Looks good, I want to build one of those for mine, how are you going through the floor and sealing it up?
CK5
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We did screw up the first bend. I put the piece in backwards and bent the wrong end.
After that we slowed way down and measured everything multiple times.
After that we slowed way down and measured everything multiple times.
I cut a 2" hole through the floor. I plan on putting some foam tape around the tube above and below the floor to seal it up.
The body is mounted on rubber mounts, it has to move relative to the roll bar.
I've been staring at the truck for about an hour now trying to figure out how to do the rear down bars. The rules say they have to weld to the "frame", but the bed has it's own frame (2x3x1/4" C-channel) and that is bolted and welded to the actual frame. I'm wondering if I would be OK welding to the bed as long as it was over one of the C-channel cross bars. It would certainly be stronger than the main hoop that's welded to 15" outriggers, but I don't know if it would pass tech.
Here's a picture for reference. The tube would come through either right around where the C channel is on the left in this picture. I could easily place it right on top of that crossmember.
I think I found a way to get it down to the frame. It will just need some short outriggers.
I only had half a day out in the shop, but I still made some progress. I ended up deciding to leave the down tubes straight and bring them down to just outside the frame behind the tool boxes where I could actually get them welded. I had to partially disassemble the rear suspension to get the tube in, but we got one mocked in place to make sure it was going to work.
That notch fits better than it looks like in that picture, I think it slipped a bit while Amber was holding it.
We're heading up on the rim on Wednesday afternoon, so I'm not sure how much more I'll get done before we leave. I may have to go buy another 10' section of tube, but I think I've got enough to finish everything up.
That notch fits better than it looks like in that picture, I think it slipped a bit while Amber was holding it.
We're heading up on the rim on Wednesday afternoon, so I'm not sure how much more I'll get done before we leave. I may have to go buy another 10' section of tube, but I think I've got enough to finish everything up.
Never seen a shop truck with a cage!
I'll just say that technically it's an NHRA 4:10 legal roll bar.
I wanted to get the drivers side door bar tacked in place today before we leave for camping tomorrow. The tube work is slow and methodical, I'm really trying to make this as unobtrusive as possible. After trying several different options, this is what I ended up with for the door bar.
I'm slouching in that shot, but I think it came out pretty good. I have to either take the arm rest/door pull out or cut a corner off of it, I think I'll just leave it out for now. The bar is removeable and I'll make some caps so the disconnects aren't sharp. Here's some shots from front to back on how it's connected to the frame.
When I get back, I'll need to duplicate the two bars on the passenger side, then I'll cut the rear bars back off, finish welding the main hoop, put it back in without welding it to the frame so I can drop it down after I tack in the rear down bars to fully weld them and paint everything along with figuring the window out. This roll bar is going to take a lot longer than I was expecting, but it's coming out nice so I'll deal with it.
I forgot one more shot from the passenger side.
Exactly what I want except the rear bars, overkill with what I do with the truck though.
I keep telling myself it’s not a race car but it sure has plenty of the parts.
I keep telling myself it’s not a race car but it sure has plenty of the parts.
I don't think the bar would provide much protection without the rear bars. You'd be better off by building a roll bar in the bed just behind the cab.
Mainly for looks and seat belts but I haven’t done any research on it.
You know, mall crawler…
It would be fine for a seat belt bar.
