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New owner of 91 K5

MattNKY91

MattNKY91

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Joined
Dec 29, 2010
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Location
Crittenden, KY
Hey Guys! I just purchased my membership today after scrolling through the forums for a couple weeks. About a month ago I purchased a 91 K5 Blazer with the 5.7L. This is my first K5 so I have a lot of questions that I am sure may have already been asked. I searched through a lot of post and still didn't find some of the answers I needed. For the most part I believe my truck is stock except for 33 inch tires and having about a 3 inch suspension lift. Anyways here are some of my problems:
  • My 4wd acts like it doesnt engage when put in 4x4. I have auto hubs and the front driveshaft spins but it is like the front is locked. Any helpful things for me to look for to pinpoint the issue? I am planning on putting some manual hubs on pretty soon.​
  • My second problem is with my rear tailpan being just about completely rusted out to the point that the part where my trailgate hinge is attached to is completely broke off. How hard of a job is it to weld in a new one?​
I have plenty more questions but I wont bug yall with them just yet. Thank you for reading through my post and any helpful information that you may have.​
 
MattNKY91 said:
My 4wd acts like it doesnt engage when put in 4x4. I have auto hubs and the front driveshaft spins but it is like the front is locked. Any helpful things for me to look for to pinpoint the issue? I am planning on putting some manual hubs on pretty soon.

Deffently get a set of manual hubs. Auto lockouts are junk. Most likely that is your problem. If there was something wrong with your transfer case it would prolly be making some noise. What excatly do you mean by the front is locked?
  • My second problem is with my rear tailpan being just about completely rusted out to the point that the part where my trailgate hinge is attached to is completely broke off. How hard of a job is it to weld in a new one?​
Click to expand...
  • ​
It can be done, but it would be a decent amount of work. You would need to remove the tailgate. Cut out all rusted/rotten metal, build new tailgate hinge mounts, make sure thay are lined up in the propper location so that the tailgate looks right on the truck & works. Cut new sheetmetal from a pattern made from the tailpan you originally removed, & weld that in. Paint & re-install tailgate.​
 
you can also purchase many of the replacement sheetmetal pieces from LmcTruck.com. They have the rear floors pans, hinges, support beam, and side supports as I recall.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I already have a bunch of stuff circled in my LMC catalog. My cousin is laid off currently and is a welder/sheet metal guy so I will put him to work. Also, picking up a rear window from the junkyard tomorrow. Is there anything that I should replace before putting it in? Mine didnt have a window when I purchased it. The retard thought it would be alright to take a piece of plexiglass and sheet metal screws all the top of tailgate then up around the top of cap.
 
Looks like some post are missing. I guess it is due to the server being down.. I purchased my sash and filler from LMC today.. It cost $90 and will be here in 3-7 buisness days
 
May have been said in the missing posts but, if not then Welcome to the best possible site on the web for someone new to the K5 world.
 
Yeah, some posts are missing. I made mention to buy the rubber seat that fits in between the sash and the glass, then glue it in. Someone posted the right kind of glue to use but I don't remember it now... report it please! :)

Were you also having problems with the glass not going up? Just use a wire tap to join the two wires going to the top left of the tailgate - the safety switch - which is probably dead. That prevents it from going up with the tailgate open.
 
Yea I was having that problem but I think it was tRusty or someone mentioned that if your tailgate wasnt closed all the way it is made to go down only. My left side of tailgate is being very stubborn since the hinges are rusted completely off the tailpin. I went ahead and bought the filler since it was only $6
 
Going to experiment with taking the autohubs off tomorrow. Cleaning and regreasing everything until I can get my manual lockers. Any tips on cleaning?
 
throw them in the trash and clean/degrease your hands of those auto junkers. any internal dana 44 hub will work. ford-jeep-chev- it doesnt matter. they should be easy to find in the junkyard
 
1BEATK5 said:
throw them in the trash and clean/degrease your hands of those auto junkers. any internal dana 44 hub will work. ford-jeep-chev- it doesnt matter. they should be easy to find in the junkyard
Click to expand...

What he said they are junk I messed with mine for a bit, they worked fine for on road travel but a complete fail when off road
 
Toss the auto hubs as far as you can and then go pick them up and do it again.

JUNK

A fresh set of Warn Hubs will bolt right on with zero issues.

You will find the engagement TANG thats inside the hub under the bearing nut, just leave it there, it wont hurt anything.

Just remove the snap ring from the end of the axle, slide off the old stuff, replace with the Warn Hub and reinstall the snap ring then the outer cap assembly.

You may find a set of the factory hubs at the bone yard, these are fine too.

The autos were a feeble attempt to make 4x4's a tad more palatable to those who find getting out to twist the hubs, somehow personally degrading.

My self I have a set of Warns on my 89 K5 and getting out to lock them in makes me feel very good, knowing that the front end is going to work whn I yank on the lever :laugh::waytogo:

The autos also have a nasty habit of engaging at highway speed when they get old and tired.

Have one side engage, then spin the diff, then the other one engages and it can get rather unerving as the front end whirs, buzzes and jerks.

This has happened to me on the freeway at 70 MPH and believe me you dont want to do this.

Snowy
 
Yeah, I wrote a somewhat lengthy reply regarding tailgates and tailgate glass. <sigh>

The short version is skip the rubber sash thing, fill the steel track with construction adhesive and push the glass itself into it and let it set up. I used PL400 and it worked great. You do have to be 100% sure you have the glass centered properly, and facing the right way. The track is not symmetrical.

Rene
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. I am going to wait till next weekend to get involved on the hubs probably. Will I have to rent a special tool from Autozone to remove them? On another side note my drivers side window switch doesnt want to work on either side. It worked a couple weeks ago for the drivers side but whoever had it before had msc. ends on the wires instead of picking up the regular kind. So I put new ends on but it still isnt working. Could it be a fuse?

Then on another side note lol.. I jacked up the front end and both front tires have a lot of wiggle. Thinking I need to go ahead and get wheel bearings and everything else when I do the Hubs. They have play with the top and bottom wiggling forward and then the side wiggling back and forth also.
 
Well ended up having to drive it today with no back window. It was a pretty cold ride to work in 30 degree weather!
 
It's a bit hack, but if you have glass even without a track you can jam a couple of 2x4's under it to hold it up in the closed position. It's a good temp solution in this weather.

Rene
 
sounds like good temp fix to me. I received my parts from LMC today. Plan on putting them on tomorrow if the wife doesn't have a long list of stuff to do!
 
Well hit a snag putting my window in. Looks like I may be missing some additional stuff. Looks like I am missing my Cam channels doh!!
 
Hey guys! I have been busy with two sick babies at home lately so my truck has been on the back burner. It looks like I need to order the two cam channels and the bolts. Everything else looks to be in place on the inside of the window. My question is how do the cam channels attach to the regulator? It looks like it just has the 2 "roller rivets"
 
keep up the progress, sounds like a heck of a project you're working on.

Can't help you with the rear glass, but the tire wobbles sound more like tierods and balljoints to me, not so much bearings, though those should be checked anyway.
 
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