Very possible.
CK5
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New life for an old GI, 1984 Chevy M1028
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
I believe the Leroy diesel oil cooler line kit eliminates the o-rings on the block side. But, they're kind of expensive.
leroydiesel.com
Leroy Diesel
My friend had an o-ring kit handy and we found the correct o-rings. I hate to spend $200 on a $0.20 problem.I believe the Leroy diesel oil cooler line kit eliminates the o-rings on the block side. But, they're kind of expensive.
Leroy Diesel
And for anyone searching for o-ring dimensions, 10.5mm ID x 2.5mm thick is the correct o-ring size.
New o-rings fixed the leak. Now I need to clean up the mess down the frame.
Took a quick road trip over the mountains for a work event. 300 miles round trip in hot weather without any major issue.
I do see the temp climb 20-30 degrees climbing the pass so I suspect my radiator is partially plugged. If I stop and idle or go down hill the temp quickly returns to normal. That said, the truck is not overheating. Normal is about 190 (confirmed with IR gun) so it is only climbing up to about 220 if my interpretation of the factory Gauge is correct.
I also noticed the voltage gauge is reading low, slightly lower with headlights on. I know the two pin connector is questionable so that will get replaced first if the voltmeter confirms the 12.5V I see in the cab. *edit* 11.8V at the battery at idle. Worse than I thought. I'll have to see if it is a connector or the new alternator is defective.
I do see the temp climb 20-30 degrees climbing the pass so I suspect my radiator is partially plugged. If I stop and idle or go down hill the temp quickly returns to normal. That said, the truck is not overheating. Normal is about 190 (confirmed with IR gun) so it is only climbing up to about 220 if my interpretation of the factory Gauge is correct.
I also noticed the voltage gauge is reading low, slightly lower with headlights on. I know the two pin connector is questionable so that will get replaced first if the voltmeter confirms the 12.5V I see in the cab. *edit* 11.8V at the battery at idle. Worse than I thought. I'll have to see if it is a connector or the new alternator is defective.
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Pulled the radiator. It doesn't look plugged, in fact it looks better inside than nearly new spare I had on the shelf. However, the side of the tank with the cap was crushed at some point. So I may as well replace it while it is out.
Odds are pushing towards a water pump issue or thermostat failed closed. I have both in order along with new hoses and belts.
Odds are pushing towards a water pump issue or thermostat failed closed. I have both in order along with new hoses and belts.
which radiator are going to use ? Of the 2 pictured, I see corrosion on the one in the middle, cores about give up
I'm either replacing the damaged tank, ordering a new one, or taking another one in to be recored. The one I had saved as a spare isn't worth running.
Made decent progress today until I didn't. One of the bolts broke that hold the thermostat housing. I felt it was twisting and broke out the torch to heat it up, but it was too late. So, I drilled it out, heated/ soaked, and hammered in an extractor but it wont budge.
The only spare crossover pipe I have was still installed on a motor under the pallet rack. And the front of the motor was at the back against the wall. So that was fun to remove... but I got it out. Tomorrow, I'll get the crossover swapped out.
The only spare crossover pipe I have was still installed on a motor under the pallet rack. And the front of the motor was at the back against the wall. So that was fun to remove... but I got it out. Tomorrow, I'll get the crossover swapped out.
Buttoning up the cooling system yesterday and today. I swapped in the spare crossover tube after a good cleaning plus new Summit radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, bets, radiator cap, etc. I even tossed in a NOS CDR valve while I was in there.
I ran into another small issue with the new summit radiator. The fittings in the oil cooler are not deep enough to bolt up the OEM cooler lines without trimming. From the o-ring shoulder to the end of the lines measure approx. L=0.40". They need to be trimmed to approx L=0.25-0.30" to fit in the radiator.
I ran into another small issue with the new summit radiator. The fittings in the oil cooler are not deep enough to bolt up the OEM cooler lines without trimming. From the o-ring shoulder to the end of the lines measure approx. L=0.40". They need to be trimmed to approx L=0.25-0.30" to fit in the radiator.
Tonight I pulled the alternator again. I bought a rebuild kit to see if I could get it working. I found the cap blown. Not sure that was the issue exactly though as it probably has more to do with radio interference than anything.
After I got it back together, it was still only running about 12.8V. Going back though my old photos from the last time I rebuilt one of these, I realized this one is missing a part. The rebuild kit came with it but I didn't install it since the alternator did not have one to begin with. I did not know where it went until my old alternator rebuild pics.
After I got it back together, it was still only running about 12.8V. Going back though my old photos from the last time I rebuilt one of these, I realized this one is missing a part. The rebuild kit came with it but I didn't install it since the alternator did not have one to begin with. I did not know where it went until my old alternator rebuild pics.
Looks like a resistor. Did you ohm the capacitor ?
Installing the resistor didn't fix anything over the weekend so this evening I pulled the alternator and started testing the rotor and stator. Turns out the rotor chill was open circuit. So I swapped in a used one from one of the original alternators and I'm now charging at 14.6 VDC.
View attachment 20240828_181833.mp4
View attachment 20240828_181833.mp4
Running errands.
I had to pull the heater box to remove a mouse house. But now I can run the heater without fluff flying out of the vents.
It was a little frosty this morning and hard to start. I suspected glow plugs need to be replaced as it has started taking longer to start on mild days, this definitely confirms those suspicions.
The heater now has plenty of air flow but not enough heat. I may need to cover the radiator. I didn't have that problem with the old, half plugged radiator.
The heater now has plenty of air flow but not enough heat. I may need to cover the radiator. I didn't have that problem with the old, half plugged radiator.
I just swapped glow plugs too, only three out of the eight were good! 60G's went back in.
It was your post that reminded me to order a couple sets and the removal tool. Then they were delayed leaving Texas due to the snow down there.
I would be driving this today other than I'm waiting on new glowplugs and I don't really have anywhere I need to go today.
