New goodies...*pictures*

[tRustyK5]

I agree, steelies are fine. That's what I run right now and they've been on the truck for at least 5 years now. H2's I mentioned because you can usually find them for about the same money as new black steelies...

The disc swap can be done pretty cheap. Check out the vendor forum and you'll find three or four guys that sell the brackets you'll need for between $60 and $100. You can use the old calipers from the 1/2 ton front you already have which just leaves you to find some new rotors for the rear. They're not that spendy either. For the rubber lines I used some spare stock front lines out back. All told I was into my rear disc's for well under $200. If the drum brakes on that 14 need doing you'll be into those brakes for the same money or more anyways...

My advice is to do a bit of searching here on rear disc swaps before spending a cent. You'll save money.

Rene

 

[Avery4jc]

ok...I'll look into that. First I think I should pull the brakes apart and see what shape they are in. If they are ok then I will probably just stick w/ them but if they need some work then I'll look more in-depth at a disc swap.

Hey I was thinking about it and are these 3/4 ton axles the same width to where the rims bolt on as my current 1/2 ton 10b's? If so then I could just measure how much bs I have on my current rims so I know what bs to order on the new rims...
They clear perfectly fine but when I flex it (yeah hard to believe but those 9" superlift springs do actually flex) they rub a weee bit on the outside SO I was thinking that I would measure the bs on these rims and say they are 4.5" bs then I'll order 3.5"-4" bs on the new rims so that they pull in a little bit and when they flex it tucks the tire in the wheel well instead of hitting the outside of the tire. Does that sound ok?

-Avery

 

[Avery4jc]

something else I was thinking about is that now w/ these manual hubs I could technically run in 2wd Low huh? I mean it would be spinning the front drive shaft but it wouldn't be powering the front until I engaged the hubs...

that could be fun...super low gearing in low but still be in 2wd...

-Avery

 

[beater_k20]

no, that wont work. the 3/4 caliper sits a little further out, due to the bigger rotor. where your current wheels will clear, they wont on the 3/4. and you've got your backspacing mixed up. moving it out (less backspacing) will actually make your rub worse. and going to more back spacing your contact with the brakes will get worse. i'd probably stick with a 3.5" BS or so.

 

[tRustyK5]

1/2 ton rear= 65" WMS to WMS
1/2 ton front= 67.5" WMS to WMS

3/4 ton rear= 67" WMS to WMS
3/4 ton front = 69.5" WMS to WMS

Yes on the 2WD low range. I used to do that when backing up our 21 foot camper trailer. Stick it low range with the hubs unlocked and just creep it back without having to sodomize the clutch.

Rene

 

[tRustyK5]

Not to favor one company's disc brackets over anyone elses, but these look pretty budget friendly.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173137

Rene

 

[Avery4jc]

yeah, thanks Beater...I knew that I just wasn't thinking.

Those brackets look pretty nice, especially for the price.

Oh and since it looks like the 3/4 ton axles are 2" wider front and rear WMS to WMS then I'll need at least 1" more bs on each side to compensate...and that would just put them back where they are now so if I want to tuck them in more then I'll need 1"+ more bs on both sides.

So 3.5" works for you beater? How wide a tire? These suckers are wide!


-Avery

 

[tRustyK5]

I run 15x10's with 3.5" of Backspace with 39.5 x 15 x 15 TSL's. At most I think I could run 4.25" BS but it'd be a bunch more caliper grinding.

For reference...

Rene

 

[fabjunkie]

Not to favor one company's disc brackets over anyone elses, but these look pretty budget friendly.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173137

Rene

Same here. I can't speak for any of the other companies, but I got theirs and they are beefy and don't use spacers. And for the price, it helps the budget build where every penny counts. I give it a .

 

[muddybuddy]

im running 3" BS with 39.5x13.50s (measure out to 38.5x15)

 

[85mudblazin]

4.25" here

 

[Avery4jc]

ok so it looks like something like this is what I need to order...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRR%2D3425180&N=700+400292+306009+4294923105+4294793325+4294795084+4294906428+115&autoview=sku
they don't have any in 3.5" bs range...this is as close as I could find. Anyone know where I can get some 15X10 black steelies w/ 3.5" bs?

for some reason it's hard to get going with the ordering parts and stuff...I have the money in my account and I'm ready to go but I just haven't pulled the trigger.
Ok so I'm eventually going to order rims like the ones above (probably those exact ones as a matter of fact).
Then I'll order the conversion u-joint from NAPA...
and finally get the new u-bolts cut locally....I think thats all I need to get these put in.

-Avery

 

[muddybuddy]

those will work, you will just have to grind a little more.

 

[Avery4jc]

ok...
now when we say grind is it a ton or is it the difference between grinding the paint off? (not literally...just that thickness or so).

So maybe I should just order 4 of those and get them here so that I can slip them on and figure out how much I need to grind for that particular wheel.

-Avery

 

[muddybuddy]

ok...
now when we say grind is it a ton or is it the difference between grinding the paint off? (not literally...just that thickness or so).

So maybe I should just order 4 of those and get them here so that I can slip them on and figure out how much I need to grind for that particular wheel.

-Avery

thats how you gatta do it. you have no way of knowing how much to take off without having the actual wheels. i never got far enough with my 3/4ton swap to grind, i ditched the 10b for a 60 before i was able to get it in. but the 60 requires a good bit of grinding with 4" BS. with a 3/4ton i dont think you need to grind that much.

 

[Chevy305]

How about these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=USW%2D78%2D5080R&N=700+4294923107+4294923106+4294923105+4294795084+4294906428+4294793325+115&autoview=sku

I doubt you'd have to grind with these rims having 2.5 backspacing.

 

[sandawgk5]

I got 4.25 with 37X13.5 on my Dana 60. I had to grind alot but they fit up in the wheel wells real nice. I actually rub in the inside of my rear fender. Now that I saw that beadlocked H2 rim I am thinking about those. I just gotta figure out how to get me some when I need new tires

Ira

 

[Avery4jc]

How about these: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=USW%2D78%2D5080R&N=700+4294923107+4294923106+4294923105+4294795084+4294906428+4294793325+115&autoview=sku

I doubt you'd have to grind with these rims having 2.5 backspacing.

Yeah but with the combination of 2.5" bs and the fact that 3/4 ton axles are wider I know that I'd rub a ton on the outside.

I'll look around, I'm sure I can find a rim that'll work....something else nobody has mentioned is a local shop. One nice thing about Fresno is that there are literally dozens of shops for whatever you are looking for, so in this case I can think of at least 4-5 off the top of my head for rims. Maybe I could just order some though them.

I'll check it out this Saturday...first Saturday I've had off in over 3 years! Wo hoo! I think I'm going to like this new job...

-Avery

 

[beater_k20]

one thing you're failing to remember... Summit and Jegs will beat most any retail shop out there. also, if they cant install them on your truck, alot of places wont even sell them to you.

 

[sledheadak]

check the ball joints and axle ujoints before you install them.easyer to do off the truck.and can alwas add a set of bumpstops to keep the tires from hitting