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Need some 700R4 help...back together post 64!

It would be great if you knew what kit was used so you could find the instructions for that kit. When you say 2 checkballs, you mean below the seperator plate, right?
 
Yes, they're on the valve body side.
One of the parts says "shift kit" and a patent nbr, and the pics appear to be a transgo kit. S that's my best guess. But I couldn't find a manual on their web page
 
700-R4_37_checkballs.jpg


It looks like the later transmissions (with auxiliary valve body - '87+?) only use the 2 red ones. The transmission may be newer than the truck and it is common to upgrade to newer components when the transmission is rebuilt. I think there is also a mod that improves the 3-4 clutch holding power that removes that check ball #3. So the best guess I can give is that your 2 check balls go in the locations marked in red above.
 
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For the record, some shift kits require removing certain checkballs and drilling holes in that separator plate. I had to do that to my th400 for my kit.
 
All put back together, flushed with fresh fluid and a new cooler (bypassing oem for now).

Annnnnddddddd. Same ****ing thing. Now I can't make it shift at all.....stuck in 1st.

I've got a new pres gauge on the way, so at least I can get some line pressures readings. Given what we've done so far, maybe this an internal issue...I dunno.

Feel WAY over my head at this point :(
 
You may have put your balls in the wrong slots. And, if your valve body is anything like a female body, they dont take kindly to you doing such things to them.

If you feel your going to have to yank it out, let me know and I can help ya. Im at a standstill on mine until I get my rear driveshaft built. So, I dont have much better to do these days. It brings the suck I will admit, but luckily on these old trucks its a quick and mostly painless job.
 
Yeah unfortunately its starting to look like that. UPS delivered my new gauge today, so in the AM I'm going to hook it all up and take some readings for fun.

How much should a rebuild run, ballpark?
 
Well the parts are like $200-$500, depending on what you want. A shop will charge about $2k for the whole thing. Maybe not much over $1k if you bring the tranny in. You could try a junkyard tranny, but it's a gamble. You might also check the classifieds here. A used unit can cost less than somebody's time to go through everything. Transmission rebuild seems really expensive until you do it. The first one took me like 4 days from start to driving again.
 
Just a plain Jane nothing fancy rebuild that'll shift out of 1st will make me happy really. I'll keep an eye out in the classifieds, as $1k just isn't ideal right now.
 
bigred88 said:
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/3711870236.html

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/pts/3664236572.html

There's a few others on there, and also some guy in Imperial who seems to advertising rebuilds for $500, but his ad is kind of confusing. I know craigslist is something of a crapshoot, too, but I'd think maybe a little better than snatching a complete unknown out of a junkyard?:dunno:
Click to expand...

The last one I got from a junkyard charged me 400 plus
Core so it isn't the cheapest rought either. Hot a three month warrantee but had to pull it after 2. 2nd one ran good and still goin.
 
Meh, just find a rebuild kit, and any extra parts you would like (Beast sunshell!!!!) and Il do it for free, or a case or two of beer.

Taking it out yourself will only save maybe 200 to maybe 350$ depending on shop rate. R@R (remove and restore) is the easy part, and since I would bet that books on flat rate at a 3.5hr job to remove and restore, that wont save you a whole lot. Like I said, I can do it over a weekend if you would like.
 
Meh, Im terribly guilty of helping people out. Built an 8.1L and then dynoed it for a night at the bar. But yea, give me a shout.
 
If you have the time, then rebuild it yourself, or have someone (454Sub) help so you can learn.....It is not hard, just time consuming.

You've heard the phrase " If I can do it, then anyone can" ? That's a fact when it comes to me doing my own rebuilds.

I impress myself sometimes, but I do get a lot of knowledge from CK5 and service manuals.

And it's a great learning experience!!!!

If you drink before or during a rebuild, it's a sure bet that when you get it all assembled you'll see a checkball on the floor and think WTF? Well, for me anyways.

And have fun!
 
I'm a little late to the party here and don't have a lot to add, you have been getting good help from Blue 85 and it apears you have checked the valve body over very well. For a 1-2 shift to occur you have to have enough governor pressure to stroke the 1-2 shift valve which has tv pressure holding it closed. If TV pressure is too strong, such as when the valve is stuck, it will not allow a 1-2 shift. Also, if the 1-2 shift valve is stuck, the same thing can happen. The governor has to be able to provide enough pressure as well, so have another look at that and be sure the valve moves freely and that the governor shaft is solidly fixed to the body. I would even go as far as pulling the gear and the valve and making sure the bore in the shaft isn't worn out. There is also a governor filter in the case under the pressure plate, has this been removed and cleaned? If it is trapping contaminants you will loose governor pressure and thus shifts.Unless there is something in the trans coming apart to create enough fine metal to hang valves you should be able to fix this from the outside without having to pull the trans. The fact that you sometimes have good shifts and correct shift points leads me to believe this is a control issue.
 
Thanks Greg. I've had a few days off from working on this pig, so tomorrow I'm going to take a fresh look, hook up the psi gauge and see what's what. Probably pull the VB and the sep plate (ill watch my balls this time lol).

This sounds sick, but while it's definitely frustrating, its fun and rewarding at the same time. Maybe I'm just a glutton for punishment :)

Again guys thanks a bunch for the pointers and offers to help out, I do appreciate it!!!
 
Okay, pressures:

At idle in any gear, 140psi

Going from P to R, drop to 70 then back to 140. Accel in R, up to 230 then down to 190 steady until idle then back to 140

1/2 gears: jump to 170 at idle, no change when accel, no shift from 1-2.

OD or D:140 at idle, no change accelerating, no shift from 1st gear.

So, is this telling me I have no tv pressure?
 
Sounds like too much tv pressure, line should drop to 70 or so at idle and 150-170 at wide open on a good trans.
 
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