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Need help with rear window issue

clandr1

clandr1

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 30, 2009
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Location
Texas
Hi fellas,

I have a power rear window, and although I replaced the motor about 6 months ago, it has gotten so slow that I have to help it down and up while holding the key in the direction I want it to go.

Any suggestions? The channels are good, and I replaced the window seals about a year ago. I wonder if maybe the gears and/or cable need lubrication?

If so, any ideas what type of lube is best, and how I can best get the lube from one end of the cable to another?

Thanks!
 
Where do you recommend I look for a new cable? Only place online I could find that carries it is LMC. Auto parts sites don't show anything relating to a window cable.

Thanks for the reply.
 
British Slave said:
Check your local Chevy dealer. They still have a lot of parts for Blazers. If they can't help, check Classic Parts.
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Thanks for the advice.

LMC wanted approx $40 after shipping (most likely chinese made), Class Parts wanted $62.95+ shipping, and my local dealer wanted $72.40 plus tax. I figured it was worth the extra money to have an OEM dealer part that they can have in hand tomorrow, since I don't want to have to mess with this again.

I'll update this weekend and let you guys know if it solved my slow tailgate window.

eta: Chevy dealer part number was 12542292 and it is apparently an active item, meaning they are still producing them. Only one day transit time from the warehouse and it'll be at the dealer.
 
Keep in mind the tail gate grounds through the hinges to the body. I have read here that people have added a ground strap/wire from the gate to the body and it helped.

I just got manual tail gate window parts this weekend, hoping to fix that power window motor for good real soon. :waytogo:
 
496truck said:
Keep in mind the tail gate grounds through the hinges to the body. I have read here that people have added a ground strap/wire from the gate to the body and it helped.

I just got manual tail gate window parts this weekend, hoping to fix that power window motor for good real soon. :waytogo:
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Do me a favor -- take pictures and post up on how easy/difficult it was, because if this new cable (and I'll try the ground) doesn't fix my woes, I might just go manual myself :D
 
I have also heard that the better ground will help a lot. My window was kinda slow - so I changed the motor today (new one) not a damn thing changed in the speed. May need to try the new ground.
 
Well, I installed the new cable and it didn't get any better w/ 12v. Then I tried adding a thick ground cable from the hinge mounting bolt on the bumper to the body of the truck, not better.

However, with the truck running and pushing higher amps through the wires, the window is quicker with just the cable replacement. I think I'm going to do a relay mod with new power wires to the rear just for the window motor.

When I get to it, I'll post up with results.
 
Tried running a thick ground cable from the hinge bolts underneath the truck to the bolt on the frame that holds the bumper side support member. Didn't seem to help.

It works ok with the new regulator cable, but I'd still prefer a faster window. At some point when I stop being lazy I'll try running some new power wire to the rear and use relays.
 
hmm try running a temporary ground from somewhere near the motor to the frame. it might have a bad connection. Personally i feel the cables and the whole setup for the rear window was undersized

have you tried the old motor and see if it spins correctly from just a battery with no load. best way to troubleshoot is check it point by point. remove the motor and slide the window up and down manually. be careful as you can lose a finger in there. but just check to make sure there isint any friction somewhere non electrical related.

and sometimes the felt strips can dig in and act like a self actuating brake that grabs into the glass.
 
I replaced the motor, cable, and greased the entire bracket gears with white lithium grease and it never got better.

For just this reason when I was looking for sub it had to have barn doors.
 
cuervo said:
I replaced the motor, cable, and greased the entire bracket gears with white lithium grease and it never got better.

For just this reason when I was looking for sub it had to have barn doors.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm thinking about starting the search for a tailgate with a manual rear window. I have too much time and effort (and by default, money) into this truck to give it up for a 'burb.
 
Did you get ever get this worked out? I don't know exactly what the mechanism in the tailgate is like for your Blazer, but all four windows (and locks, for that matter) in the Suburban benefited GREATLY from some liberal applications of carb cleaner (wash away the old gunk), WD-40 (on the joints) and grease (on the springs).

Concerning the relays, that's what I am doing to the rear gate in my Wag right now, I know lots of people that that has helped on those trucks. You might want to take a meter to your current set up and see what your actual voltage getting to your motor is (check with engine on and off for comparison). I wouldn't be surprised if you were only getting 9-10 volts back there with the factory wiring, but with relays, you should get the full 12-14. Since a new motor didn't make much difference, I'd say the relays will be your friend.
 
Nope, haven't really messed with it this week. I'm not looking forward to doing the relay mod, but I suppose it's gotta be done. I will try the brake cleaner trick -- but seeing how WD40 is not necessarily a lubricant, would silicone be better for something like that?
 
clandr1 said:
Nope, haven't really messed with it this week. I'm not looking forward to doing the relay mod, but I suppose it's gotta be done. I will try the brake cleaner trick -- but seeing how WD40 is not necessarily a lubricant, would silicone be better for something like that?
Click to expand...

The WD-40 in my application was primarily for the door lock mechanisms and that worked great. As far as the coil springs for the windows (again, the tailgate might be different than the doors), I packed those springs full of grease and that sped up my window speeds considerably (a couple were not really even functional enough to use prior to this, and now they all work perfectly (even faster than the driver window on the Yukon, which seems to be on its last leg). Don't forget to get your meter out and check voltage at the motor before wiring in the relays. I upgraded the headlights on my Wag to run off of relays and it made a big difference, but on another project (Scout maybe?) I checked the voltage and it was high enough that I decided it wasn't worth messing with. Could be the case for you since a new motor didn't help (if it's not resistance from old cruddy mechanisms and springs, and you have a new motor, it would make sense to me that poor voltage is the culprit). Easy things first though, lube the heck out of it. That will help no matter what.
 
Hey Chris, one of my FSJ buddies drew up a diagram and he posted it over on IFSJA. I haven't ever been inside a K5 tailgate, but the window goes up and down just like a Wag I assume, so when basically starting from scratch like he did here and running the relays, it should translate fairly easily.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=150627
 
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