New hydroboost and front brakes are locking up. Possible rear disk conversion also

[Cucv_M1008]

Yes but I would recommend the upgraded seals from a later 14b, much better design. PN 710568

That kit uses eldorado rear calipers, be aware that they will satisfy inspection requirements if you have them but they really don’t function all that well as a reliable parking brake.

I found this kit https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-12009957-gm-14-bolt-wheel-bearing-kit.html

 

[Wes Harden]

that doesn't list the manufacturer of the bearings and uses the old seal. If I were paying $85.00 a side I would at least want to know who's bearings

 

[Chickntrk]

For $75 on rock auto you can do the whole real axle with the upgraded seals and inner and outer bearings.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

For $75 on rock auto you can do the whole real axle with the upgraded seals and inner and outer bearings.

I think I just priced it out there also.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

For $75 on rock auto you can do the whole real axle with the upgraded seals and inner and outer bearings.

Does this look right?

 

[Chickntrk]

2081 are the old style seals, you want the 710568s

 

[Cucv_M1008]

2081 are the old style seals, you want the 710568s

What is the reason for newer seals?

 

[Wes Harden]

the new seals are 2 piece they turn on them self and not on the machined spindle surface

 

[Chickntrk]

The new style seal better and will seal up even if your spindle seal surface isn’t perfect, because they use their own seal rider instead of relying on the spindle surface.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Do I need this? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-760185

 

[Chickntrk]

I’d try it first and see what you think, I never swapped mine when I did rear disc and mine works fine

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Replace wheel studs as well?

 

[cheavyk10]

I used the RuffStuff rear brake kit with the standard 1/2 ton calipers back in 2017 on my junkyard 14bolt. I reused the bearings, seals and studs with no issues to report after many, many miles. I did replace the axle shaft seals though.

 

[sweetk30]

All my 20+ years of wrenching i have hardly ever had to change bearing on our style stuff let alone oil bath in full float rear .

If you can get name brand for a deal like r/a go for it otherwise just swap over .

 

[Chickntrk]

In line with the others I pulled my 14b from a junkyard CUCV that was rotted to nothing and I only replaced seals as well, the bearings are from 1986 as far as I know

 

[Cucv_M1008]

So looking more into the rear disk brake swap, it seems there is no viable option for an e-brake unless I do a slip yolk conversion and an e-brake system from high-angle drive line.
is this correct or would the ORD Brake line kit that @cheavyk10 told me about an option? https://www.offroaddesign.com/brake-lock-parking-brake-kit-rear.html

I need to fix my broken parking pawl in my 4l80 in the spring

 

[sweetk30]

Late model 14ff factory disc brake with park brake . Otherwise keep drum if no crazy mud play .

 

[Wes Harden]

The drive line brake on the t case yoke is certainly a solid option, and would be legal for street use. Expensive a lot of work, mods and HAD seems to be very slow full filling orders.
The hydraulic line locks will work and be easier mod, but are not legal for street cars.
I am still running the big drum brakes, maybe if I go 37 or bigger I'll consider rear disc

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Late model 14ff factory disc brake with park brake . Otherwise keep drum if no crazy mud play .

I was reading I can get a mid-2000s 14ff and swap all my cucv locker and gears into it and it will bolt in.

 

[Chickntrk]

I was reading I can get a mid-2000s 14ff and swap all my cucv locker and gears into it and it will bolt in.

Yes, and this really is the best option if you want a parking brake that works