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New Blazer project plan.

I agree with what you're saying, smier. I want to start with a clean truck that operates as it should. I figure if I get an auto I'll have it built nicely so as to have more confidence in it. My problem with my other trucks has been that there's too much to do upfront, so I have ran out of money and motivation to fix all the little annoying crap, so it has turned into a pile of problems. So, a good running truck that I only have to maintain will be the key starting point.

jeff in co - I have also swapped out those windows before, quick and easy. actually, pulling those windows has made for a nice easy way to break into my truck when I locked the keys in once. :doah: :haha:

In terms of cost, what would I be looking at to have a transmission shop do a mild durability build on a 700r4, assuming they do all the work of removal, build and install?
 
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I really like the auto trans truck, but i just think you would be happier in the end with the manual.
 
colbystephens said:
In terms of cost, what would I be looking at to have a transmission shop do a mild durability build on a 700r4, assuming they do all the work of removal, build and install?
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Colby there is a shop in town that built me a sick, bulletproof 700r4 for around $2000.00. I dropped off the truck with a destroyed tranny pump on a wednesday, they figured out the problem, called me and recommended a rebuild, I told them that I didn't want to have to have them replace another tranny, they said that they would beef it up alot and I had it back by monday. This was 5 years ago, so I am sure it might cost more now.
 
I dont mind an auto, i prefer manual. It seems a few ppl talk bad about the 700R, but if they are built right, they are a great piece. I actually dont mind the blazer being a auto, less time messing with the clutch and what not. For more of a trail rig/highway truck, id prob take a auto.

On a side note, love that 2 tone brown Jimmy.
 
colbystephens said:
Why?
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Its just that somewhat often i get an uneasy feeling that my trans is either slipping or over heating or is setup improperly and therefore hogging more power then it should. I just dont like how i have to accept that it seems to work ok so it must be ok. I also dont like knowing that it "slipps" just driving down the highway. I dont like that the output is spinning some degree slower then the input. I dont like whats happening that causes that. A manual just gives you a "no worries" type situation. You know exactly whats happenning all the time with a manual. You know exactly how fast the input is turning and any output speed and vis versa(or however that is spelled). All that leads to a more positive highway experience. Especially if you tow. Out in the woods is another point. You also know that with a manual, for the most part, your worst case scenario is that the clutch will not disengage. No big deal. You can still drive a truck that has that issue. You get 2 quarts low on trans fluid with an auto and your dead in the water. You crack a tranny cooler line and dont notice it till you quit moving and your really screwed. The automatics have an aluminum case that once you break one, you will be forever paranoid about breaking it again! Very rarely will something actually go wrong with the manual trans for any reason other then the clutch which should last a good 70k plus miles? and costs around $150? If you only ever cook one 700r4 that costs even just $1000, thats like a lifetime of clutches! The reliability and strength of the manual just cant be beat by an auto. There is really more then i can explain that makes me like the manuals better then the autos for a truck that will get used on the highway and out in the woods but its basically just the "feeling" and peace of mind that the manual gives.
 
On the other hand, im not bad mouthing the 700r4. If you just think it will be the bee's knee's, then im sure you will enjoy it. Certainly nicer to drive just being able to stick it in "D" and go! I just dont like all the uneasy feelings i have ever gotten out of an auto.
 
definately get the stick, i switched to an auto car for a few months as my daily driver and I hate it. Constantly shifting when I dont want it to. When I'm driving a stick I can plan my moves and anticipate my shifts to accelerate/deccelerate. The whole convenience argument about autos in traffic is moot, I'd rather work my left leg a little than have the trans be in the wrong gear when I want instant acceleration. Did I mention it made me really board driving it?
 
I emailed the guy a couple days ago, he hasn't gotten back to me. Couple other rigs are by phone only, so I'll wait till I get home in a week to pursue those.
 
colbystephens said:
I emailed the guy a couple days ago, he hasn't gotten back to me. Couple other rigs are by phone only, so I'll wait till I get home in a week to pursue those.
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Rule of thumb for CL is that if they dont list a phone number they aren't serious about selling. Don't even bother sending them an email it will just be a waste of your time.
 
Eh, I've had decent luck with emailing people on there. The last two fooktards that I've had trouble with were phone call only people.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Eh, I've had decent luck with emailing people on there. The last two fooktards that I've had trouble with were phone call only people.
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My experience is the more info they have both on the item and contact info, the more serious they are about selling it.

I like the 700r4 when it's freshly built-built. It can be very tough, but just like my 200r4 I had in my Hurst/Olds, you gotta be very particular who rebuilds it. I sent my 200r4 and torque converter halfway across the country to get it rebuilt by a guy who pretty much only builds them for Hurst/Olds, 442s and Grand Nationals. If I rebuild this 700r4 of mine, it'll be done the same way.
 
Here is my take...
My truck is a 1977 K10 350V8.
Had a Th350 auto , np205, 10bolt/12bolt with 3:08's and 34xx10.5 TSL's.

Well the transmission sucked water on a wheeling trip two weekends ago. SUCKED getting it out of the woods and then another 75 miles home.

Now it has a SM465 with hydro clutch.

Was defiantly easier to wheel technical sections with the auto. The Manual is great going down steep hills and the granny gear rocks. The Sm465 is heavier then the automatic. Millage with my current set up is poor and seems a little worse then the automatic as i am turning 2,300 RPM at 62 mph. I know alot of this is due to the gearing but I am planning on swapping in my 6.2 with banks turbo so the gearing would be better then.

The Sm465 is a heck of a lot tougher and the truck feels like it has more power. For a rig that sees a lot of highway I think OD would be nice to have but its not bad with the 465. Prefer the sm465 because it is less likley to leave me in the woods then the Auto.

I believe the np208 is behind that sm465 in the 88 k5 but could be wrong.
 
Well, the guy called me today. So, we'll see what he has to say. I called back, but no answer. If it's in as good a shape as it looks, I'll probably go for it. That also assumes someone doesn't buy it before I can get home to Reno next Friday. :doah: Fortunately, there's not much market for these rigs right now! :D
 
y5mgisi said:
Which one?
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The purty '88 w/ the manual trans.

I just spoke with the guy. Here's the story. Dude's bought it 20 years ago or so from the first owner. Throughout that time he had the rear end replaced/rebuilt.

At some point a line to the A/C condenser broke, so that will need to be repaired.

Around 60K ago he put a replacement engine in it. The longblock was put together by a local machine shop, he just installed the engine. At that time, he didn't hook up the cruise control again.

6 years ago he sold the truck to his brother because it was just sitting being not used, though he drove it around the block every once and a while to keep everything moving. His brother basically didn't drive it either.

The truck apparently has a little surface rust on the upper part of the driver's door and on the tailgate.

Top's never been off.

Dash is a bit cracked, but has a cover on it. Nevada sun will do that. :)

It passes smog. Has 16" wheels. Power windows and doors. He claims 16-18 MPG on the highway depending on load. He believes it's a 208 truck w/ 3.73 gears in the axles. One of the latches on the slider window is broken.

We have a date to look at the truck a week from Saturday. Sounds like he hasn't gotten much interest on it, which is good for me.

I need to remember to check the wiring and make sure it's all stock, or well done and not hacked. What else should I make sure to look out for?

Sounds like a strong rig with very minor issues. I wonder how that bug guard is attached? That's GOT to go, so I hope there's not holes there that I'll have to prep and prevent from rusting...
 
Most of those bug guards attached to the bottom of the hood underneath where the exterior metal folded up and under the edge and met the inside bracing metal at the edges.
I'd almost say see if someone here wants it...lord knows I don't but it is certainly retro.

Check the seat mounts for cracks, the rear tail pan for rust, climb underneath and look for missing bolts/nuts/hardware, etc. Jessie James made a pretty good "used vehicle pre purchase checklist" thread on here. Think it's stickied in the garage.



I *THINK* I have some slider window latches around here somewhere. I was looking for rear window sliders years ago and someone sent me a little baggie of them and it turned out they were for the K5 windows and not pickups. If you need one I can try and figure out what I did with them.

'88 would be a NP208. The NP241 was new in '89, not '88.

3.73 gears and the 465 would be good for a set of 33's...just sayin'.:whistle:

16's are good. I have 16x8's on mine. Means you can run all the D and E rated LT metric sized tires that are much more common now. Then again you're probably going bigger with this thing soon?

How many miles?
 
Usually they are bolted on with L brackets that go in under the hood and bolt to the bottom of it.

As far as other things to look at, if it has any external rust, you need to check the internals for rot. Specifically in the tail pan, and down in the corners just behind the lower seat belt mounts for the front seats.
 
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