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Need some help on front steering/leaf movement diagnosis - LOTS of pictures

dbreid

dbreid

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All,
I need a little advice. This will be long, but will hopefully answer some of the questions you all might have for me when reading this.

The Truck: 1989 V2500 Suburban. 350, dual front shocks

I wanted a slight lift to fit the 35"s on there, so I added front and rear Rancho "Add-A-leaves" as well as front and rear Zero Rates. I did the lift (with new U-bolts) roughly 5 years ago. Have probably driven it 25,000 miles since then.

Other important information: My girlfriend and I are are about to take this truck (we leave in a little less than two weeks) on a roadtrip from California to Banff Canada and back. Two weeks. I NEED the truck to be safe and reliable. I can fix most anything, but I don't want to fix it on the road if I can help it.

THE ISSUE:

So... Lately I have been noticing that when the truck is stationary (in drive) with my foot on the brake turning the wheel, things squak and pop in the front drivers side...

I only recently started noticing this because: 1.) We just moved to a place where I need to parallel park and 2.) I recently replaced the loud dual exhaust with quieter single exhaust... :)

This evening, I had my girlfriend saw the wheel back and forth while I crouched under the truck and looked at things.

Here are some pictures of the setup (questions at the end):

front_01.jpg


front_02.jpg



front_04.jpg


front_03.jpg
 
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Now to the questions/Issues

Now to the questions/Issues:

OK, when my girlfriend moves the wheel back and forth, the add a leaf moved forward and back, along with the Zero rate slightly. This is where I am getting the rust where the add-a-leaf meets the stock spring pack...

So my questions:

1.) Is the angle of the connector rod between the steering box and the steering arm OK?

2.) Is that messed up arched third leaf an issue? If it is, should I replace it with EZ rides from ORD?

3.) What should I do to ensure it is safe?

More pictures with questions on them to help:



front_04_02.jpg


front_04_03.jpg
 
Grab the drag link and twist it. Will probably straighten out, so no, not an issue.

As to the add-a-leaf, it looks to me like they aren't made for the negative/neutral arch of the stock front suspension. I'm no spring expert though.

If the leaf is moving front/back, doesn't that mean the spring pin in the center is sheared or not engaging the hole in the perch?
 
Where the arrows are showing the space between the leaves, take a C clamp and squeeze the leaves together and bend the ends of the spring clamp over the top spring. Make sure the U bolts are tightened to 100 ft. lbs. That angle on the drag link is OK, but the drag link end in relationship to the steering box arm is a little cocked. You need to loosen the sleeve and make them level with each other, does that make sense?
Tarey
 
dyeager535 said:
If the leaf is moving front/back, doesn't that mean the spring pin in the center is sheared or not engaging the hole in the perch?
Click to expand...

Yes. That was my theory as well.

I could replace it, but for the effort (I'd have to jack it up and pull the Ubolts etc) to figure it out, I am thinking that I might just put in some better spring packs.

Thoughts? Again, my main concern is safety, as I have a Looooooong way to drive.

-Dan
 
GNERGY said:
That angle on the drag link is OK, but the drag link end in relationship to the steering box arm is a little cocked. You need to loosen the sleeve and make them level with each other, does that make sense?
Click to expand...

Yes, that makes sense.

And the UBolts are torqued down HARD. I could check them tomorrow with my digital Torque Wrench to be sure, though.

Either way, I am afraid the pin inside is sheared....
 
Only one way to find out -- Take it apart and take a gander! I'd personally suggest replacing those springs though, they look pretty pooched!

BTW, if you have trouble North of the border -- I am only about a 4hr drive from Banff, and could easily be convinced to come see the mountains! Err... I mean fix your truck!
 
Russell said:
Only one way to find out -- Take it apart and take a gander! I'd personally suggest replacing those springs though, they look pretty pooched!

BTW, if you have trouble North of the border -- I am only about a 4hr drive from Banff, and could easily be convinced to come see the mountains! Err... I mean fix your truck!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am leaning towards just putting in new EZ rides. If the truck breaks and the axle decides to part ways with the truck, my GF will be mighty pissed, and I might get killed before I have a chance to get it fixed. :)

So looking at the 1 inch zero rate, and the wacked add a leaf and bent spring pack, what size EZ ride should I get from Tuff Country? I have a Warn M12000 and a HEAVY DUTY DIY4x front bumper, as well as a dual bettery setup and full A/C, so the front is some what more heavy. I am thinking of getting the 3". Does that seem like enough? I guess if it sags, I could always put in the zero rates again?

-Dan
 
Something is definately wrong with that overload spring. If it is allowed to stay that way you will end up breaking the main leaf and that wouldn't be good.

The spring moving forward/backward is a definate sign of a broken center pin. You can buy them at most auto parts stores (we carry them at my store) and they come 12" long so you just cut to the desired length. They do come in a few diameters as well but IIRC GM uses 3/8" center pins on most of the front springs.

Like someone else already said, just loosen the adjuster sleeve on the draglink and make each end match each other and then lock the bolts back down.
 
I'd just go for the 3" spring lift, with the zero rate you'll be sitting pretty at 4" of lift up front. If you need a raised steering arm, let me know as I do have one that I can part with at the moment. Extended brake lines are also a good idea.

Do you have your axle moved forwards with the zero rate, or are you just using it as a 1" lift? How is your rear set up?
 
front leafs 3" ride(HD?). You're runnning a lot of weight up front. Get the raised steering arm and keep the easy inch in there. You'll be sitting nicely. If shocks are in your future think about on the cheap with a really nice ride... 02 F 350 shocks front and rear. Buy whatever brand you like and install. You'll only have to drill out the lower mount sleeve within the main eye and they are the right length for roughly 4-5" lift. I love mine as well.

That stuff should make your trip more comfortable and ease your mind a bit. enjoy


edited. And yes get rid of pro comp shocks. If you go HD springs and the shocks you can run single front shock easily and get a much better ride. even with the weight and everything.
 
Just ordered 3" HD Tuff Country, a dropped Pitman arm, new U-bolts, and ORD front shackles. That should fix it. :)
 
Might consider replacing the upper shackle bushings too. Someone mentioned to torque the U bolts to 100- make that 150. I know some mfgs of lift blocks specify around 100 or so but not for a normal- non block set ups.
 
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I torque all 5/8" diameter U-bolts to 135 ft/lbs. and then retorque after a few miles of driving.
 
Mudstud said:
Might consider replacing the upper shackle bushings too. Someone mentioned to torque the U bolts to 100- make that 150. I know some mfgs of lift blocks specify around 100 or so but not for a normal- non block set ups.
Click to expand...

I got a set of these while I was at it, so that should cover it.

frontshackle01.JPG
 
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