rampage
3/4 ton status
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New oil filter comparison video
- Thread starter dyeager535
- Start date
I wish he went a step further and see just how good the filtration is on each. Not many filters either. Theres another good filter test here.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/e...ilter-testing-results-thread-4g63t-4b11t.html
AMSOIL filters are a top tier filter if you don't mind the cost. Royal Purple seems to be on par with the AMSOIL filters and if you can get them for cheaper, you may want to consider swapping out your AMSOIL filter for a Royal Purple. Purolator is a very strong second, if you don't mind the shoddy construction. Stay away from DENSO if you can help it and WIX is a great middle of the road filter if you want reasonable price, very good filtration, respectable surface area and quality construction.
Quote-
Conclusion:
I'll start by saying that I'm pretty happy I did this, as it validates quite a few of my assumptions surrounding filtration efficiency and just who was making filters for whom. AMSOIL is worth the money, so all you guys slanging AMSOIL (apagan01, I'm looking at you) keep on, keepin' on. The Royal Purple filter is also a synthetic, so if you can source one for less than the current AMSOIL filter, you may want to consider it.
I was surprised by just how good the Purolator filter actually was. Being a cellulose + synthetic blend would account for it's filtering efficiency. I think the quality of filtration combined with the surface area of the Purolator filter and the price makes it a really good option for sure. I will say that the quality of construction of the Purolator was quite poor, even the filter arrived with a huge dent in the side. Once I cut it open, I could see just how thin the housing was. Since the filters in the 4G63 sit so low to the ground, all it would take to pop that filter would be a single rock bouncing off the ground if you're not running an under tray.
I was disappointed to see the Mobil 1 filter performing as poorly as a cellulose filter (K&N comes to mind, since they're both made by Champion Laboratories), even though it is also a synthetic blend similar to the Purolator. I also found that the filter construction from all of the Champion Laboratories were pretty poor. I'm saddened by the fact that AMSOIL switched to them to build their current Ea15k20, as that's the filter they now stock.
If you can get your hands on an Ea046, that's the filter to get. The lack of surface area in the Ea046 is a bummer, but the filtration quality makes it totally worth it.
I had expected the DENSO to perform poorly and it didn't disappoint. The construction of the filter felt pretty decent, but looking at the internals and the filter design lead me to believe that it wasn't going to do well. I will say that having all of that surface area will allow you to catch quite a bit of contaminants, but what good will that do if it's only catching particulates over 30μm?
The other filters I was pulling for were just average. The WIX, Donaldson and Hastings seem to be sort of middle of the road filters that will do the job just fine if you're okay with settling for average. The surface area of the WIX and Hastings beat out the Donaldson and the higher flow rate of the WIX beats out the Hastings. The quality of construction of all three is top notch. These filters should be fine for your average daily driven car that would see regular oil change intervals.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/e...ilter-testing-results-thread-4g63t-4b11t.html
AMSOIL filters are a top tier filter if you don't mind the cost. Royal Purple seems to be on par with the AMSOIL filters and if you can get them for cheaper, you may want to consider swapping out your AMSOIL filter for a Royal Purple. Purolator is a very strong second, if you don't mind the shoddy construction. Stay away from DENSO if you can help it and WIX is a great middle of the road filter if you want reasonable price, very good filtration, respectable surface area and quality construction.
Quote-
Conclusion:
I'll start by saying that I'm pretty happy I did this, as it validates quite a few of my assumptions surrounding filtration efficiency and just who was making filters for whom. AMSOIL is worth the money, so all you guys slanging AMSOIL (apagan01, I'm looking at you) keep on, keepin' on. The Royal Purple filter is also a synthetic, so if you can source one for less than the current AMSOIL filter, you may want to consider it.
I was surprised by just how good the Purolator filter actually was. Being a cellulose + synthetic blend would account for it's filtering efficiency. I think the quality of filtration combined with the surface area of the Purolator filter and the price makes it a really good option for sure. I will say that the quality of construction of the Purolator was quite poor, even the filter arrived with a huge dent in the side. Once I cut it open, I could see just how thin the housing was. Since the filters in the 4G63 sit so low to the ground, all it would take to pop that filter would be a single rock bouncing off the ground if you're not running an under tray.
I was disappointed to see the Mobil 1 filter performing as poorly as a cellulose filter (K&N comes to mind, since they're both made by Champion Laboratories), even though it is also a synthetic blend similar to the Purolator. I also found that the filter construction from all of the Champion Laboratories were pretty poor. I'm saddened by the fact that AMSOIL switched to them to build their current Ea15k20, as that's the filter they now stock.
I had expected the DENSO to perform poorly and it didn't disappoint. The construction of the filter felt pretty decent, but looking at the internals and the filter design lead me to believe that it wasn't going to do well. I will say that having all of that surface area will allow you to catch quite a bit of contaminants, but what good will that do if it's only catching particulates over 30μm?
The other filters I was pulling for were just average. The WIX, Donaldson and Hastings seem to be sort of middle of the road filters that will do the job just fine if you're okay with settling for average. The surface area of the WIX and Hastings beat out the Donaldson and the higher flow rate of the WIX beats out the Hastings. The quality of construction of all three is top notch. These filters should be fine for your average daily driven car that would see regular oil change intervals.
Last edited:
OK....update with pics as promised. And I went over the regular interval (3000-4000 miles) that I usually change the oil. This oil and filter change is at 5200 miles. This is on the 2006 Silverado Z71 with 199,713 miles.
The ends are not metal but some type of cardboard/paper. There are no missing pieces of this material. The filter material is fairly stiff and not flimsy like some of the videos show for the Extra Guard. Everything actually looks pretty good for having 5200 miles through it. You can see the small microns of sludge and engine wear at the bottom of the filter can. I would have to believe that this is what the filter keeps out of the motor as it cycles through. I use Castrol GTX High Milage 5W30 oil. I'm happy with the results and will continue to buy the Fram Tough Guard filter.
Top of the filter
Bottom of the filter
The ends are not metal but some type of cardboard/paper. There are no missing pieces of this material. The filter material is fairly stiff and not flimsy like some of the videos show for the Extra Guard. Everything actually looks pretty good for having 5200 miles through it. You can see the small microns of sludge and engine wear at the bottom of the filter can. I would have to believe that this is what the filter keeps out of the motor as it cycles through. I use Castrol GTX High Milage 5W30 oil. I'm happy with the results and will continue to buy the Fram Tough Guard filter.
Top of the filter
Bottom of the filter
rampage
3/4 ton status
Just out of curiosity, do we know if any of these filter cases were magnetized? And would it do any good to place a magnet on the filter itself?
my house water has a good amount of iron rust from the well case pipe i get in my primary filter . its a clear body see threw design . for over a year i had a magnet that was out of a motor half round clamped to the filter body . every time i changed the filter i got NOTHING extra stuck to the side were the magnet was .
my house flow is prob 2-5 gpm average use for a hose on at 50psi average psi . . . . sbc 51061 filter wix is rated for 9-11 gpm and can see over 80psi on cold starts thick oil . so even at say 40-50 psi thick oil flow test you would cycle more oil past the magnet than my house water filter see's and it got nothing .
and i think if you need to catch metal junk in the filter that much you got problems a magnet wont fix .
i do believe it works in a system fully built for it . but if retro fitting it like a clamp on i dont see a difference .
rampage
3/4 ton status
Here’s where I see a problem with the comparison though. Plastic is nonferrous. And magnets lose their pull very rapidly the farther you get from it (IIRC it’s 1/r^2). So the thickness of the plastic coupled with magnets that aren’t that strong to begin with and the flow of the water might be enough to not capture any particles. Whereas a metal filter will become magnetized itself in the presence of a magnetic field, so there wouldn’t be any distance from the magnetic source and the medium you’re trying to capture particles from. And if you use neodymium magnets that are much more powerful than anything you’ll find in an electric motor (brushless motors excluded) then I see the results being different.
But I do agree, there shouldn’t be any significant metal shavings in the oil. But then again, why do engines lose compression (rings wearing out)? What do filters capture in them, is it just sludge?
my magnet i used is 1 huge sucker with a lot of pull . if its stuck to metal it takes a lot to break its pull . but yes i see your point on plastic loosing pull power .
rampage
3/4 ton status
No smiley face in reply box. Could this be because I’m on either an IPAD or iPhone? Again, sorry for getting off topic. I just want access to the emojis
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I run little magnets on all my stuff. Maybe they don't do shit.. no worse then not having one..... But maybe they do...
rampage
3/4 ton status
This is from my IPhone.
I've put speaker magnets on oil filters,and gas tanks on old vehicles and didn't have to change another gas filter for months to years after having one plug with rusty silt 3-4 times in short order..
Not sure if the oil filter magnet helps any,but I've used magnetic drain plugs in the past,they always came out with some fuzzy steel stuck to them (probably cam lobes!)..
It appears steel is highly magnetic until it turns to rust,and it would take some time for rust to form in a crankcase or transmission,so that accounts for why they put magnets in automatic tranny pans and differentials,they catch the steel before it has time to turn rusty..
I find it interesting that copper and aluminum are somewhat magnetic,after being taught only ferrous metals were!..but you need a super strong magnet to see any results..
Not sure if the oil filter magnet helps any,but I've used magnetic drain plugs in the past,they always came out with some fuzzy steel stuck to them (probably cam lobes!)..
It appears steel is highly magnetic until it turns to rust,and it would take some time for rust to form in a crankcase or transmission,so that accounts for why they put magnets in automatic tranny pans and differentials,they catch the steel before it has time to turn rusty..
I find it interesting that copper and aluminum are somewhat magnetic,after being taught only ferrous metals were!..but you need a super strong magnet to see any results..
