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Need fuel line ID 72 c10

76k5blazerr

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Figured I would get quicker response here... Trying to track down the source of the vapor lock problems I've been having from my 72 c10. There are 3 fuel lines coming out the bottom of my tank, I labeled them in the picture. The line labeled "IN" goes to the inlet on the fuel pump. The line labeled "FPR" goes to the return fitting on the fuel pump, and the line labeled "N" for nothing, goes all the way up the frame to the motor and then has a bolt stuck in the end of the line, plugging it. This is how I got the truck. What I am asking is where are these lines supposed to go? Obviously the "IN" line is hooked up to the right port or my engine wouldnt run but I geuss my biggest question is this, is line "N" or line "FPR" supposed to go the return fitting on the fuel pump. And which ever one does not go there, where is it supposed to go? Thanks

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As you said, one line goes to the fuel pump, another one going down the frame was probably for the Evap Canister, and a 1972 C10 is not suposed to have a fuel return line because it is not fuel injected. You might want to check if this truck has a fuel tank swapped out of a newer fuel injected truck. Also, with the evap line blocked off, you will need a vented gas cap.
 
As you said, one line goes to the fuel pump, another one going down the frame was probably for the Evap Canister, and a 1972 C10 is not suposed to have a fuel return line because it is not fuel injected. You might want to check if this truck has a fuel tank swapped out of a newer fuel injected truck. Also, with the evap line blocked off, you will need a vented gas cap.
It is supposed to have a return line, GM started putting them on in the 70s to prevent vapor lock, most 70s AC equipped trucks have them. Im starting to think my vapor lock is because the carb is to close to the intake. Need a spacer I think.
 
It is supposed to have a return line, GM started putting them on in the 70s to prevent vapor lock, most 70s AC equipped trucks have them. Im starting to think my vapor lock is because the carb is to close to the intake. Need a spacer I think.

Yes, the mechanical pumps with the 2-lines off the bowl area. I thought those where not until the mid-to-late seventies. It seems you knew what lines these where after all.
 
After the work I did today. I don't think my original question is the cause of my vapor lock. Mods, delete.
 
1/4 inch line return from pump to tank
5/16 line to canister.
3/8 line tank to pump feed.
 
So what have you figured out? Did you get it fixed?
Well the fuel tank vent line, the one that comes out the top of the tank and runs up the B pillar and loops was clogged. I replaced it but that didn't fix the problem. I'm thinking now that the carburetor is what's causing the vapor lock because it's getting to hot, so I have a 1 inch spacer coming in Wednesday. If that doesn't fix it then I will have to sit down and do some thinking.
 
Well I run spacers under both of my carbs, but I don't think that is going to fix your problem. Maybe it will, but I am betting that you have another problem. I ran several old trucks without carb spacers and didn't have that problem.
I am betting on either a weak fuel pump or a soft hose before the pump on the feed. Maybe the hose gets warm and sucks closed ? Possibly just the inner liner is sucking closed? Or what condition are the ones under the cab?

I have had both the pump and the hoses give me problems before. Just a thought.
 
I would look into changing lines and pump as well. Not too expensive and good peice of mind your fuel system won't crap out on you. But I think your on the right track with the carb spacer. My fuel bowls were extremely hot after 30 minutes of driving. I put a 1 inch phenolic spacer on mine and now I can actually touch my carb without burning my hand
 
Well I run spacers under both of my carbs, but I don't think that is going to fix your problem. Maybe it will, but I am betting that you have another problem. I ran several old trucks without carb spacers and didn't have that problem.
I am betting on either a weak fuel pump or a soft hose before the pump on the feed. Maybe the hose gets warm and sucks closed ? Possibly just the inner liner is sucking closed? Or what condition are the ones under the cab?

I have had both the pump and the hoses give me problems before. Just a thought.
Well thanks for the info guys. You know I had not thought of the hoses sucking closed when hot. That is an idea right there. The fuel pump was replaced 3 weeks ago after the first vapor lock when I thought the fuel pump had took a crap. It is a 3 line pump. Return and feed line are free. I thought all the rubber hoses looked fairly good but will replace them all tomorrow or Wednesday before I put the carb spacer on and if that fixes it, I'll return the spacer. Or may run it anyway if it's not to hard to modify my choke spring linkage the goes to the intake on the pass side of carb.
 
They say that a spacer makes more low end torque. I like the fact that it helps keep the carb from getting as much heat , especially after you shut it off. I doesn't have as much of a chance to boil over.
My big block has a phenolic spacer on the cast iron Q-jet high rise.
 
I think ethanol gas boils easier than what the engines were intended to run on back in the day too...it also makes a carb jetted for old leaded gas run leaner,having less BTU content--a book I have on how to make alcohol fuels has a whole chapter dedicated to carb mods,how to open up the jets so it'll run right on alcohol vs gas,make a gas "primer" device to aid cold starts,as alcohol does not vaporize well below freezing,etc......the leaner mixture that results from using a old carb designed for old leaded gas with ethanol laced fuel,might make the engine run hotter,and add to the potential for vapor lock..
I know small engines dont like to run well on it unless you open up the jets a bit,and it makes them run hotter than they did on leaded gas..

In my area where its often damp,foggy and cool,carb icing was more of a problem than anything else on my GM's..the carbs would actually frost up on the exterior when it was below 50 degrees under those conditions,and it took a several mile ride to heat up the carb enough to "de-frost" it..

During the warm up period the driveability sucked--the engine would die at idle unless I held the gas pedal "open" and power braked it at every stop sign (try that with icy roads !)--sometimes ice would keep the butterfly in the carb from closing too,so the gas pedal would "stick"..:eek:.--and it would stutter and blubber under acceleration like it was over choked--then once the engine hit a certain temprature,it would suddenly smooth out and run perfect,almost like a switch was turned on..as the carb de-frosted..

Several of my GM trucks and my '69 GTO all acted that way on those damp cool mornings on my way to work..I'd stop at a drive thru to get a coffee about 5 miles away,and I'd have to fight to keep them from stalling at idle--then by the time I reached the window where I'd get the coffee,the engine would suddenly smooth right out..

Worst offender for that was an '86 305 I put an Edelbrock and aluminum intake on--the thing looked like the freezer compartment in my fridge on a damp cool morning after a cold start,for a good 15 minutes sometimes..in order to make it driveable,I ended up bolting the carb to the intake with just a thin flat gasket,ditched the spacer,and I hooked manifold vacuum to the EFE heat riser valve to increase heat to the base of the carb...it decreased the amount of time it took to warm up,but still it was a pain to drive the first couple of miles...

In most other parts of the USA,you might have to "delete" all these things that could increase the carb bowl's temperature to prevent vapor lock--up here there isn't too many hot summer days that would be ideal for vapor lock..but some older vehicles that never had symptoms of it now do,with the ethanol laced gas...

I think a lot of it is not closely monitored,its supposed to be 10% ethanol,but I bet if samples were taken more often,finding some sold with much more than that is not uncommon..I've bought some that my mowers and tractors barely ran on,it--dumped it and went to another gas station and tried that,they started up and ran much better...
 
Well guys I'm sure I'll jinx myself by saying this but I replaced the fuel line that runs from the steel line up at the engine to the pump and the old one was pretty soft and was kinked. Been driving the truck wherever I needed to go tonight and no symptoms yet of vapor lock (knock on wood) so time will tell.
 
Well since you knocked on wood, (my dad told to use the hardwood on top of my neck) you should be possibly ok??
Hope for the best.
 
Well since you knocked on wood, (my dad told to use the hardwood on top of my neck) you should be possibly ok??
Hope for the best.
Well just as I thought, I jinxed myself. It's gotta be the carb. It vapor locked on my way home tonight, good think I carry a gas can now. Anyway when I did get home I popped the hood and felt all of the gas lines under the hood and none were more than remotely warm. Carb spacer comes tomorrow.
 
This is a long shot--but have you tried a different gas cap ?..
If the vent valve in the cap gets blocked or is defective,it wont let air into the tank,after a few minutes running time,the suction from the fuel pump makes a vacuum in the gas tank,so fuel cant be pulled out--this causes poor running and usually a stall results,then if you let it sit awhile,the gas tank loses the vacuum and gas can flow again,and can be mistaken for vapor lock..sometimes this takes only a few seconds..

This happens often on small engines like lawn mowers & tractors,and drives mechanics crazy trying to pin down the cause..

I assume you have replaced all the rubber hoses from the carb to the gas tank,any of them that are old and not ethanol rated may look perfect on the outside,but be all separated inside and causing intermittent blockage..

I also assume right after it stalls,you get out and verify its not a lack of spark,not fuel,thats stalling it out...
 
Said further up the vent line was clogged so he replaced it, cap should have no bearing if the vent line is clear.
 
This is a long shot--but have you tried a different gas cap ?..
If the vent valve in the cap gets blocked or is defective,it wont let air into the tank,after a few minutes running time,the suction from the fuel pump makes a vacuum in the gas tank,so fuel cant be pulled out--this causes poor running and usually a stall results,then if you let it sit awhile,the gas tank loses the vacuum and gas can flow again,and can be mistaken for vapor lock..sometimes this takes only a few seconds..

This happens often on small engines like lawn mowers & tractors,and drives mechanics crazy trying to pin down the cause..

I assume you have replaced all the rubber hoses from the carb to the gas tank,any of them that are old and not ethanol rated may look perfect on the outside,but be all separated inside and causing intermittent blockage..

I also assume right after it stalls,you get out and verify its not a lack of spark,not fuel,thats stalling it out...
The gas cap is new. It's the vented style but when I got it it was not venting until like 15 psi in the tank and I could drive the truck for like 2 mins then get out and take the cap off and here whoooshhhh. Anyway I did a mod to the gas cap and cut the spring down inside the vent, now I can blow and suck through the vent in the cap with ease, and no more whooshing when you take off the cap. Yes I have replaced the rubber hoses and I am assuming the stalling is not spark related because when it dies I get out and pour some gas down the carb and it fires up and runs another 20 mins.
 
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