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Need New driveshaft for my M1008

Ronnie4wd

1/2 ton status
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Location
Stockholm.Sweden
With The 6.2 465. 205 and 6inch lift the shaft is very short and the angle is too high at the transfercase . I did grind the cv but it's too much angle so it breaks.
Who builds the best complete shaft for me.
And Again thankyou all for listening and helping.
It has been some time since being here but hopefully i am back as it was some years ago.
 
With The 6.2 465. 205 and 6inch lift the shaft is very short and the angle is too high at the transfercase . I did grind the cv but it's too much angle so it breaks.
Who builds the best complete shaft for me.
And Again thankyou all for listening and helping.
It has been some time since being here but hopefully i am back as it was some years ago.
Bunch of them in the US, shipping might be super expensive

Two best IMO
http://www.4xshaft.com


https://highangledriveline.com
 
With The 6.2 465. 205 and 6inch lift the shaft is very short and the angle is too high at the transfercase . I did grind the cv but it's too much angle so it breaks.
Who builds the best complete shaft for me.
And Again thankyou all for listening and helping.
It has been some time since being here but hopefully i am back as it was some years ago.

Tom Woods driveline. Call them very helpfull. I've ordered 2 from them they were at my doorstep from the time I ordered 3 or 4 days. You might want a cardan shaft. That's what I put in my blazer.
 
Put a non CV style yoke on the 205. 1410 or high angle 1350 tom woods joints work really well.
There is really no benefit to the CV for your truck.
 
With The 6.2 465. 205 and 6inch lift the shaft is very short and the angle is too high at the transfercase . I did grind the cv but it's too much angle so it breaks.
Who builds the best complete shaft for me.
And Again thankyou all for listening and helping.
It has been some time since being here but hopefully i am back as it was some years ago.
I would definitely recommend tom woods for international.
They are just as good as the others in experience and quality and they already deal with international clients.
I also agree you're better off with a 1410 non cv
 
So I emailed highangle this Friday let's see if there is any answer in a couple of days.
I should send one to tomwoods too.
If I go without the Cv is there someone here who does that with the same or similar setup as me. And can tell me that it works.
6.2-465-205-60-14 and 6" lift.
I don't drive it on the street.
Good to see some of you "old" guys still here.
 
So I emailed highangle this Friday let's see if there is any answer in a couple of days.
I should send one to tomwoods too.
If I go without the Cv is there someone here who does that with the same or similar setup as me. And can tell me that it works.
6.2-465-205-60-14 and 6" lift.
I don't drive it on the street.
Good to see some of you "old" guys still here.
I don’t think I’d try without a Cv on 6”.

The CV is going to help with the angle at that lift as much as the vibration (for street)
 
I had contact with both tomwoods and highangle driveline.
The shaft with 1410 cv and 1410yoke will be quite expensive but I think I need it. The big trouble now is that the shipping, custom fee and taxes in Sweden are almost as expensive as the shaft :thinking:
 
I had contact with both tomwoods and highangle driveline.
The shaft with 1410 cv and 1410yoke will be quite expensive but I think I need it. The big trouble now is that the shipping, custom fee and taxes in Sweden are almost as expensive as the shaft :thinking:
I am surprised you don't find someone in Sweden to do this for you

All these are just medium duty parts adapted to smaller trucks.
You can also buy the special parts which will be much cheaper and have the driveshafts made there.
That will also save you on customs
 
Im sure you can find a driveline shop that builds driveshafts for big trucks and have then build it for you. I have always had local driveline shops build my driveshafts and they were all ways working on big machinery and could order any dana/spicer yokes/joints/cv’s. Etc, or i could bring my parts in and they would tube it. They did it same day or next day, depending on how busy they were.

That will definitely be your cheapest option. Plus you wont have to wait for shipping /customs, etc.
 
You could build a 1480 driveshaft (ujoint out of d60 front axle). Those have much more angle than 1350/1410, and then you wouldnt need a CV. Especially if not driving in 4wd on the street, wouldnt even need to balance it.

You just need 2 stock d60 outer shafts and can cut them down to make yokes for driveshaft. I bought all the prts to do it but ended up selling off before I got to build it. Would be very strong and handle the angle you need
 
I of course went against what everyone else is doing, and built my own shafts.
My rig is off road only so balance wasn't an issue, although I did take the rear shaft to a drive line company and had it static balanced.

My rig has a 454 T-400/203/205 setup in the stock mounts in a 79 K5 frame. D60/14bt FF

I wanted 1410's in all locations so I only needed to carry 1 type of u-joint for spares.
the rear is made with 3" tube /1410 yokes with long travel spline slip yoke.

The front is made with 1/4" wall square tube to act as the slip, with 1410 yokes on the D60 and 205. It took a little grinding to get full clearance at the T-case under full drop, but the extra length of the doubler helped out.

A lot of people don't like the square tube idea for the slip, but I have never had an issue with it. I put two grease zerks in the outer tube and give it a few pumps of grease before we take it out on the trail for the day..

My driveline shop helped select all of the yokes out of an old Spicer catalog, and even had everything in stock.
 
i did a nv4500 and 205 combo on a friends blazer with 5" suspension lift / shackle flip kit and axle back 1" .

we used a flange for the rear to let the mid 2000 - 2015 ford superduty stock spicer made all 1350 front drive shaft bolt up . we had to take 2" out and have it balanced but that was easy at the local shaft shop .

he was 150 for the flange / 50 for the shaft used junk yard item / 30 shipping / 75 shorten and balance / 4 ford bolts to hold it to the flange 10 bucks . she has been great and no vibes up to 90mph on 37" tires .
 
I have bbc 465 with ranger overdrive 203/205 doubler on my k5. 4 to 5" lift.

Is your axle flange pointing straight at the tc?
 
I have bbc 465 with ranger overdrive 203/205 doubler on my k5. 4 to 5" lift.

Is your axle flange pointing straight at the tc?
No but there is no troubles with vibration if that's what you are thinking bc it's only a slow trailrig.
The big issue is the angle at the tc.
The 1310 at the d60 works, less angle there.
 
If you arent driving it on the street the square tube, and 1480’s would get it done.

1480 ujoints can handle 38*

piece it together:
2 of these:
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=130
Need one of these:
https://cmgearworks.com/product/dan...pinion-yoke-u-joint-chevy-ford-dodge-upgrade/
And one of these:
https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/ndt-00104.html

Shipping would be much cheaper because it is smaller packages and then have a local shop tube it with whatever size slip you want, or use square tube.

Not sure how much HAD or Tom Wood’s quoted + shipping, but that would be less than $350 for everything + shipping.

That would be a stout setup IMO.
 
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the max working angle of a 1350 is less than a 1310 but the 1350 is stronger .

this is why lots of guys are now going 1410 or 1480 as there working angle is much better and the strength is were it needs to be .
 
If you arent driving it on the street the square tube, and 1480’s would get it done.

1480 ujoints can handle 38*

piece it together:
2 of these:
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=130
Need one of these:
https://cmgearworks.com/product/dan...pinion-yoke-u-joint-chevy-ford-dodge-upgrade/
And one of these:
https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/ndt-00104.html

Shipping would be much cheaper because it is smaller packages and then have a local shop tube it with whatever size slip you want, or use square tube.

Not sure how much HAD or Tom Wood’s quoted + shipping, but that would be less than $350 for everything + shipping.

That would be a stout setup IMO.
This seems like the best option right now.
The wet dream would be finding the stuff here in sweden.
 
If you arent driving it on the street the square tube, and 1480’s would get it done.

1480 ujoints can handle 38*

piece it together:
2 of these:
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=130
Need one of these:
https://cmgearworks.com/product/dan...pinion-yoke-u-joint-chevy-ford-dodge-upgrade/
And one of these:
https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/ndt-00104.html

Shipping would be much cheaper because it is smaller packages and then have a local shop tube it with whatever size slip you want, or use square tube.

Not sure how much HAD or Tom Wood’s quoted + shipping, but that would be less than $350 for everything + shipping.

That would be a stout setup IMO.
The yoke on the 205 as I can see it on northerndrivetrain can only handle 30 degrees and I need 40.
Is there something I don't see?
 

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