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Need Help!!!!

JohnDeere

1/2 ton status
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Jan 17, 2006
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Location
Houston, Texas
I am installing a 6inch lift on my k5, and need to install a 4inch steering arm raiser. I cant get the old steering arm off the knuckel to put the new one on. I have beat it with a bfg, soaked it in oil, pryed on it, and beat it with a bfg some more. I cant find a way to get it off. Now there are 3 little adapter things that go over the studs to help hold it on. How do i get those out and the arm off? Do i need to put some heat on it? Any help would be nice.
 
those are locking washers..they are what are holding the arm on ....you should get an air hammer and PB blaster..(along with the BFH) (dont hit the threads youll be hating life after) The only way those washers (locking cone washers) come out is vibration...(the air hammer)..Hit around the studs you can also use a 20 pound sledge hammer if you dont hit other parts on your truck..

Ive done this..had to put a 6" raised arm, 3 inch raised block, and a 4" drop pitman arm and ive spent sometime getting that arm off..its not fun
 
Heat, bigger hammer. Be careful with the heat so you don't roast your balljoint.

Harley
 
i had the same issue with the steering arm on my blazer. After using the torch and the hammer and every ounce of energy it still didnt budge. I ended up finishing the lift and taking the blazer to midas where they did it in about an hour for about 50 bucks. The steering with the stock arm was off but still driveable enough to get it to the shop. If you go that route just be carefull when turning left cuz it wont turn all the way.
 
thanks guys for the help. Im going to put some heat on it in the morning and hit it with a bfg. Im taking pictures while im doing this, so ill post them up when its all said and done.
 
I just started installing a 4 inch lift and also had difficulty removing the steering arm. I did discover that hitting it from above midpoint at the "horseshoe" bend in the arm worked better than hitting it anywhere else. Make sure to keep it soaked with penetrant. The taper locks will start to work themselves out as the arm loosens. Hope this helps.
 
Well after 4 hours of beating on it, the dam thing never moved. So i adjusted the arm so i can drive it to the driveshaft shop, so they can extend my drive shaft. I'll get them to take it off and put the new one on.
 
You have to hit it DOWN. I bet you are hitting it upwards. Hit it down ward to jar the lock washers loose then it'll all slide up and off.
 
Mudstud said:
You have to hit it DOWN. I bet you are hitting it upwards. Hit it down ward to jar the lock washers loose then it'll all slide up and off.

x2. Try 2 hits down 1 up 2 down.... I had all of mine come of in a matter of mins. This worked even on a rusted to **** axle.
 
I tried that with a mini sledge, with no luck. I put heat on it, penertrating oil, and it woulnd't budge. I messed with it for over 4 hours:mad: . I got the guys at the driveshaft shop to do it today. It took them 2 hours to get it off and $70:mad: .

But thank you for your help guys.
 
I've had stubburn king-pins come apart with ease useing that P.B. BLASTER, let it soak a little,and :eek1: wow.
 
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