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New burb, supposed dead / air-locked IP

Gunnar1971

Gunnar1971

1/2 ton status
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Oct 30, 2011
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Location
Whittier. SoCal.
Hey guys and gals, picked up an '82 K20 last night that is supposed to have a dead IP or is air-locked. When I was at the kids house, both he and his friend had old diesel benzs and there was a homemade WVO filtering station in the garage.

So his story seems to make sense as the IP doesn't like thick un-heated oil. Besides checking the fuel filter and lines for blockages are there any other things to keep an eye out for and is there a way to check the IP to see if the shaft is snapped?

The Burb has an aftermarket electric pump, but I got it home so late last night I didn't have time to pull the line and check anything yet.
 
Well, got home and after charging up the batteries and trying to start her, I could hear the start spin up, but the motor didn't turn over. So crawling underneath, I see everything is in place, but there is a metal rod / strap welded to the starter and the starter is clocked weird, ends up they busted the ear off the block and rigged it together to pass a quick visual......


So, I am on the hunt for a block.
 
I assume its an automatic?....if it were a standard,I have used an old cast iron bellhousing on one truck a friend bought with no engine,to get around having no place to bolt the usual 2 staggered bolt starter up too ,on the engine he ended up getting for it.....another guy we knew had a sweet 350 ,but the starter bolts snapped off when he came down hard on a off road bounce,and a hunk of the block busted off where the outer bolt went and was lost--he gave my friend the engine and bought another salvage yard V8...said it "had a nice cam and ran great--IF you can start it somehow!"........I remembered my 72 K's had a cast iron bellhousing for the SM465 that had a 3 bolt starter nose,and the starter bolted to the bell housing,not the engine...we found a cast iron bell housing at a junkyard ,along with the correct starter,for 75 bucks,next day we had it bolted together and running...........when the guy who gave him the engine saw it running he was kinda pissed,he said "why didn't I think of that?"....:doah:..his later 80's truck had a 4 speed,but the cast aluminum bell housing the starter bolts up just the same as the automatics did,to the engine block..
 
Well, got a motor from govliquidation.com, going to pick it up this Friday. We are going to plasti-gauge the bearings and replace them if needed, put a new balancer on it and anything else we can think of, to make it reliable.

Any suggestions on replacement of other critical / prone to fail items?
 
ARP head studs instead TTY head bolts (they are reusable), and get the ARP torque assembly lube as well as water jacket sealer. DSG stud and girdle kit. A Fluidampr harmonic balancer (its expensive), and Victor Reinz makes head gaskets from a proprietary Solicor. If you google solicor and the style of head gasket, you understand why you want to purchase it instead of the stand Felpro or ROL. (I use rockauto.com for the head gaskets, most affordable I have found)
 
Last week we dropped the freshened engine in and each day after work bolted on the accessories.

Made lots of progress this weekend. Had a problem getting her to fire, cracked the lines at the injectors and cranked her a bit. When they started to leak closed them up, cranked her and she coughed to life. Let her run for a bit and found 2 small oil leaks and that the heater core is leaking.....

As we tried to shut her down, she kept running so we kinked the fuel feed line to kill her and played Dr. Frankenstein with the IP, swapping the civilian flapper (for lack of the correct terminology) the part that is controlled by the large solenoid, in place of the military one. Fired her and she shut off like she should.

Now to fix the couple leaks, swap the heater core, do the brakes and enjoy!



Sorry for the crappy video.


 
Thanks.


Got the leaks fixed and heater core replaced, gonna do the XJ steering shaft swap and brakes in the morning.
 
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