Working on mounting the mounting brackets today. I'm also finding the taillight wiring I is in need of some love.
CK5
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New life for an old GI, 1984 Chevy M1028
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
I found some wiring issues while installing the rear mounting brackets for the shelter and had to pause to deal with that. It looks like GM used Suburban wiring pigtails for the taillights instead of the regular truck bed wiring, so I'll have to track them down as I didn't have any on hand.
So I turned to installing the tailgate hardware while it was apart. I have 3 sets of the wrong year/style older hinges but none for the tailgate I'm using. So a quick trip into town to grab what looked like the right parts at autozone, nope that was a couple hours wasted. So pause on that, start trying to pull some of the dent out in the lower bed corner that affects tailgate mounting but I don't have any tools that work.
So, turn the truck around and reinstall the front bumper and brush guard. That went fairly smooth and I had all the bolts needed on hand. I'll just need to go back and paint the fastener heads that are stainless or zinc plated.
So I turned to installing the tailgate hardware while it was apart. I have 3 sets of the wrong year/style older hinges but none for the tailgate I'm using. So a quick trip into town to grab what looked like the right parts at autozone, nope that was a couple hours wasted. So pause on that, start trying to pull some of the dent out in the lower bed corner that affects tailgate mounting but I don't have any tools that work.
So, turn the truck around and reinstall the front bumper and brush guard. That went fairly smooth and I had all the bolts needed on hand. I'll just need to go back and paint the fastener heads that are stainless or zinc plated.
There is a bit of room behind the shelter once it is in the correct position. I can put some fuel cans here and possibly a small tool box under the shelter.
And today's wrecking yard haul. This should be everything needed to wrap up the back end of the truck for now.
Tailgate is operational without pulling the pushed in area near the driver side hinge. It is just adjusted all the way out and has a little outward pressure when closed. With all the hardware and rubber bumpers in place now, it should not rattle at all.
I'm happy with how this is turning out. I spent some time with the pressure washer after I finished up the tailgate and taillights. The interior of the shelter was full of cob webs and grime.
I love the picture of the dogs. Like they're trying to figure out why you're not getting in and taking them someplace. 
I do love having access to SolidWorks... I can squeeze a Twin XL sized mattress in the shelter with enough room to hang feet over the side while sitting. I am likely going to build a fold up bench that deploys to a bed on one side.
I can also squeeze a transfer tank in front of the shelter if it is 9-10" wide max and less than 20" tall under the C-channel.
I can also squeeze a transfer tank in front of the shelter if it is 9-10" wide max and less than 20" tall under the C-channel.
Since I already have a model of a 14FF, I figured I should update the model and get it in there along with 35's and some lift.
Today I pulled all the leftover and unused wiring from GEN 2 that was folded up and wrapped in electrical tape. I was also able to clean up a couple crispy wires and poor connections.
I am chasing down what is draining the batteries when it sits and after some clean up, the drain is right at 1.0 mA now. That is all coming from the alternator at pin 2. I do not think that should kill two large batteries after a week, so my next step will be to have the batteries tested. They may be drawing each other down.
I am chasing down what is draining the batteries when it sits and after some clean up, the drain is right at 1.0 mA now. That is all coming from the alternator at pin 2. I do not think that should kill two large batteries after a week, so my next step will be to have the batteries tested. They may be drawing each other down.
Last weekend, I finished up with under the hood wiring, to clean up the mess left from the 12 volt conversion. Tonight, I started on the cab harness. This has been messed with a lot more than I wanted to see and has a few melted fuse holders, but I have good options to deal with it.
Today's project: figuring out the path forward for the interior wiring harness.
After close inspection and a bit of time comparing wiring diagrams. My easy fix will be to use a civilian harness from a 1987 diesel K10 with a couple wires repinned. Everything important is pinned out the same at the bulkhead except one wire to move and one wire to remove. There are 9 missing wires as well that I can add.
After close inspection and a bit of time comparing wiring diagrams. My easy fix will be to use a civilian harness from a 1987 diesel K10 with a couple wires repinned. Everything important is pinned out the same at the bulkhead except one wire to move and one wire to remove. There are 9 missing wires as well that I can add.
- The 4 from the black out lights, I no longer have a need for but the wires already exist in the front and rear light harnesses. I plan to populate them on the interior cab for future use as off-road light circuits to trigger relays.
- Low coolant and water in fuel warning lights, those are part of a standalone harness on the civilian trucks. I can either move them under the hood or in the cab harness. Tomorrow problem to decide.
- Water in fuel sensor IGN and GND circuits are fed from the main engine harness for civilian trucks. Easy to add either way.
- 12V+ was originally a 24V+ feed for the starter relay in the cab. It is now 12V+ due to the way the engine harness was modified during the 12V conversion. I will likely populate this for powering radios in the cab.
I was able to move the whole 4 pin glow plug harness, including the wait light socket, from the CUCV harness. I added the blue wire into the standalone harness that runs from the socket to the 4 pin connector. The pink/black was sliced into the other pink/black wires already in the standalone light harness. The two grounds that went into the civilian wait light were cut off and spliced to maintain the downstream ground. Then the remaining wire from the wait light and the old socket were removed.
The pink/ black from the 4 pin connector, I added a connector and plugged it into the front of the fuse block battery terminal.
The large ignition purple/white is an ignition that remains powered while the starter is engaged. I will set that up on a relay that is triggered from the correct circuit one identify the right one. One wire goes into the 4 pin plug, another is routed into the bulkhead connector.
The ground wire from the 4 pin connector plugs into the bulkhead connector.
The pink/ black from the 4 pin connector, I added a connector and plugged it into the front of the fuse block battery terminal.
The large ignition purple/white is an ignition that remains powered while the starter is engaged. I will set that up on a relay that is triggered from the correct circuit one identify the right one. One wire goes into the 4 pin plug, another is routed into the bulkhead connector.
The ground wire from the 4 pin connector plugs into the bulkhead connector.
Tonight, I finished up with putting the main wiring harness together. Plus, I'm halfway through installing it now.
Then, Harley came to find me... I was a little late feeding him dinner.
Then, Harley came to find me... I was a little late feeding him dinner.
The interior harness is 99% done other some final connections for offroad lights and future upgrades. I also pulled apart a mint, stock cluster with 32K original miles to clean and reassemble with LED bulbs. Almost everything is working as expected after a couple of fixes.
I forgot to move the TH400 kick down wiring into the new harness and no power to the previous 24V circuit that I thought was connected to 12V but was actually not connected to anything are now fixed. The only thing left to fix in the wiring is one bad ground in a front right turn signal housing and get LED compatible flashers.
I have the grill mounted LED flood lights hooked up to the service/black out light switch. I want to grab one more main switch to replace the momentary black out drive headlight for more offroad lights.
I forgot to move the TH400 kick down wiring into the new harness and no power to the previous 24V circuit that I thought was connected to 12V but was actually not connected to anything are now fixed. The only thing left to fix in the wiring is one bad ground in a front right turn signal housing and get LED compatible flashers.
I have the grill mounted LED flood lights hooked up to the service/black out light switch. I want to grab one more main switch to replace the momentary black out drive headlight for more offroad lights.
Saturday progress.
Troubleshooting the oil pressure gauge, I found an open connection between the sender terminal and the flexible circuit board. Moving the terminal a bit and it made good connection again.
I replaced the front right turn signal pigtail and modified both fender side markers/turn to be markers only.
On the rear lights, right side taillight socket was getting bad connecting and required a little cleaning on the terminals and now it is good. However, I cannot get the flashers to flash without rear lights or with LEDs installed, even with the LED compatible flasher with a ground wire. I put in a set of normal incandescent 1157 bulbs and the flasher works perfect. So, I will be running LEDs everywhere but the taillights for now.
Now that the electrical is all sorted, I can start wrapping up the interior now.
Troubleshooting the oil pressure gauge, I found an open connection between the sender terminal and the flexible circuit board. Moving the terminal a bit and it made good connection again.
I replaced the front right turn signal pigtail and modified both fender side markers/turn to be markers only.
On the rear lights, right side taillight socket was getting bad connecting and required a little cleaning on the terminals and now it is good. However, I cannot get the flashers to flash without rear lights or with LEDs installed, even with the LED compatible flasher with a ground wire. I put in a set of normal incandescent 1157 bulbs and the flasher works perfect. So, I will be running LEDs everywhere but the taillights for now.
Now that the electrical is all sorted, I can start wrapping up the interior now.
I'm case anyone comes searching later, here is an updated bulkhead diagram with the TH400 kickdown that I missed the first time.
Today, a friend came out to take care of a few things on my tow rig and I also had him install my front, inner seat brackets while he was here. Then, I tackled the rear mounting points with rivet nuts installed through the sheetmetal and a thick fender washer. I also threw a coat of black primer on all the bare steel brackets and seat bases. I layed out the new floor mat to sit overnight, but it will need to come out for lizard skin insulation before final assembly.
That floor photo seems familiar.
More progress since I had the day off. I wrapped up fitting the floor mat and installing the seats and dash pad.
The plan was to drive it into town by 4pm for an alignment but I was hearing a noise on acceleration and took it back home.
The springs are also not enough with the shelter. Way to much body roll and sway. 4" tough country rear springs probably do not have enough capacity. I may move it to a military trailer and tow it instead. But I'll figure that out later.
The plan was to drive it into town by 4pm for an alignment but I was hearing a noise on acceleration and took it back home.
The springs are also not enough with the shelter. Way to much body roll and sway. 4" tough country rear springs probably do not have enough capacity. I may move it to a military trailer and tow it instead. But I'll figure that out later.
