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New guy here, broke my 10 bolt rear in first 6 days of ownership... recommendations?

Just checked, for sure 3.42 gears, open diff on both ends

Lift was done with all blocks, considering backing down to 4" if the tires will clear.

Frame besides the steering box was repaired what looks to be a while ago. Small leak (doesn't drip, but wet) at the power steering.
 
Since you're not a paying member, your pics need to be hosted on another site and linked. If you were a paying member you could upload them here.
 
If you're a premium member, you can hang out in the lounge. With the trolls...
 
JoshHefnerX said:
That's some bright red!
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Usually I'm a Black/white/dark grey guy, but the truck was clean.

I'll post up some driveline pics in the morning. Based on my limited research, I'm reasonably sure a new double u joint rear driveshaft will be yalls 1st recommendation.
 
I had a 4" in mine w/ the original slip yoke and it was ok. when I switched to the 14b, the shaft was effectively shorter buy an inch or 2 increasing the angles. Got a wicked vibration out of it and had to go double cardan. Straightned it out. You being at 6" already... Don't be surprised, but maybe you'll get by.
 
Big Ray said:
In case you didn't know, the factory made the 9.5" with 6 lugs if you want to stay 6 lug. A housing from a 3/4 ton square body is a straight swap.
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All 1981-1986 K20's are 8 lug. He would need a GMT400 to get a 6 lug 14bsf.

Martin
 
Austin4130 said:
Just checked, for sure 3.42 gears, open diff on both ends
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Ouch, that his a HORRIBLE gear for a tall tire behind a TH700R4. Regear to 4.56 now instead of wasting money on 3.42's, or your wife is going to be real impressed with you when you need a $1,500ish transmission.

Austin4130 said:
Lift was done with all blocks, considering backing down to 4" if the tires will clear.
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Blocks on the front axle? That's illegal in some states, and stupid in all 50.

Martin
 
Are you set on keeping the current height and tire size? If not, keep the 3.42 gears, remove the lift, sell the wheels and tires, and put a set of 31x10.5R15 tires on it. That will be the cheapest, easiest route.

Martin
 
Martin,

The front is not on blocks, sorry I was referring to the rear.

I'm going to stay away from motor mods, and not run it hard for a while so I can research the next steps for a safe, reliable rig.

I also need to work on getting new seatbelts and a family bar setup for a cage in the rear so I can bring my boy along for a ride in his carseat.

I'd like to keep the current tire size for now, as they are pretty new and I'm sure $$$. I'm searching for a 90's 6-lug 14sf now to start a slow buildup on as funds come available.
 
chalet2506 said:
Don't build the truck around the tires.
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Huh? :dunno:

That is EXACTLY what people should do.... tire size will dictate the gearing, lift height, and amount of HP/TQ to move it effectively.

If the OP doesn't actually want to run 35s, I could see stepping down in size to make the whole setup closer to "stock" configuration.

I'm a big fan of keeping things stock anyway. :)


-G
 
Build the truck around a purpose, not a tire. I agree engine, tranny, gears, lift, etc have to jive with the tire size to work properly. Problem is he bought a truck where everything doesn't jive and said he want to run the tires "at least for now". Tire size is the easiest thing to change, change it now if you don't need or want to keep running 35's in the future. Swapping lifts is fairly simple also, he could be done in a weekend and by the time he sold the tires he has now be out a lot less money and headache in the long run.


Being bogged down in my build has me wishing for while I'd have kept things simpler and just kept driving the 72. Heck, sometimes I wish I still had a stock Chalet. OP may have more time, a better skill set and more awesome tools than I have though. Either way just needs to realize what he is getting into.
 
chalet2506 said:
Build the truck around a purpose, not a tire. I agree engine, tranny, gears, lift, etc have to jive with the tire size to work properly. Problem is he bought a truck where everything doesn't jive and said he want to run the tires "at least for now". Tire size is the easiest thing to change, change it now if you don't need or want to keep running 35's in the future. Swapping lifts is fairly simple also, he could be done in a weekend and by the time he sold the tires he has now be out a lot less money and headache in the long run.


Being bogged down in my build has me wishing for while I'd have kept things simpler and just kept driving the 72. Heck, sometimes I wish I still had a stock Chalet. OP may have more time, a better skill set and more awesome tools than I have though. Either way just needs to realize what he is getting into.
Click to expand...



I'm starting to show my age..... the OP posted a pic of a truck on 35's and talked about being "85% street driven". Being on 35's USED to be a big deal.... I remember those days well. 33's were aspirational for most guys..... 35's were full-on hardcore stuff. :haha:

Times have certainly changed. Most people think nothing of using 35's as a street tire these days.


Anyway, my point was only that if the OP has the tires that he already likes and intends to use.... all other component selection should be factoring that in. Don't expect an OD transmission to hold high gear with 3.42s and 35's.... etc.
Work the math backwards from tire diameter, figure out an acceptable highway speed and RPM and gear for that.


:waytogo:


-G
 
Greg72 said:
I'm starting to show my age..... the OP posted a pic of a truck on 35's and talked about being "85% street driven". Being on 35's USED to be a big deal.... I remember those days well. 33's were aspirational for most guys..... 35's were full-on hardcore stuff. :haha:

Times have certainly changed. Most people think nothing of using 35's as a street tire these days.


Anyway, my point was only that if the OP has the tires that he already likes and intends to use.... all other component selection should be factoring that in. Don't expect an OD transmission to hold high gear with 3.42s and 35's.... etc.
Work the math backwards from tire diameter, figure out an acceptable highway speed and RPM and gear for that.


:waytogo:


-G
Click to expand...

Yep.
 
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