and new ones on once you get the pattern right.

if you don't get it right, you will damage the gears and will need a new set. its worth it to do set it up right the first time.
 
I'm not really familiar with a Dana 60 ring and pinion install, but if it is similar to my 10 bolt there should be shims outside the carrier bearings. I measured the thickness of each one and there was just a few thousands difference, less than you could see with the naked eye, so it would be easy to mix them up. You said though that there were no shims, so maybe a D 60 is different or they stayed in the housing when you pulled the carrier out. I would be concerned that it turns freely part of the time and then binds. If the problem is not in the driveshaft, would it be possible that the ring gear is not pulled up evenly to the carrier? Maybe a little bit of foreign matter stuck between them?
Good Luck!
 
NOT ALL dana axles have the shims between the carrier and the bearings. Dana 35 is a prime example, but that does not apply here so I'll stop there.

Your dana 60 DID have shims between the carrier bearings and the carrier. There is no way that it would have fit tight in the housing if it didn't. If you're not familiar with setting up gears (which you said you aren't), you'll need to press off the old carrier bearings and measure the shim packs behind each one. It may be difficult to see them behind there, but trust me, they're there. Often times the original shims are a good place to start when setting up new gears.

Other than that, read the manuals posted above, and take your time. You will burn up (or chew up) the new gears if they're not set up properly.
 
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