New 10 bolt issues / questions

[jonrpick]

Ok... I finally started work back on my rear axle. I just came from underneath the truck, and while cleaning out the axle housing, I found metal shavings. My inspection of the parts didn't find anything out of the ordinary. The bearings seem good.

Anyway, I saw this...

Look at those weird wear marks. The funny thing is, that's not actually where the bearing races or carrier shims ride. There should be nothing moving against that area.



Is this something I shouldn't worry about? Finding the metal shavings has me thinking that I need to completely replace everything in there.

 

[dyeager535]

I'm at a loss for that one. It almost looks like someone had hit it with something in the past, repeatedly. No idea why that would be there, or why it would hurt anything.

 

[jonrpick]

I'm at a loss for that one. It almost looks like someone had hit it with something in the past, repeatedly. No idea why that would be there, or why it would hurt anything.

Yeah, my thoughts exactly. It's not on the other side, and it doesn't look like it was put there in the manufacturing process.

Either way, I'm just getting real burned out about not having all the tools I need to properly rebuild this axle. And doing it while it's in the truck is a royal pain. Think I'll just go back to my plan of swapping it, and rebuilt it outside of the truck. That way I can learn to do it the right way, and not be held up anymore.

 

[Jason4x4]

maybe the shaft broke at some point, and it was hitting the housing there.

 

[readymix]

Looks to me like someone drove it with broken shaft for a mile or so.
I can't think of anything else that would cause that, except for someone hitting it on purpose.
I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[jonrpick]

maybe the shaft broke at some point, and it was hitting the housing there.

Looks to me like someone drove it with broken shaft for a mile or so.
I can't think of anything else that would cause that, except for someone hitting it on purpose.
I wouldn't worry about it.

It's very possible. Either way, I'm sick and tired of futzing with it, then coming in here to ask questions. And cleaning it out completely with it in the truck is gonna suck, so... I don't know.

 

[dyeager535]

What exactly are you doing here?

Screwing around with a rear 10 bolt isn't worth the time you spend on it IMO. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for a 10 bolt axle out of a truck that has the right ratio. Is this a possibility for you?

 

[vortec]

Screwing around with a rear 10 bolt isn't worth the time you spend on it IMO. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for a 10 bolt axle out of a truck that has the right ratio. Is this a possibility for you?

i sort of agree. polishing a turd, repairing a turd, neither makes a lot of sense unless maybe you can't find one with the same gearing and don't want to redo the front also, or something.

 

[jonrpick]

What exactly are you doing here?

Screwing around with a rear 10 bolt isn't worth the time you spend on it IMO. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for a 10 bolt axle out of a truck that has the right ratio. Is this a possibility for you?

i sort of agree. polishing a turd, repairing a turd, neither makes a lot of sense unless maybe you can't find one with the same gearing and don't want to redo the front also, or something.

Right now, I just need it back on the road, sooner than later. With my 31" tires and street driving, the 10-bolt will be just fine for a long time. The original axle lasted 18-19 years with a Gov-Bomb.

Will a 1988 10-bolt from a K1500 just bolt in or did something change on the pickups that year (besides the body)?

 

[dyeager535]

Probably got a different width, plus wheel studs are different I bet.

Don't get me wrong, not suggesting you go to a bigger axle (unless you find a 14SF 6 lug in the right ratio lol) just that you might be better off looking on craigslist fro rigs being parted out, and offer up $50 for a 10 bolt open diff complete axle in the right ratio. If it's a 3.08, they should GIVE it to you.

 

[jonrpick]

Probably got a different width, plus wheel studs are different I bet.

Don't get me wrong, not suggesting you go to a bigger axle (unless you find a 14SF 6 lug in the right ratio lol) just that you might be better off looking on craigslist fro rigs being parted out, and offer up $50 for a 10 bolt open diff complete axle in the right ratio. If it's a 3.08, they should GIVE it to you.

well, I've been scouring Craigslist and the classifieds here.

I found that '88 axle, and a shop that wants to rip me off for a used axle ($500 for a 10-bolt!!! WTF?!?!)

Only good options I see are a pair of 3.73 axles, 10-bolts, for $300. But of course, I gotta get a buddy with a pickup to go actually get them.

It sucks only having one truck and needing big parts.

The other option is... Get another set of jack stands, pull my disassembled POS axle out, and rebuild it completely. I have a good video that details the process. I need a press and a torque wrench (already have the in/lb wrench for checking preload) and I think that's about it... just nervous about it, that's all. I've opened more than one can of worms on this truck before.

 

[vortec]

Right now, I just need it back on the road, sooner than later. With my 31" tires and street driving, the 10-bolt will be just fine for a long time. The original axle lasted 18-19 years with a Gov-Bomb.

maybe i wasn't clear. i didn't mean go for the 14bolt, even though it has obvious benefits. i just meant it could be cheaper/easier to swap in another 10-bolt instead of fooling around with the existing one.

 

[jonrpick]

maybe i wasn't clear. i didn't mean go for the 14bolt, even though it has obvious benefits. i just meant it could be cheaper/easier to swap in another 10-bolt instead of fooling around with the existing one.

Gotcha...

If I can't find a reasonably priced 10B, I'll just rebuild.

How strong of a press would I need to be able to press on the new carrier and pinion bearings? Will a 12-ton do it, or will I need like a 20-ton?

 

[dyeager535]

No idea what press you'll need, but you'll probably need a puller for the bearings as well. Never done it, but judging by how the carrier bearings are on there, that looked like the safest way to remove them to me. Maybe you can cut them, looked a bit dicey though.

I'm not suggesting you buy an axle to rebuild...I'm suggesting you buy an axle and throw it under your truck. Before buying, pop the cover, drain the oil, watch it in operation, pull the axleshafts and look at the bearing surfaces, and call it good.

As long as they aren't a gov-lock, and haven't been beat on horribly, 10 bolts tend to hold up perfectly well for a long time. Heck, there are plenty of original axles from the 60's out there still in use. Just depends on how they are treated. If all the gears are in good shape, it's unlikely anything is wrong with it.

 

[jonrpick]

No idea what press you'll need, but you'll probably need a puller for the bearings as well. Never done it, but judging by how the carrier bearings are on there, that looked like the safest way to remove them to me. Maybe you can cut them, looked a bit dicey though.

I'm not suggesting you buy an axle to rebuild...I'm suggesting you buy an axle and throw it under your truck. Before buying, pop the cover, drain the oil, watch it in operation, pull the axleshafts and look at the bearing surfaces, and call it good.

As long as they aren't a gov-lock, and haven't been beat on horribly, 10 bolts tend to hold up perfectly well for a long time. Heck, there are plenty of original axles from the 60's out there still in use. Just depends on how they are treated. If all the gears are in good shape, it's unlikely anything is wrong with it.

If I buy an axle, it'll be to swap in. Otherwise, I'll rebuild the one I have. That way I'll at least feel pretty good about it.

I'll get a split bearing-puller for use on the press. A 20-ton is like twice as much as a 12-ton from Harbor Freight, so I'm hoping a 12-ton will do the job.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

12 tons is plenty to get bearings on/off.

Don't forget that you will need a set of calipers (to measure shims) and a dial indicator with some kind of stand (to measure backlash).

 

[jonrpick]

12 tons is plenty to get bearings on/off.

Don't forget that you will need a set of calipers (to measure shims) and a dial indicator with some kind of stand (to measure backlash).

Cool, thanks... already got the dial indicator and magnetic base. Just need calipers if the shim pack isn't marked.

BTW, is it safe to support the truck on jackstands that are placed underneath the hitch receiver (Class III) ??? I don't see where else I could stick them without them being forward of the rear axle, and I don't feel good / safe about that.

 

[roadnotca]

BTW, is it safe to support the truck on jackstands that are placed underneath the hitch receiver (Class III) ??? I don't see where else I could stick them without them being forward of the rear axle, and I don't feel good / safe about that.

I wouldn't worry about jack stands forward of the rear axle, under the frame. The front end is more than heavy enough. And I live in earthquake country.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

www.car-part.com

Last I knew the '88+ rear axles were the same width as the earlier trucks. GM kept the front track width the same so I think they kept the rear...I think. The shock mounts and spring pads are different though.

 

[jonrpick]

I wouldn't worry about jack stands forward of the rear axle, under the frame. The front end is more than heavy enough. And I live in earthquake country.

Ok, well I bought some new 12 tons from Harbor Freight tonight when I picked up my floor jack. They're big enough to where, even when bottomed out, they're supporting the frame and keeping it fairly level. I like that... one less thing to fail. Plus it frees up my 6 ton stands to support the axle when I work on it (once it's out).

I put them directly under the frame, right where the body mounts are, forward of the rear axle.

BTW, are the nuts on the u-bolts 1" or a slightly smaller metric size? I'll attack those tomorrow (my sockets are too small, and nothing is open now on NY's Eve...