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New here...Pre-Build Info getter thread

Mr-Jack

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 7, 2010
Posts
107
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0
Location
Lacey, WA
Hey fellas, My name's Jack and this thread will hopefully point me in the direction I'll need to be in before I get back home from my deployment so I can engage on making my 85 K5 into a trail reliable rig that can also hit the road to get there and back.

My current setup:

Suspension:

85 K5 Blazer sitting on 39.5 TSL's 16.5" wheels with a great looking stance, but once you start to look at it, it's obvious that the stance just looks good, nothing is truely close to being a capable wheeling rig. The rear is setup with about 3-4" blocks with giant overloads in the spring packs...not sure what the springs are from or the size. The spring hanger is stock tho. The rear axle is a 14 bolt. I'll identify this more later. I'm pretty sure it's SWR. I don't know the gears, but was told it has an Eaton Posi unit in the diff. The front looks like it has lift springs or possibly rears off of somethng. I'll have to identify this more as well. Looks to be a HD D44 axle. I am pretty sure it has about a 2" body lift maybe 3" and the fenders are cut to clear 42's from what i was told.

Engine/Trans/Case:

400 SBC bored .030" over to 406 ci...The engine runs strong. I've roasted the tires that are on the truck. I have some pictures for identifying the transmission and t-case. I would like to believe that the guy that sold me this truck was (to put it nicely) uneducated about vehicles, cause the wiring was a spliced nightmare. I still have a lot to do, but spent a few hours re-wiring just about everything under the hood. The transmision seems to be holding up just fine, but the t-case is probably shot. Either that or i have some blown hubs. I think my 4wd is jacked up either in the T-Case or in the axle somewhere. I will dig into this more when i get home so that i can jack the truck up and try to diagnose the problem (if someone knows a sure-fire method of determining where the problem is, i'm all ears) I got stuck on a 40* bank cause the front tires wouldn't spin letting me off and the rear was on gravel so i was just digging ruts.

Interior/Exterior:

Interior is pretty rugged. Seats are beat up pretty bad console is done for, no rear bench, the dash is weather beaten and cracked, Bezel is junk, door panels are nasty, no headliner or carpet or rear side panels and probably just going to replace everything. If someone knows a good website for where to get replacement interior stuff, i'm all ears...i don't need it to cost me an arm and a leg tho. Exterior isn't too bad somebody got a little carried away with cutting the fenders and a couple small rust spots, but i'm not too worried about that right now. Someone obviously made the front bumper it can stay for now until i get rid of the body lift.

Steering:

The steering is jacked and i think it's associated to the brake problem. The rear brakes are disconnected because the previous owner said that one of the drums is siezed up. I'm going to be going with a disc conversion and have planned on it for a while, so I haven't connected them to test this, plus i haven't drove the truck much. But here's the problem i'm having with the steering. I can't turn the steering full lock not sure if the pump is going out or if there's a problem with the steering box or what, but i turn the wheel and it turns maybe 1/3 in one direction and probably close to 3/4 in the other. The power steering fluid isn't low. I turn the wheel and the tires just don't go. I believe i'll have to figure out how to diagnose this as well. I wouldn't mind doing a hydro assist steering setup tho, but i guess i should figure out if the pump is shot or if the steering box is crap. Plus when i'm going about 35 mph as i'm slowing to make a 90* right turn, the steering goes out and won't respond to wheel corrections until i let off the brakes. ??? idk what the hell is going on there. Does any of this sound like a brake booster problem or a pump problem or something...i'm kind of lost. but if you guys think i should just re-build my brake system first and then try to tackle the steering problem, i'll start there.
What I'm looking to accomplish.

1st - Get the brakes fixed. Disc Brake conversion for the rear end and re-do the front brakes. Get them fully operational. Need to know the best place to get replacement parts. I found a place that sells the disc brake calliper brackets for the rear axle. But i'll need to find someone that sells 75' Chevy Rotors and Callipers then i can piece together the brackets and plumbing from the local auto part stores. Rebuild the front brakes...(don't know if i'll need to buy new callipers and rotors as well, but we'll see.

2nd - Suspension

Rear - I'm looking at the Sky-Manufacturing shackle flip kit: http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=87 I really like this and to achieve the amount of lift to be able to stuff 40's I will determine springs and shackles either as suggested, or as i think I need. I want a flexible suspension for any terrain so a low spring rating around 390 should be good to compensate for the weight of the truck and amount of flex i'm trying to get. I'll probably /\ the rear shocks to be able to help with this as well so either a custom or fabbed up shock hoop will probably be necessary for this.

Front - will probably have to wing this after i get the rear setup. I may not have to do much to the front but i'll see what others think about it. But i like the suspension height...just want to lose the body lift

3rd - Steering if i have to i'll go with an aftermarket pulley new steering box and hopefully the shaft is good. Then find a place that either sells a kit for hydro assist or piece one together...whatever is functionally efficient and not too much money. Plus I would like to go with a hi-steer kit...i've put these together before and really like the clearance these allow for flexing.

4th - 4wd I would like to get this functioning properly...i'm not too familiar with classic Chevy T-Cases so I may not even have a problem, but the Gear illustration on the top of the shifter is missing, so I'm not sure if i have it in the right gear position when trying to engage. I could just disconnect the rear drive shaft from the yoke on the diff and play with it. (I KNOW I KNOW...rookie, but i've been building rock crawlers on toyota chasis and their running gears for years and i'm just getting into classic Chevy trucks so if possible...please cut me a little slack. I have thick skin and am a quick learner tho).

5th - Interior Would like to have a pretty decent set of panels and dash. Seats need to be re-done and probably just rhino line the whole floor. just something to prevent rust from going nuts. I"ll probably sand it down and do it properly.

I'm open to all suggestions and contructive criticism. I have thick skin and don't take things personally so if you have something to say...by all means, but hopefully that's not an invite to flaming. I'm not new to forums by any means...I've been on forums since 2000. I have administered www.fullsizechevy.com and was (still am) a Super Mod on a TG.com as well. (I'm also a member **inactively for the most part** on many other forums all related to trucks) I was referred here by John Baker out of San Antonio who used to have a couple pretty nice Blazers, so i'm here to learn. I know there have been thousands of differant builds and ways to do things...i'm sure in the toyota world, i've set that bar many differant times, but like i said. I'm new to building classic chevy trucks and am hear to learn, but would like to have a capable rig worth of just about any terrain.
Thanks, Jack
 
Here are a few pictures

Profile
0610081520a.jpg

Shot Next to my old 3/4 Ton Dodge
0610081520b.jpg

Took it out on some light trails to see what it could do
l_49b9394a5db14bf0b62f9522c5868f83.jpg

Front Axle...i believe it's a D44 - Was told it was a HD 44, is there a differance or is it all just D44? Oh and i hate the steering setup here...looks weak and flimsy
tie_rod.jpg

T-Case Stamping...probably a 205?
t-case.jpg

Shot of the rear axle/leaves and blocks
rear_pack1.jpg

406 SBC this is before i re-wired the whole engine bay...don't ask about the shut off valve on the coolant line cause i don't know why anyone would put a valve there...i left it tho I'll probably end up removing it
0626081942.jpg
 
Hi and welcome to CK5 :D

A couple of things I noticed in the pics, Your t-case is an NP208 , front springs look like 4" lift, the rear has an old school "traction lift". The rear axle is a full float 14 bolt, so that's good news. Overall it looks like you have a great starting point for a good truck.
 
Thanks Josh...good to know about the t-case...now i just have to ID my tranny and i'll be set...i don't have a good picture of it, except this one
torque_converter.jpg


I doubt that helps, but i guess i can just do some research on what the 208 hooks up to and go from there.
 
A simple start to trans ID, is, does it have overdrive or is it a 3 speed? If it has od it is most likley a th700r4 if it is a 3 speed it would have to be a th400 or a th350, if memory serves me the trans that "should" be in an 85 is a th700. That doesn't mean something else wasn't swapped in but at the very least I can tell from the pic it's an automatic ;)
 
Oh, one other thing, as far as the rear shackle flip you mentioned, check into both ORD and DIY4X they are both vendors here and their products are the best on the market. If you haven't checked their sites I highly recommend them both. just lock up your wallet ahead of time ;)
 
I'm glad we got the fact that it was an auto out of the way ;)

I honestly can't remember if it get's OD or not. i guess i will have to check on that when i get back home. It stays in the low gears pretty long. I have drove it at freeway speeds tho, just can't remember. I believe it does have OD tho.

Is ORD the same as sky-manufacturing.com?
 
holy crap...you seemed like a nice guy at first until i found these sites...you're lucky i'm in kuwait right now LOL...good links...i've already got a cart full of stuff i want ;) I'm buying a 67 chevy next week and having it shipped to my house...this could get expensive LOL
 
Oh and while your reading, search up some info on 52" spring swaps (DIY makes a kit- B-52) it is a popular swap of 52" rear springs to the front. Cheap to find spings , not to hard to install, lots of flex, approx 5" of lift, decent ride and will require steering mods but from what you said your already in that boat :wink1:.
 
Nice rig, what kind of money did it take to get it there. I had plans to put a 75 case 500 in mine thought it would give me some awsome torque.
 
Josh,

I've been looking at the 52 swaps, and looks like a pretty nice idea...was wondering what springs you used on your build and what's the spring rate on them?...cause the 8-9" lift is what i'm trying to keep mine at with maybe a 1" body space like you did...looks nice and clean. I'm probably gonna go with boomerang style shackles in the front and possibly a differant spring hanger for it tho. I like shackle hanger thru the frame like yours as well. Although i'm not doing a total restore on the frame and body like you are, I'll probably clean up the frame and under coat the body.

donsveg

i bought the truck pretty much the way it is for 3 grand about a year ago and it's just been sitting for the most part. Main reason it sat so long is i figured out the hard way that the previous owner didn't have the center bolt for the harmonic balancer installed and my crank pully passed me driving down the street. ran into a financial hardship for a while that made it impossible to work on my truck (financial hardship = fiance...which i don't have anymore) I ended up having to replace the balancer, crank is fine, but replaced the water pump cause the housing got busted pretty good when the crank pully flew out of there, all the belts and hoses. Then it wouldn't fire up, so i had to re-wire the whole engine bay...new battery and then replaced fuel lines cause they were dry-rotted. so all in all i guess i put about 500 bucks into it after i purchased it, but it's my new money pit now
 
Ok...i've been racking my brain trying to ID my front axle...i know i'm a freaking retard and all, but can someone please give me a warm fuzzy cause i'm confused. I've been looking at this CUCV Dana 60 Axle in the for sale forum and it looks pretty much like what i'm running.

Here's the link to the axle this guy is selling
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268149
And the picture of the axle:
attachment.php


And here are a few pictures of mine: I don't have a close up head on view so sorry for the lack of good pics, but can someone please ID my axle for me?
j-arm1.jpg


d-knuckle.jpg


p-knuckle.jpg


tie_rod.jpg


Much appreicated!
 
Looks like a 44 to me. Chevy 60s never came with ball joints. If your axle is an 8-lugs it's probably an HD. Looks like you already have a flat-top knucle on the passanger side too, which is what you want for cross-over steering.

*Edit* Went back and looked at your pics, and it's an 8 lug...
 
ok cool...just wanna be sure so i can beef up the shafts. I have a friend that has a machine shop so it wouldn't be too bad for getting the knuckles cut if they weren't but looks like you're right :) less work for me

oh and it is an 8 lug, but does the HD just signify it being 3/4 ton over 1/2?
 
Cool...i'm trying to think about a few things involving the current lift (combined body and suspension) versus what all i'll have to do whenever i re-do the suspension.

I am already re-doing the steering with high steer, but i'll more than likely have to wait to measure for the tie-rod and drag link lengths until after i get the suspension up the way i want it.

I was looking at a few differant options...one just doing the b-52s and 52" springs, and i've been reading about that. probably boom shackles but here's a question...with the DIY B-52 front spring hangers...how much lift over stock is that with just the hanger alone? Any? The setup wouldn't be bad, but i'm looking at possibilities of correcting a little bit of pinion angle. I may be a little off with calculations here, but i'm thinking if i go with something like this:
189_1263412137_t.jpg

This is Sky-Manufacturing 1/2-1 Ton Perch drop...it adds about 4.5" of lift in the front alone without springs. You can see in the (Tiny) picture that it comes with shackle hangers that mount under the frame. I probably won't use these tho. I Like the ORD Fush Hangers better...not that i doubt my welding skills, cause i'd probably reinforce the bolted hanger with a stitch or two, i just like the look, plus i think it is up and out of the way more. If i go with the Sky front drop hanger, 3" springs + 1.5" boomerang shackles and no body, that should be right at 9 inches of overall lift or really close. I'm just wondering if Sky-Manufacturing facters part of the 4.5" of lift from that Drop Perch combined with the under-frame hangers? And won't the added drop in the front assist in giving me a better pinion angle?

Just some design thoughts that i'm kicking around right now. I've used Sky-Manufacturing in the past on previous rigs, and love their stuff, but this is the first chevy, so i'm here for the help and opinion of the subject matter experts.

Also, by taking out the the 2-3" body lift that is currently on the truck and going with the suspension that i'm looking at, will that keep the steering components pretty much in the same spot?

Thanks
Jack
 
I was checking out your question on the front axle and I believe that you may need to find the measurement of your ring gear check out in this site coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml
 
I was checking out your question on the front axle and I believe that you may need to find the measurement of your ring gear check out in this site coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml

Front axle is definetly an 8 lug dana 44. IIRC flat top knuckles were used up untill 1976 or so.
 

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