Need Help With Vehicle Not Related To This Forum If Thats Ok. 1999 Crown Victoria LX

[blackandgold51]

Today when I went to the store to turn the vehicle off, it couldn't turn off and the ignition switch didn't "click , click" when turning the key forward or backwards.

Which I had the vehicle locked while the vehicle was on until I got home. When the only option I had was to take off the power relay and disconnect the battery.

Plus the steering wheel does not lock when vehicle turned off.

 

[Fordum]

Oh good, a simple one.
First, look "under" the key switch on the column. I don't know exactly how to explain this. You see the molded part of the steering column that the key comes out of? Look kinda at the base of that underneath and you will see either a depression with a small hole in it, or a slot.
Turn the key to the "run" position, and use something about the size of the dull end of a 1/8 inch drill bit. An allen wrench about that size will work too.
Put it in the hole and press in. You should feel something give slightly. Pull on the ears of the key switch part, and it should slide out of the colum. That is the lock cylinder. If not, wiggle it and push a little more. There is a pin that holds it in place. Its not spring loaded, but can only be pushed in in the run position.
When you pull the lock cylinder out, you should see a round shaft on the end, with a strange shaped head on the end of it.
Odds are that head has broken off. If so, you are pretty much home free. Look in the hole, and with any luck you can use a pair of tweezers to get the broken off piece out.
There is a hardened steel round plate in the hole with a hole in the plate that the end will only go through one way.
That plate is held in by a snap ring. If you cannot get the broken off piece out, you will have to use a long pair of snap ring pliers or two picks out get the ring and plate out.

But usually the broken piece will come out.
After that, you just need to go the parts store and buy a new lock cylinder. It will come with keys. If the pin on the side is sticking out, press in on it with your finger while you turn the key ot run. Once the pin is flush, just stick the cylinder in, and turn it to off. That will turn the car off and extend the pin.
BTW, if that end is broken off, you need to oil the parts in the column because the grease has dried and hardened and putting too much load on the cylinder.

Keep your old parts, and after the weekend, drive to a locksmith somewhere, pull the new cylinder out, and hand both to him. He should be able to rekey the new one to the old key.

If that part is not broken, then you will have to dig deeper. Post back, and we can talk you through that. Also, if you cannot find the release hole, I can take a pic of my truck to show kinda what you are looking for.

 

[blackandgold51]

Oh good, a simple one.
First, look "under" the key switch on the column. I don't know exactly how to explain this. You see the molded part of the steering column that the key comes out of? Look kinda at the base of that underneath and you will see either a depression with a small hole in it, or a slot.
Turn the key to the "run" position, and use something about the size of the dull end of a 1/8 inch drill bit. An allen wrench about that size will work too.
Put it in the hole and press in. You should feel something give slightly. Pull on the ears of the key switch part, and it should slide out of the colum. That is the lock cylinder. If not, wiggle it and push a little more. There is a pin that holds it in place. Its not spring loaded, but can only be pushed in in the run position.
When you pull the lock cylinder out, you should see a round shaft on the end, with a strange shaped head on the end of it.
Odds are that head has broken off. If so, you are pretty much home free. Look in the hole, and with any luck you can use a pair of tweezers to get the broken off piece out.
There is a hardened steel round plate in the hole with a hole in the plate that the end will only go through one way.
That plate is held in by a snap ring. If you cannot get the broken off piece out, you will have to use a long pair of snap ring pliers or two picks out get the ring and plate out.

But usually the broken piece will come out.
After that, you just need to go the parts store and buy a new lock cylinder. It will come with keys. If the pin on the side is sticking out, press in on it with your finger while you turn the key ot run. Once the pin is flush, just stick the cylinder in, and turn it to off. That will turn the car off and extend the pin.
BTW, if that end is broken off, you need to oil the parts in the column because the grease has dried and hardened and putting too much load on the cylinder.

Keep your old parts, and after the weekend, drive to a locksmith somewhere, pull the new cylinder out, and hand both to him. He should be able to rekey the new one to the old key.

If that part is not broken, then you will have to dig deeper. Post back, and we can talk you through that. Also, if you cannot find the release hole, I can take a pic of my truck to show kinda what you are looking for.

I pulled out the ignition switch and see the head intact

 

[Fordum]

Well, shoot. That takes care of the easy part.......
Still going to be easier than a Chevy though. There is enough differences between Ford models, that you will have to do some figuring on your own when you go in, but I can give you the basics.

First, here is what you are looking at. That head, turns a brass gear that sits in a geared rack which slides back and forth. It has a spring loaded end that locks the steering wheel when in the off or acc position.
The other end of the rack hooks to shaft that goes down the column to the actual switch which at the bottom of the steering column. Since your wheel does not lock, that steel rack is not sliding for some reason.
Given its a brass gear and steel rack, I suspect the gear has stripped or cracked. To get to the rack, you need to pull the steering wheel off. However, you cannot get to the brass gear easily that way. Its best to pull the round plate out of the hole if I remember right.
Its a little bit of a pain to get that locking ring out, but if you have something that you can reach down in there with, its faster to pull the gear than the steering wheel. However if you do not have anything to get that ring out with, but do have a steering wheel puller, then pulling the wheel might be easier.
Personally, I would try for the brass gear first. If I remember right, I pulled the last one out with a couple of ice picks.

There is one tricky part about the brass gear. It has to be "timed" when you put it in. In other words, it could be put in at any part of 360 degrees. The hole in it, matches the head on the cylinder, so when the cylinder is in the run position, the rack has to be there also.
If the car is in the run position, and you have to replace the gear, I would turn the cylinder to run, push the pin in, slide the gear on the shaft with just enough grease to keep if from falling off. Then gently slide the cylinder in, tap and wiggle it to get the gear to stay in the hole, and ease it back out.
If the gear is wrong, you could have the key in off, while the car was in run.

If you go for the wheel, take the screws out of the back side of the bar, lift the bar off, and take the steering wheel nut off. If there is an air bag involved, make sure the battery has been unhooked for a while, aim the bag away from you when removing it, and lay it with the bag facing up.
After you get the wheel off, I don't know what you will find. The turn signal stalk will have to come off, and the switch plate will have to slide out some to see underneath it. You will probably be able to see the problem at that point. You may be able to see it as soon as the wheel is off, since part of the rack sticks into those slots on the back side of the steering wheel.

 

[Fordum]

Thinking back, I remember one time when that brass gear split in two. If you can get that locking ring out, I would suggest to go there first. The gear should be cheap and easy to replace. If its not bad, then fixing the problem is going to be more complicated, because that steel rack will have to be bad unless the whole steering column is cracked.
I think Ford has used the same gear for years in most all models where the key was in the column. So it should be easy to find one in a junk yard.

 

[blackandgold51]

Thinking back, I remember one time when that brass gear split in two. If you can get that locking ring out, I would suggest to go there first. The gear should be cheap and easy to replace. If its not bad, then fixing the problem is going to be more complicated, because that steel rack will have to be bad unless the whole steering column is cracked.
I think Ford has used the same gear for years in most all models where the key was in the column. So it should be easy to find one in a junk yard.

I wonder how I can just take the steering wheel off although I have no tool plus the airbag will pop

 

[blackandgold51]

Thinking back, I remember one time when that brass gear split in two. If you can get that locking ring out, I would suggest to go there first. The gear should be cheap and easy to replace. If its not bad, then fixing the problem is going to be more complicated, because that steel rack will have to be bad unless the whole steering column is cracked.
I think Ford has used the same gear for years in most all models where the key was in the column. So it should be easy to find one in a junk yard.

I forgot to mention that the same day this happen when I was turning the steering wheel I was hearing a "twitch" like sound along with the steering wheelfeeling like it was hitting something

 

[Fordum]

The steel rack has a spring loaded plunger that locks the wheel. On the back side of the steering wheel is a steel ring with many slots cut in it. When you turn to off, the plunger goes into one of those slots.
If the rack did not go all the way down, the plunger might rub on the ring as the wheel turns.
Before you go any farther, get a strong light, take the cylinder out, and look down the hole. The steel plate covers most of the gear, but you can probably see the inside of the hole in the gear. If its cracked or crumbled, you can probably see the crack or parts missing.
If so, then you don't have to pull the wheel.
If you do want to pull the wheel, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or more and leave it unhooked. Most air bags will store a charge for a few minutes so they can fire in the event that a wreck destroys the battery immediately.
There should be some phillip's head screws on the back side of the steering wheel that let the front part of the center come off. Ease it off keeping your face away from the air bag.
Unplug the air bag and any other wires, making sure where they go. Put the air bag down somewhere safe with the bag part facing up. If you put it bag down, and it fired, it would launch the system fast enough to hurt someone.
Remove the large nut in the center of the wheel.
If you don't have a puller, back the nut off until its higher than the shaft, pull up on the wheel, and give the nut a firm whack with a hammer. Not too hard, and make sure that you don't spread the end of the shaft.
After a couple of whacks, if it does not come off, stop. Grab the steering wheel on opposite sides, pull straight up hard and wiggle it from side to side and top to bottom. Make sure you pull evenly.
You never know about steering wheels.
I have pulled more off by just pulling evenly from the sides and top and bottom than by using a puller. But if that does not do it, then you will have to go rent one at a parts house
You could make one by using a thick bar and two bolts to fit the holes in the steering wheel hub, but most auto parts places will have one you can use cheap. And they work better.

I have the steering section of my truck apart, I may be able to post some pics tomorrow.

 

[Fordum]

Actually, I posted some pics here for someone else with a Ford problem, but I can't find where I did. I need to shoot some more that are better for your problem, but here is what I have now.
The one picture is looking into the cylinder hole, the other is the brass gear covered in grease after you get the wheel and switch plate off, and the other one is the end of the key cylinder that broke off on mine.
I include it so you can compare it to the end of yours. If yours is rounded it might not engage the gear.

 

[blackandgold51]

Actually, I posted some pics here for someone else with a Ford problem, but I can't find where I did. I need to shoot some more that are better for your problem, but here is what I have now.
The one picture is looking into the cylinder hole, the other is the brass gear covered in grease after you get the wheel and switch plate off, and the other one is the end of the key cylinder that broke off on mine.
I include it so you can compare it to the end of yours. If yours is rounded it might not engage the gear.
View attachment 248613 View attachment 248614 View attachment 248621

Crap. Can't get picture. Says there is an "error"

 

[blackandgold51]

Actually, I posted some pics here for someone else with a Ford problem, but I can't find where I did. I need to shoot some more that are better for your problem, but here is what I have now.
The one picture is looking into the cylinder hole, the other is the brass gear covered in grease after you get the wheel and switch plate off, and the other one is the end of the key cylinder that broke off on mine.
I include it so you can compare it to the end of yours. If yours is rounded it might not engage the gear.
View attachment 248613 View attachment 248614 View attachment 248621

Ill wait till tomorrow for more pictures

 

[Fordum]

My fault dude. I thought you were a full member, didn't check. We used to post to photo bucket until they went nuts, and I did those. Let me see if those pics are still available there. Stand by....

 

[Fordum]

Looks like they are still there, not sure why. Hope this link works.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/OlBlueK5/library/Ford Ign Cylinder?sort=3&page=1

Not sure if you can enlarge them enough to see details.

 

[blackandgold51]

Looks like they are still there, not sure why. Hope this link works.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/OlBlueK5/library/Ford Ign Cylinder?sort=3&page=1

Not sure if you can enlarge them enough to see details.

Update:

I'm looking now for the brass hear while steer wheel is on. I see somthing yellowish.

 

[blackandgold51]

Looks like they are still there, not sure why. Hope this link works.

http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/OlBlueK5/library/Ford Ign Cylinder?sort=3&page=1

Not sure if you can enlarge them enough to see details.

Come to think of it(and sorry if I'm bothering you, the crown Victoria is the only vehicle I got ) I see the yellowish thing is the brass gear. Is there a way to pick with it with something to get the vehicle on or off until I get the part from ford? I called autozone tonight and they don't have it

 

[Fordum]

Here is the problem. Unless you see something you have not mentioned, I'm still not sure what the problem is. If its the gear, then forget Ford or a parts house. Those things are a dime a dozen. When my truck sheered off the end of the cylinder, I was a couple of miles out in a Florida swamp.
I had a phillip's screwdriver and a pair of vice grips. I pulled the steering wheel off, took off the collar with the rack and gear, put the wheel back on, and was able to crank it by pushing on a bar with my thumb.
In fact, I drove it the rest of hunting season and all summer long that way. I just got around to replacing the parts in Sept. But, I'm not sure you can do that with a later Crown Vic.
Before we go much farther, you need to get that gear out. Looking in the hole, there is usually a lot of grease. Run a rag in there and clean it out. You should see the round metal plate with the snap ring holding it in place.
That plate is in there to prevent someone from snatching out the key cylinder, and sticking a screwdriver in and cranking the car. Its round, but has a couple of tabs that engage slots in the hole that prevent it from turning.
Since the gear is behind it, you need a tool shaped like the end of the key cylinder to reach past the plate and turn the gear.
If you don't have some snap ring pliers that will reach, try a couple of sharp pointed objects to stick in the holes and compress the ring and lift it out. Once we get that plate out, we can see what the problem is.
When you pull the brass gear out, if its good then something has happened to the steel rack. Which means you will have to pull the wheel. But from the symptoms, I'm betting on the gear.
As for finding one, as far as I know Ford has used that same gear for decades, in every column mount key system they make. There should literately be millions of them out there. Practice getting that snap ring out, and you can get a gear from any pick and pull type junkyard that has keys in the ignition of its Fords in less than a minute.

In a pinch, if the gear is broken, and you get it out, then you might be able to use a screwdriver or other flat tool to pry the rack back and forth to crank and turn off the car. I don't advise it long term, because it will wear the rack, and possibly damage the inside of the cylinder hole.
Not to mention getting you curious looks from any cop that sees you cranking the car that way......

As for bothering me, thats a laugh. If things like this bothered me, I for sure would not be hanging around this place. I don't even own a GM product. Look around at the other threads. You will realize that you see one question, and sometimes a dozen people jumping in with help. Most of the people here have been helped by others, but that is not why they join in. They do it for the fun of helping others and figuring out problems.
Work on getting that brass gear out so we can narrow down the problem.

 

[campfire]

As for bothering me, thats a laugh. If things like this bothered me, I for sure would not be hanging around this place. I don't even own a GM product. Look around at the other threads. You will realize that you see one question, and sometimes a dozen people jumping in with help. Most of the people here have been helped by others, but that is not why they join in. They do it for the fun of helping others and figuring out problems.

Ding, ding, ding.

 

[blackandgold51]

Here is the problem. Unless you see something you have not mentioned, I'm still not sure what the problem is. If its the gear, then forget Ford or a parts house. Those things are a dime a dozen. When my truck sheered off the end of the cylinder, I was a couple of miles out in a Florida swamp.
I had a phillip's screwdriver and a pair of vice grips. I pulled the steering wheel off, took off the collar with the rack and gear, put the wheel back on, and was able to crank it by pushing on a bar with my thumb.
In fact, I drove it the rest of hunting season and all summer long that way. I just got around to replacing the parts in Sept. But, I'm not sure you can do that with a later Crown Vic.
Before we go much farther, you need to get that gear out. Looking in the hole, there is usually a lot of grease. Run a rag in there and clean it out. You should see the round metal plate with the snap ring holding it in place.
That plate is in there to prevent someone from snatching out the key cylinder, and sticking a screwdriver in and cranking the car. Its round, but has a couple of tabs that engage slots in the hole that prevent it from turning.
Since the gear is behind it, you need a tool shaped like the end of the key cylinder to reach past the plate and turn the gear.
If you don't have some snap ring pliers that will reach, try a couple of sharp pointed objects to stick in the holes and compress the ring and lift it out. Once we get that plate out, we can see what the problem is.
When you pull the brass gear out, if its good then something has happened to the steel rack. Which means you will have to pull the wheel. But from the symptoms, I'm betting on the gear.
As for finding one, as far as I know Ford has used that same gear for decades, in every column mount key system they make. There should literately be millions of them out there. Practice getting that snap ring out, and you can get a gear from any pick and pull type junkyard that has keys in the ignition of its Fords in less than a minute.

In a pinch, if the gear is broken, and you get it out, then you might be able to use a screwdriver or other flat tool to pry the rack back and forth to crank and turn off the car. I don't advise it long term, because it will wear the rack, and possibly damage the inside of the cylinder hole.
Not to mention getting you curious looks from any cop that sees you cranking the car that way......

As for bothering me, thats a laugh. If things like this bothered me, I for sure would not be hanging around this place. I don't even own a GM product. Look around at the other threads. You will realize that you see one question, and sometimes a dozen people jumping in with help. Most of the people here have been helped by others, but that is not why they join in. They do it for the fun of helping others and figuring out problems.
Work on getting that brass gear out so we can narrow down the problem.

Ok.

I put the new key switch in. Nothing.

I'm going to have to tear down the steering column

 

[Fordum]

Seriously, pull the brass gear before you tear into the column. You can't get to that gear from inside the column as far as I know, only from the outside through the cylinder hole. And I think its the most likely problem given your symptoms.
And if so, the easiest to fix.