I "borrowed" this from another site, lots of good info, similar to what I went thru on my old TPI Camaro...
How to adjust TPS and IAC on a Chevy TBI
Ok, this information was very handy when I first bought my truck and it was running like crap. After reading this info, I found that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) was bad and replaced it with a new adjustable one. The original author of this is Jay Vessels.
Tools needed:
* Torx bits or drivers (T-10, T-15, maybe more depending on the application)
* Voltmeter (digital is best, but a really accurate analog will work)
* Tachometer (the one in the vehicle will work fine if equipped)
* Wrenches and an awl (various sizes, only if the idle speed hasn’t ever been set)
Theory of Operation – (lengthy)
A common myth about fuel injected vehicles is that the idle speed is fixed and cannot be adjusted. This isn’t quite true; there is a setting. It's called minimum air, which is adjustable on TBI and MPFI vehicles. This setting sets the lowest-possible idle speed for the vehicle. The ECM uses the IAC (idle air controller) to raise the idle speed from this adjustment. So, while the exact idle speed isn’t really adjustable, the minimum idle speed is.
Why adjust the idle speed? Isn’t the ECM supposed to do that? Yes it does and it does do a good job, but has to have a starting point. That starting point is called minimum air, or the smallest amount of air allowed to enter the engine with the throttle closed. The ECM can only add air to that minimum setting. If that setting is too high, the ECM can’t slow the engine down to an acceptable idle. If the setting is too low, the ECM may not be able to keep the engine running under certain conditions.
Another reason to adjust minimum air is if there has been some repairs to the fuel system. If the throttle body has been removed (i.e. rebuilt or cleaned) or the TPS (throttle position sensor) has been replaced or otherwise disturbed (i.e. loosened the mounting screws unintentionally -- it happens) then minimum air should be adjusted. Any changes that could affect idle speed or idle quality, like performance upgrades or replacing leaking vacuum lines, should be followed by setting minimum air.
This adjustment, once learned, only takes a few minutes. It rarely has to be adjusted, but it takes so little time to check (and adjust, if needed) that there’s no reason not to do so.
Checking & Adjustment Instructions
To establish minimum air, the idle speed must be set first. The idle speed screw is sealed with a cap from the factory. This should be removed by removing the throttle body and using an awl to pry the plug off. If this seems scary, have it done. It’s not difficult but it’s not worth risking damage to the throttle body or human flesh to remove the plug. Once the plug has been removed, reinstall the throttle body.
Assuming the idle speed screw is accessible and the throttle body is installed, jumper pins A&B on the ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link) connector under the dash. Pins A&B are on the upper-right-hand side. These are the same two pins to jumper to read codes from the ECM. Now turn the key on (the Check Engine light should be lit) and leave the key on for at least 30 seconds. The computer will extend the IAC plunger all the way out to allow adjustment of the idle speed.
After the 30 second wait, unplug the IAC (square 4-pin connector on the throttle body) WHILE THE KEY IS STILL ON. This prevents the ECM from adjusting the idle speed while you make your adjustments.
Block the drive wheels, set the emergency brake, and start the engine. Set the idle speed by adjusting the idle speed screw. The engine should be at operating temperature for this. The exact setting is on the emissions label on the radiator shroud, but in general, the idle speed should be about 500 RPM in Drive, 700 in Park / Neutral, or if you have a manual transmission, somewhere between 600-800 RPM. Remember that the truck is running during this adjustment, so stay clear of the fan, and make sure it can’t roll or otherwise be put into gear while this is done.
Once the minimum idle speed is set, turn the engine off, reconnect the IAC, and remove the jumper from the ALDL connector. The TPS minimum voltage must now be set. Turning the idle-speed screw may have moved the TPS idle voltage away from the specification, so it should be adjusted next.
Connect a voltmeter between pins A (usually dark blue) and B (usually black, or black/pink) of the TPS, and turn the key on. Don’t start the engine. Loosen the two torx screws holding the TPS in place, but don’t remove them. Rotate the TPS until the voltmeter reads between 0.45 and 0.55 volts, with 0.50 being ideal. Tighten the mounting screws (carefully, they thread into soft aluminum) and re-check the voltage to make sure it’s still within range.
That’s it. After the procedure is done once, it’s easy to remember and do. I hope this helps.
I'd probably still end up going with a big block, but it would be nice to be able drive now and then while gathering up some parts instead of it just sitting there.
Anyways, after I pull the paper clip out and start it back up it runs like crap still. If I could pinpoint what it is and fix it for no money or cheap I'm all for it. I could probably even get a crappy video of how it's acting if that would help...it has open headers on it right now so my nieghbors will hate me, but oh well I'm not too fond of them either.
thank goodness it's the 4 wheeled variety not 2 legged or I'd be screwed...my civic doesn't even have a rear seat and wouldn't fit 4 kids even if it did.
