Need HELP!!! looking for a capacitor for my compressor

[brans87]

My I/R compressor took a dump today after getting truck ready for last coat of raptor liner guys!!!!
I found # C103237310705 on capacitor but can't go out looking for it as watching my 12 week old son now. Is this something I can find local in Durham,NC at maybe home depot or lowes? It kicks starter motor over.
Anything else I should check on it? I installed new pressure switch about 4 months ago or so and now this. Gonna to replace both capacitors not just one!
Help a fellow member out here please!!!!!!

 

[RaisedK5]

Grainger would be my best bet.

 

[Blue85]

Find the capacitance value and voltage rating of that cap and google for equivalent motor starting capacitors.

 

[WJACKSON11X]

It should have a capacitance rating and voltage rating stamped on the capacitor
It will say something like 125mfd or 125uf and 230vac

If you know those ratings, then you can get a replacement. It doesn't have to be the exact part #, but it does have to be the same rating as the old (very important)

 

[diesel4me]

Some motors require both a "motor start" and a "motor run" capacitor,and they are not interchangeable too...best to match up whats on there ..
In my area you could just go to one of several electric motor repair shops to get one,either used or new--W.W. Grainger is about the only place nearby that stocks any...

I had to get a motor start capacitor for the 24" exhaust fan I put in my garage's rear wall,it wouldn't start unless I spun the blades with something with the switch turned on..

I had to drive 15 miles to get one,and it cost 15 bucks..it worked fine with the new one.

As luck would have it, a week later I found an identical fan,motor & blade on an old gas heater,that hung from a ceiling,sitting in a junk pile at a scrapyard--they sold me the whole thing for 5 bucks!..now I'll never have any trouble with the existing exhaust fan..it had the exact same motor & capacitor too..

 

[brans87]

Found one local but starter motor has to come off for repairs it appears. I installed new parts cut breaker on then switch compressor on in 3 sec sparks. Looks like old guy at electrical store was right. Going to take motor in am to him as looks like contacts or something (can't seem find right words) is burnt up.

How do I know if I have the belt tight enough when reinstall motor? Anything else I should do while apart? Hoping he can get it fixed tomorrow but highly doubtful which blows!

 

[Blue85]

Well if you have a shorted winding there isn't much hope but full rebuild. Hopefully it just needs brushes or something.

 

[brans87]

Guess will see in morning took me about 10 mins to pull starter motor off. Oh it ain't light......

 

[Big Ray]

Mouser.com.

I put together a kit to upgrade my guitar amp from them.

 

[Fordum]

Got into this one late. Sparks when trying to start, is hopefully a bad start switch or overload. Both fairly cheap and easy to replace. If I had seen this sooner, you may have been able to fix it on the compressor.
Single phase motors like yours have a centrifugal switch inside the back end of the motor. There are a pair of weights on the motor shaft. When the motor is standing still, a set of points are closed which turn on the start windings.
As the motor gets up to speed, the weights are slung outward like the advance weights on a distributor.
That moves a piece on a pivot which opens the points.
Those points draw a pretty heavy current when the motor is starting, and if they are burned, you can get sparks.

The whole setup except for the weights are a kit and usually only a couple of screws and plug in wires. And the weights seldom if ever give any problem other than needing a small amount of oil.
As for the capacitor, next time look for a refrigeration supply company. They use a lot of them. The start cap, usually a round cylindrical plastic unit, is only fairly critical as to the microfared rating.
They are plus or minus about 10% anyway, and are only in use for a second. The voltage rating is more critical, but can be higher than the old one, just not lower.

The run capacitor, usually a retangular metal unit, MF rating is more critical, and needs to be close to the old one. The voltage rating of the old one will seem too high, but the replacement must be that high or higher.