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New K5 Blazer Owner needs help

S

SliderMSG

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San Clemente, CA
I have just bought a 72 Blazer and I want to fixer her up (acutually I want to crush cars that stop in the middle of the freeway to look at accidents). Here is what it has now 350, th350, NP? (how do I know) Danna 44 Front, 12 bolt rear, rancho 4" lift, 2" body lift, Super swamper 33". I know it's the basics but this is the first 4 wheel I've built and I'm not sure what I need. The truck is going to be a weekend warrior for rock crawling and getting dirty in the mudd but I still need it to be streetable. I am planning to put a 383 Stroker in it, keep the Th350 and I'm not sure what Transfer case to go with. The lift is farly new so I will proply use it and drop a set of 36" tires under it (maybe Parnelli Jones?). I have already gutted the interior and replaced everything, I put in a painless wiring kit added power windows and door locks, autometer gauges and I plan on putting in a set of sparco seats. I'm just looking for some advice on what transfercase, axles, transmission( if the th350 is no good ), and steering components. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from A proud new member of ColoradoK5
SliderMSG

There is a fine line between genius and insanity
 
go with a 14ff rear and a dana60 front if you can if you are going to rock crawl or wheel hard the th350 is a good auto trans take a look at the identafacation(sp?) charts to see what t-case you have but the np205 is imho the best(all gears and no chain)

oh and welcome to the addiction
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lol

wheeling videoshttp://community.webshots.com/user/ssmith6333
 
Congrats on your new K/5, welcome dude.
I'd agree with the 14 bolt full floater/ Dana 60 front...
Low gears would be good for rock crawling and mud slingin' but not TOO LOW cause you still want it streetable. Maybe like 4:10 or 4:56 with some 36" meats.
And the TH-350 ain't bad... You probally have a NP205 Transfer case...
If you get under the truck theres a little identification plate on the T-case that will say what it is. The 205's are the best.
It would be a good deal if you could find a TH-400/205 already together out of another truck.
You have a 4" suspension lift (all springs?) and a 2" body lift... Has the steering been compensated for the 4" of suspension lift like a raised pitman arm or drag link?

oh yeah... fill out more of your profile... where are you located?
my 2 cents.
 
Slider,

I think the '72 K5s only came with the NP205 with the automatic trans. On the SM465 (manual) there were two possible choices.

NP205 is strong, you won't have any problems there. Axles & U-Joints are probably the weak links.....these guys say "Just go to 14-Bolt & D60 axles" like it's so simple
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but that's a HUGE set of changes all at once......YES, it's the ultimate axle upgrade but you gotta deal with 8-bolt wheels, new driveshafts, new shock mounts, spring pad width discrepancies, etc.

If you look at the "member pages" on this site, you can probably see that axle-swap at least a dozen times in the photo albums there. It will help you appreciate what's involved in doing it.

By the way, I'm not trying to talk you out of it.....When I've got the money, that's what I'll want to do to my own '72!!!! I'm dreaming of 38's though......
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Welcome Aboard!!


-Greg72

'72 K5 Blazer - 427BB/TH350/NP205/6" Lift/35x12.50's
<font color=blue>See it here: </font color=blue><a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/albun38</a>
 
Guys thanks for all your input, I took a look at the transfercase and there seems to be some lettering on the backside but it is illegible like it has been worn off or grinded down. I'm not sure about the steering issue I does not seem to drive very well almost like it's floating and wondering, I think it maybe the ball joints and front bushings. I have bought almost every thing to rebuild the front end ( ie rotors, calipers, ball joints, bearings, hubs and bushings). Hopfully this will fix that problem. Although the steering pump makes a [censored] load of noise when I try to turn almost like its binding or working very hard to turn ( yes there is plenty of fluid and it looks to be in good shape). Is there any way to tell if it has the correct steering components for a 4" lift. I don't mean to sound like a rookie but I'm use to working on muscle cars and this is my first 4 wheel project and I am just getting the hang of the differences between them ( OK so I'm a 4 wheel rookie). Is the TH400/205 a better combo than the TH350/205 and if so why. I have been looking at some of the pictures of the axle swaps and they look pretty invovled but I think I maybe able to tackle the job (and there always the message board to help me out when in doubt), those axles are the 3/4 ton ones right. That job may have to wait until I find a garage or space to rent to work on it properly as my condo association hate me working on my car in the car port. Thanks for all your help, ohh and I'm SoCal (Irvine Area) I will update my info. Thanks again.

SliderMSG

There is a thin line between genius and insanity
 
Turbo 400 are by far stronger than the th350. The th400 is actually the strongest tranny out of all the automatics from the big three. The dana 60 and 14 FF are 1 ton axles.

86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&33"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
you said you were replacing your seats, i have been looking for a set of originals if you would be willing to sell them, email me at [email protected] if you are interested. thanks
kilomanjaro
p.s. congrats on the truck, they truely are great!!
 
Sorry man the seats are not the originals there out of some piece of crap mazda , thats why there going in the trash.
 
What kind of noise does the steering pump make? If it's a whirring/grinding noise, it is likely that the steering system hasn't been properly bled and there's still air in the steering box. That's solvable by putting the front end in the air, starting the engine, and cranking the steering all the way to one side, then to the other, then back again ad nauseum until the noise goes away. Make sure you keep the reservoir up to proper level while doing this or you're going to have to do more bleeding.

WRT the linkage and the lift, the drag link (the thing between the pittman arm and the steering arm on the driver's side knuckle) ahould be close to parallel to the ground if you have a raised steering arm. If you have an S-shaped drag link, you'll know it because of its shape (it's got two bends in it to keep the drag link ends pointed in the correct direction). Either is an acceptable method of setting up the steering on a lifted 4x4, but some people have found they get more bump-steer with one setup or the other. A friend of mine has a 4" lift and had a serious problem with bump-steer with a raised steering arm, so he changed that out to an S-shaped drag link and it is much better.
 
Steve

Thanks for the info I will look at it tomorrow. Do you know of any companys that sell aftermarket Drag links to fix this problem. I am thinking of going to AGR's new Rock Ram system and converting to a crossover system (if I can come up with the green backs) other wise I will just fix what I have now. I saw an articale on the crossover conversion here and I looks pretty effective. Any ways thanks again for the info.

SliderMSG

There is a fine line between genius and insanity
 
Welcome to the ADDICTION!!!!
Most likly you have the NP205 xfer case.
Duno about you slush box (tranny) questions I use a SM465 4spd.
Check out rockstomper.com he makes a super stout tie rod that he clames can't be bent. I haven't been able to bend mine. I even bashed it on some rocks.
Once again Welcome and I am in Central Calif. (Modesto area)

72K5
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Led Zeppelin
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Rock ON!
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