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Need some help M1009 will not start up.

84CUCV

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
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I need to move this truck by the end of the day. Been working on it for a little while. Have new glow plugs, belts, batteries and a push button for the glow plugs installed. This truck is only been sitting about six months. Started okay last time. That's why I put a new glow plugs. Not getting any smoke out the tailpipe. It's only me here right now. I'm trying to avoid having to pay hundreds to have it towed to my house. Nothing like waiting for the last-minute. Has half a tank of fuel. Fuel looks clean. Fuel filter only has a few thousand miles on it before it was parked. Anyone have some ideas? thanks for the help
 
Diesel fuel has a limited life span. Without an additive, it can easily go bad before 6 months. That is something to consider.

No smoke out the tailpipe may mean you're not getting fuel. Check to make sure that the lift pump is getting fuel to the injection pump. Also, the injection pump has a shut off solenoid. If that solenoid goes bad/is not hooked up/not getting power, it will never start. Your injection pump could be shot. Check for leakage and adequate pressure to the lines.

You could have an air leak. Check all your lines and injectors. Bubbling from the line when you loosen it indicates air in the system. As you probably know, diesels are much less tolerant of air in the system than gas motors, and if it has been sitting a while, there is always the possibility of air getting in if the system is compromised.

Have you actually checked the fuel filter? If it has run dry for whatever reason, it can take a bit of cranking to fill it back up.

It's unlikely, but make sure your injection pump is not out of time. There are reference lines on the block and the pump. If the pump got knocked around or has been recently worked on, this can be an issue. Improper timing can result in hard starting or no start.

Your air filter could be clogged. Not unheard of for rodents to build a nest in there, choking off the engine. Check your exhaust pipe for obstruction too.

You could have a clogged line or pickup in the tank.

Make sure the glow plugs are heating up. Granted it should start eventually without them, but it's an easy check.

Hope this gets you started, I'm sure some other members will chime in shortly. Good luck!
 
My truck has sat for easily 6 months twice while I have owned it and it always starts right back up. I don't know how long it takes for diesel to go bad, but it's far longer than that.

Have you checked that the glow plugs are working? Throw a multimeter on them, they are easy to test.

I agree with paratrooper that no fuel is a high possibility.

I have heard people crack the injection lines open a little to see if fuel leaks out, but I have never tried this myself.
 
My first guess would be you have a very small leak in the fuel lines somewhere and it is air locked. Assuming the batteries are good and the glow plugs are working that would be the first place I would look. Try doing the normal bleeding procedure like when you replace the fuel filter. If that doesn't work you can try cracking the injector lines.

I doubt fuel would get bad enough to cause this issue after 6 months. I grew up in the farm country and it wasn't unusual for equipment to sit longer than that and never heard of any issues.
 
Unless the fuel got water in it,I doubt its "stale" enough to matter...
I've used diesel fuel in the loader at the junkyard we siphoned from trucks that sat for a long time,one for 10 years,and as long as the fuel looked water free,we'd use it..it always ran OK...my Suburban had a full tank when I parked it in fall of 2009,it still has 1/4 of a tank,and starts about the same as it did then too..gasoline,now thats a whole different story--nowadays 3 months gas turns to varnish or gum!..

I would make sure the glow plugs are being energized,the relay could sound like its working,but not making good contact inside at the internal connections,they corrode over time...also ensure 12V is getting to the fuel shutoff switch on the injector pump with the key "on"...

I have used a tire pump or air compressor to blow some air into the fuel tank to "prime" a diesel that sat a long time and had air get in the lines,or was run out of fuel--be careful not to let too much pressure get in the tank or you might make a weak spot or seam leak...

If it still refuses to fire,you could try starting fluid as a last resort--but dont turn on the glow plugs,leave them off,or disable them,and if you tried using them,wait a good 10 minutes before trying the starting fluid...its best to have someone crank it over full tilt before spraying it in the intake too---spraying it in the intake,then getting in the truck to crank it is not good ,it will want to bind up or kick back and can damage the engine or starter drive..
I bet once you get it to fire up even for a few seconds,it'll start up and run OK..
 
When I parked it I have put locus fuel stabilizer in their. If the fuel is jelling is raping I can dump him to get rid of it? Have some time to go back in the morning get this done I hope
 
I doubt the fuel is gelling. It was 60 degrees at my house yesterday. :dunno:
 
It don't think you're getting fuel to the injector pump. Did you check to see if it's getting to or out of the supply pump? The new fuel goes bad fast,as mentioned. Can't compare to good old non-low sulphur fuel. Although,it has always been bad ju-ju to run old diesel. Maybe some luck out,but about 10 years ago I had a truck that had sat maybe a year because it needed an IP. I put a new IP on and the first thing I did was make a run for truck stuff 10 hours away (with same fuel still in tank). While manuvering my trailer to load a cab the truck kept stalling. All the way back it would stall between shifts or any time I lifted off the peddle,then be hard to start. It was interstate and I made it back. The issue? In 400 miles that old fuel destroyed by new IP because the fungicides eroded the pump bore.
This stuff forms a wax and you can't see it. You need to see if you have fuel anywhere in your lines because it could very well be the screen on the pickup in tank is clogged or restricted enough to supply the IP. I would go ahead and pit another filter on gain. This one could be clogged and/or you want to filter any of whatever might be causing the problem
My '92 6.5TD is my daily work truck that gets a fresh tank ever week and I had this issue a couple months ago. It would start but falter going down the road when tank was getting low. Got worse till it was stalling,then stalling every so many feet,then no start. Was stuck along the road and blew in the line between the supply pump and tank and it drove home flawlessly. But the problem would come back. I was stumped and I've been running these diesels since the '80s and am very familiar with them. Even when I dropped the tank and inspected the screen I saw nothing. The tank and fuel within looked like a new truck. I blew 100 psi of air through the screen and that didn't even show a circle or change anything about how it looked. It looked fine nd that was my last possible issues. I did notice,though,that it didn't feel like 100# coming through when I held my hand on the other side and air was blowing back across the hand holding the nozzle. Can't explain,have theories,but somethings you may never know why but all I know is it runs fine now that I replace the float/sending unit. My 6.2 Jimmy sits all winter and always starts in the spring,so go figure.
My buddy has a Cat diesel in a '58 Reo and last year the first weekend in May he took it out for the first time since the end of September and it died less than 10 miles from his house. It was bad fuel and he said it formed a wax in his tank,lines,and filters
 
I did see an issue in a M1009 on a trailride with us several years ago. The truck had sat for an unknown period of time before the guy purchased it but never had any issues up to this point. He had the truck for almost a year fixing it up and had gone through 4-5 tanks of fuel and installed a new fuel filter. On this trail the truck started running progressively worse and stalling, to the point it would no longer start. After some trouble-shooting we pulled the fuel filter and it was obviously plugged with some sort of dark substance, presumably fungus or simply stale fuel. A new fuel filter and some additive cleared it up. Our guess is that all of the off-roading jarred some of the crap loose and finally plugged the filter. But still, it's not like it ran perfectly fine one second and wouldn't start the next.... but there is a chance something like that happened.
 
Lot of good ideas given already. I am often called to help many around me with the 6.2's, even the PD because they have many M1009's. When they have a no start issue here is what I do.

Note: absolutely check for a grounded engine. If its turning over you should be OK and use your engine alternator bracket for the 12v test light ground.

1. Take a simple 12v test light and check for a "light on" condition with:
a. key on, put probe of test light on red wire on IP red wire
2. When glow is in "on" cycle or if pushing the installed push button:
a. put tester probe on each glow plug blade

If there is power in both circumstances move to fuel system.

1. Lift pump and fuel getting to filter check
a. remove red wire from IP solenoid
b. open black bleeder "star" at top of filter
c. turn motor over to check for fuel pulsing out of filter drain line

If there is fuel pulsing out of the filter drain line then you have fuel to the system as far as the filter housing.

1. IP check, re-attach the red solenoid feed wire
a. crack the easiest and cleanest injector line at the injector
b. turn the motor over and look for the fuel coming out around the injector.
c. if fuel is present and you have all above conditions there is probable cause for low compression which your start issue is common with a cold and contracted engine. You said it started not the good 6 months ago but it was warmer then. You said it didn't start that good either but let me guess, as the engine got warm it ran OK.

Try this: Take the oil fill cap off when turning the engine over and see if any amount of puffing comes up and out the fill neck. If you finally get it started, let it run and do the same. I've seen lots of "Wabash Cannonballs" in my time. The look just like old train steam locomotives the compression was so bad.

On the bad fuel issue: I just got my 6.2 project finished. It sat for at least 8 years in my garage with the same fuel and it has run perfectly. More often then fuel going bad is people buying bad fuel. Fuel with lots of moisture or bacteria that hasn't gotten bad yet when first bought. Upper NY state is notorious for extremely bad fuel at most stations.
Actually what happens is what's in the fuel goes bad, not the fuel itself.
 
cracked an injector. no fuel. fuel filter has some white stuff it. getting towed up here soon.. guess i have bad fuel. thought diesel fuel lasted a long time.
 
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