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New steering box now hard to turn EDIT 10/9

MTBLAZER89

MTBLAZER89

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I replaced my steering gear box today. I bled it for about 15 minutes. Its smooth all the way through lock to lock, but it just takes more effort to turn than it used to. Its not difficult just quite a bit stiffer than the old box.

Any ideas?

Is this a symptom of air?
 
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It might be a standard ratio box instead of a variable ratio box. Also does this new box have the same amount of turns lock to lock?
 
It actually seems to have less turns lock to lock, but not sure. The pump is full and not making any noise and the bubbles have calmed down.

It doesnt seem bad..just different. I am going to drive it wheeling tomorrow so we'll see how it is off road.
 
Ok just got back from wheeling. Its pretty hard to turn off road, and impossible at some points when the suspension is flexed hard. I had to feather the throttle at some points to get the wheels to move. I also noticed some pretty significant bumpsteer on and off road that was never there before:confused:

Nothing has changed except for the box and the weld in kit.

The only thing that was loosened was the pitman arm TRE and the pitman arm itself from one box to the other.

I did retighten all my front end shackle and spring eye bolts, but thats it.

Bad Box?
Bad Pump?
Mechanical?
 
Does the lower plate of the weld-in kit contact the pitman arm anywhere in its rotation? Is this is the V3500 (assuming you don't have crossover on that one) or the K5 (assuming you do have crossover on that one).

Also did the steering shaft (from the column) get beat up at all during the box swap? Are the bearing at the end of the column and the rag joint/XK shaft OK?

Is the new box adjustment (on top) right?
 
Its on the Blazer with crossover steering. There is definetly no contact between the pitman and the frame repair. The rag joint looks great, and the steering shaft was not touched during the install short of removing the bolts from the rag joint.

Not sure if the box is adjusted right. Its a new Autozone box.
 
The reason I asked about pitman arm to weld-in brace clearance is the mine was real close, but I haven't gone crossover... yet. The 4WD pitman arm is much bigger where it attaches to the sector shaft. My steering wanders (a little) more after the weld-in brace. I have yet to climb under and see why, but I'm guessing it is either the box adjustment or the bearing in the end of the steering column.

Get a buddy to turn the steering wheel while you watch the pitman arm and make sure it moves when the steering wheel moves (no delay). Look for any frame flex while you are at it in case the weld-in brace has issues. That is my plan anyway. :dunno:
 
The steering is all tight. I don't have any slop before of after the new box. Its just significantly harder to turn and now I have bumpsteer pretty bad too.
 
I can see something in the box making it harder to turn (maybe bad internal seals bleeding off pressure??), but I don't see the box increasing bumpsteer. :dunno:
 
When I replaced my steering box I got the same problem. Ended up being air in the box. I bleed it pretty well the first time and since then have done it at least 3 more times. I still end up with little bubbles now and again but the steering is getting easier. Of course the box now leaks like crazy after a hard summer of wheeling. The input seal blew out on the first run through Last Chance Canyon.
 
The obvious is a bad box. My brother just changed the box on an 06 Chevy 2500. The first one from Autozone had a clunk in it. The second was good. He is good at changing them now.

I was told the 15% of rebuilds are bad.
 
Jason4x4 said:
Possible bad pump, maybe ran dry too long after box swap.
Click to expand...

I thought of that, but I did top off the pump before I ever started the motor. It whined for a few seconds. I shut the motor off and topped it off again.

The obvious is a bad box. My brother just changed the box on an 06 Chevy 2500. The first one from Autozone had a clunk in it. The second was good. He is good at changing them now.

I was told the 15% of rebuilds are bad.
Click to expand...

Yeah getting a new box costs me nothing but some time and some fluid. I'll try a new box if the second round of bleeding doesnt change anything.
 
When bleeding the system the wheels should be off the ground and you should only need to cycle the steering lock to lock about 20 times to remove all air in the system.
 
When you b led the system did you do it with both front wheels off the ground?
It takes quite a few lock to lock cycles at aprox 1500 engine rpm to get all the air out of the system.
 
Ok in the middle of putting the second new box on. I'll update this post again when I'm done.
 
Steering box has been replaced and the same problem exists. I am guessing its the pump or the adjustment on these boxes from the rebuilder :confused:
 
im not sure if someone mention it already but u seem to realize it also, i would guess the adjustment on top of the box. they might be meshing too close.
 
shaun89 said:
im not sure if someone mention it already but u seem to realize it also, i would guess the adjustment on top of the box. they might be meshing too close.
Click to expand...

Had that same problem with mine. but he has switched boxes and has the same problem. it would be odd that 2 boxes would be adjusted too tight.
 
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