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new guy with a clutch question.

A

Alaska K-5

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New guy to both the forum and wrenching! I have a pretty knowledgable guy that's gonna help me install a new clutch kit in my K-5. So I go to order one and they ask if it's an 11" or 12" clutch, how do I find which size my blazer has?? It's a 77, 350 with a 4 speed(3 with granny low) and a 205 T-Case...thanks in advance for the insight, also great site! I was a lurker for awile, and finally decided to sign on....Ryan
 
crap.... I'm sorry I'm not much help here but I went through this, my K5 had a 305 and the smaller disc, I put a healthy 350 in front of it and the small clutch is still fine, someone has to know what would be in yours. I however wouldn't be surprised if its a toss up, likely it oculd be either.
 
77 350 probably has the 12". the flywheels are the same between the 11" and the 12".
i would get the 12" anyway, much more holding power
 
Sounds good, they have the 12" in stock. When I got prices they said they had two, one reman and one brand new. The reman was like 70 bucks more, is there a reason or difference between the two that would cause the reman to be more?
 
Don't buy a reman clutch. Get a new one.

A reman shouldn't be more. It should be much cheaper, although a core charge could make a reman cost more.

Make sure you turn or replace your flywheel, check your clutch boot, replace your pilot bushing with a new pilot BUSHING not bearing, and get yourself a quality name brand cluch, not some bullshit hack job parts store cheap ass special or you'll end up doing this job again, and it's not fun. If they have to order it, order one.

I've got a Zoom clutch in mine, same as you'd buy from Summit for $300 but I got it from Napa for $140. It's been great so far.

$35 might seem like too much but get your flywheel turned, trust me.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Don't buy a reman clutch. Get a new one.

A reman shouldn't be more. It should be much cheaper, although a core charge could make a reman cost more.

Make sure you turn or replace your flywheel, check your clutch boot, replace your pilot bushing with a new pilot BUSHING not bearing, and get yourself a quality name brand cluch, not some bullshit hack job parts store cheap ass special or you'll end up doing this job again, and it's not fun. If they have to order it, order one.

I've got a Zoom clutch in mine, same as you'd buy from Summit for $300 but I got it from Napa for $140. It's been great so far.

$35 might seem like too much but get your flywheel turned, trust me.

[/ QUOTE ]

That's what I thought on the reman. Getting the flywheel turned, thanks for the head up on the bushing I'll make sure to get one of those also. The clutch kit actually is a Zoom from Napa also, hopefully it will go pretty smooth. The guy helping me is a coworker who owns a auto shop, he just wasn't at work today and I wanted to go pick it up today but wasn't sure on the kit....again thanks guys for the help!
 
There are two Flywheels your engine will accept. One is for the small 10.5 and the other ,more common in trucks, is for the 11" & 12" sizes like mentioned above. Most likly you have the bigger flywheel.
I second the fact that you MUST get your flywheel turned(just like brake rotors) OR buy a new flywheel.
Good luck up there in Frozen Tundra land /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
Yeah Thursday after work I'm taking the K5 to his shop, and were pulling the tranny. Then Friday he is having the Flywheel turned by a buddy of his, should either install the clutch kit Friday nite or on Saturday....we'll see
 
My old 74 had a 11" in it, I put a 12" in it and had a $hit load of problems with it. It ate throw out bearings, the input cover (thats the one the throw out rides on) clutchs and pressure plates. The pedal was stiff and was a total pia! The best advise I can give is to take it apart and measure what you have and replace it with the same size that came out.
 
You probably got a Borg and Beck clutch...which you don't want.

You definitely want a diaphram clutch, NOT a Borg and Beck.

The size of the disc had nothing to do with pedal effort.

12" Diaphram here, even with the mech linkage, no complaints on pedal effort. I wouldn't have it any other way.
 
I'd say it's a 12" also. Pretty sure most trucks and fullsize 4x4s had the larger flywheel and clutch.

[ QUOTE ]
replace your pilot bushing with a new pilot BUSHING not bearing

[/ QUOTE ]

Just wondering on what your thoughts are between the two here. I've always used a bushing in mine, but I put a pilot bearing in another guy's truck the other day. He said he preferred using a bearing over a bushing. Not to change the subject, but was just wondering.

And I do agree... change all the components listed. I have had past clutch problems and new throwout bearings get toasted due to worn parts (worn fork and pivot stud). Every time I do a clutch now, everything gets replaced and resurfaced.
 
I prefer a bushing because it has no moving parts to fail. If you lose the bearing, not only are you going to have to pull it all back out and start over, but you're also looking at a front bearing for your trans.

Easier to just end up with a bushing and call it done
 
I always thought that too. With a bushing, you don't have to worry about the roller bearings drying up and losing grease. But he told me that alot of SM465's he's delt with have eaten bushings alot more due to some play in the input shaft. I have had a few eaten up and ovaled out bushings before, but still I would think that a bearing is more prone to failing (as you stated).
 
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